（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十二部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订 

Meat, eggs, milk and cheese

肉、鸡蛋、牛奶和奶酪

 Once I trod the Roman road in hunger and thirst. On that road a smell of roast meat assailed my nostrils, stirred up my entrails, reawoke my hunger. I followed the smell and landed in a butcher's shop, and found roast meat turning on a big spit. I began to sweettalk the shop-woman:

      'Mistress, lady, madame fa charcutiere, honoured helpmeet of the master-butcher, give me a little offal, a tiny bit of udder, a slice of your generous spitted meat, a goaty slice from the tough side, the skinny side, the lean side ...

       I saw the lovely woman; I saw the lovely meat; I did not know that my attempt was doomed and my arts fruitless; I did not know that she was planning treachery. She took me by the hand, she fetched me a stool, she laid a table for me and said,

      'Sit down, effendi, I sit down, bachelor of law, sit down, doctor of philosophy ... '

          有一次，我在饥渴中走在罗马路上。在路上，一股烤肉的味道扑鼻而来，搅动着我的内脏，唤醒了我的饥饿感。我顺着气味来到一家肉店，发现烤肉冒出香气。我开始和女店员交谈：

          “女主人，女士，熟肉小姐，屠夫大师的荣幸助手，给我一点内脏，一点乳扇，一片你慷慨施舍的肉，一块山羊肉，从坚硬的一面，瘦的一面， 瘦边...

           我看见了那个可爱的女人； 我看到了可爱的肉； 我不知道我的尝试注定要失败，我的艺术没有结果； 我不知道她在策划什么。 她拉着我的手，给我拿来一张凳子，给我摆了一张桌子，然后说：

           “坐下，effendi，我坐下，法学士，坐下，哲学博士……”

She laid the table for me, she gave me a napkin, she set me a plate laden with sliced meat. I sent down the first mouthful, and the second, and the third, and I was just bending my head to cut a fourth piece when suddenly (where could she have hidden the smelly, shitty missile?) she threw a sausage at my head and said,

      ‘Eat that, handsome master, bachelor of law, master of philosophy, sluicer of offal and entrails! Why don't you drink your own ink rather than eat our humble meat?’

          她为我铺好桌子，递给我一张餐巾纸，给我端了一个装满肉片的盘子。 我吃了第一口，第二口，第三口，我正低着头切第四块，突然（她把臭臭的东西藏在哪里？）她把一根香肠扔到我的头上，然后说，

           ‘吃那个，英俊的大师，法律学士，哲学大师，内脏和内脏的清理者！ 你为什么不喝你自己的墨水而不是吃我们不起眼的肉呢？

We have seen the anxiety expressed in the Book of the Eparch that the butchers of Constantinople should get fresh meat at the best price. We shall see the variety of domesticated animals that came to be sold, some of them from great distances, at the annual fairs at Constantinople and Thessalonica. The author of the fourth Prodromic Poem gives us the consumer's perspective, and tells us that the hot meat shops of the city already offered slices of meat roasting on a spit - something not far different from souvlaki - to those who could face the shopkeeper's biting wit.

          我们已经看到《纪元之书》中表达的焦虑，即君士坦丁堡的屠夫应该以最优惠的价格获得新鲜肉类。 我们将在君士坦丁堡和塞萨洛尼卡的年度集市上看到出售的各种驯养动物，其中一些来自很远的地方。 第四首《前奏诗》的作者给了我们消费者的视角，告诉我们城里的热肉店已经为那些可能面对店主尖酸刻薄的人提供了烤肉片——这和烤肉串没什么两样。 .

The dietary texts show that ox, buffalo, goat, sheep and pig all provided meat for Constantino po Ii tans to eat. They show also that finer distinctions were normally made - veal is distinguished from beef; male and female goat are distinguished from one another (female is nearly always preferred, and male was often considered too rank to eat) and from kid. In one text, the best mutton or lamb is said to come from one-year-old castrated males. By contrast, the dietary texts say rather little about everyday things like sausages, which seem to belong to less serious literature such as popular verse and saints' lives. We have to learn the Greek for a 'string of sausages', seira salsikion, from the Lift of St Simeon Salos: in one of the more engaging anecdotes of this lively life, the saint is seen 'taking a string of sausages around his neck, and holding mustard in his left hand, and so dipping them and eating them'. Yes, the dietary texts do confirm that mustard went well with pork. This meat 'produces an excess of moisture and phlegm in the body, but its moisture is neutralized' if eaten with mustard. Another meat preparation that was familiar in Constantinople, yet seldom occurs in the texts, is apokti, cured dried meat. This happens to be mentioned in the meticulous Book of Ceremonies of Constantine Porphyrogennetus. Offal is catalogued assiduously by the dietary authors; head, brain, bone marrow, lung, liver and heart are all evaluated and are in general classed as nourishing, especially liver. Brain, however, is 'emetic' (some modern readers might agree) and should therefore be eaten with pepper or mustard. Even spleen is listed, though not favoured.

          饮食文本显示，牛、水牛、山羊、绵羊和猪都是君士坦丁·波伊坦人菜谱上的肉类。这表明，人们通常会做出更精细的区分——小牛肉与牛肉有区别；公山羊和母山羊是有区别的（母山羊几乎总是首选，公山羊经常被认为等级太高而不能吃）和小山羊。在一篇文章中，据说最好的羊肉或羊肉来自一岁大的阉割公羊。 相比之下，饮食文本很少提及香肠等日常用品，它们似乎属于不太严肃的文学作品，例如流行诗歌和圣徒的生活。我们必须从圣西蒙萨洛斯的电梯中学习希腊语中的“一串香肠”，seira salsikion：在这个生动的生活中更引人入胜的轶事之一中，可以看到圣人“将一串香肠挂在脖子上”，左手拿着芥末，然后蘸着吃。” 是的，饮食文本确实证实芥末与猪肉很相配。 如果与芥末一起食用，这种肉“会在体内产生过多的水分和痰液，但它的水分会被中和”。另一种在君士坦丁堡很熟悉但很少出现在文本中的肉类制备方法是 apokti，即腌制的干肉。 这恰好在君士坦丁·波菲罗根图斯细致入微的礼仪书中提到。饮食作者对内脏进行了认真的分类； 头、脑、骨髓、肺、肝、心都评价，一般归为滋补，尤其是肝。然而，大脑是“具有催吐性的”（一些现代读者可能会同意），因此应该与胡椒或芥末一起食用。甚至脾脏也被列出，虽然不受欢迎。

Game animals eaten at Constantinople included the deer of Europe and the gazelles of Asia Minor; wild goats, wild boars and even bears from the Greek and Balkan Mountains; and, perhaps most commonly, hare. Rabbit, however, was at this date still unfamiliar east of Italy. There were also wild asses, the onagroi of Asia Minor and the Levant, though the ungrateful bishop Liutprand was not impressed by 'what they claim to be wild asses" - indeed, the donkey meat proudly served at the Palace came from a herd long maintained in an imperial hunting park and therefore, in the truest sense, not wild at all.

          在君士坦丁堡，吃的猎物包括欧洲的鹿和小亚细亚的瞪羚；来自希腊和巴尔干山脉的野山羊、野猪甚至熊；而且，最常见的是野兔。然而，兔子在这个时期仍然不属于意大利东部。还有野驴，小亚细亚和黎凡特的野驴，虽然忘恩负义的主教柳特普兰德对“他们自称是野驴”并没有留下深刻的印象——事实上，在皇宫自豪地供应的驴肉来自长期维持的一个皇家狩猎公园里的牛群，因此，从最真实的意义上说，这一点也不野生。

Chickens were the commonest of the birds that Byzantines ate. This is the best and lightest of all meats, according to one of the dietary writers, and 'chicken soup cures coldness in the intestines' (for dietary opinions on meat see especially text 2 section viii). Also familiar were duck, goose, quail, pigeon, partridge, peafowl, crane, thrush and many other smaller birds. The eggs of hens, ducks, geese, partridges, peahens and those of small birds are separately evaluated from a dietary point of view. Eggs were the basis of a recipe for a souffle or mousse, incorporating minced chicken and sometimes scallops, which seems to have been in use for several centuries.

          鸡是拜占庭人吃的最常见的禽类。根据一位饮食作家的说法，这是所有肉类中最好、最清淡的，而且“鸡汤可以治肠胃寒”（有关肉类的饮食意见，请参见第 2 节第 vii 节）。 同样熟悉的还有鸭子、鹅、鹌鹑、鸽子、鹧鸪、孔雀、鹤、画眉和许多其他较小的鸟类。从饮食的角度对母鸡、鸭子、鹅、鹧鸪、孔雀和小型鸟类的蛋进行单独评估。鸡蛋是蛋奶酥或慕斯配方的基础，其中加入了碎鸡肉，有时还有扇贝，这似乎已经使用了几个世纪。

Neither milk nor butter had been favoured foods in the classical world. In fact both were commonly seen as typical of wild northern barbarians; civilized Greeks and Romans had turned their milk into cheese. Byzantines were just as enthusiastic about cheese, which some already called prosphagion, the relish par excellence. I Breaking with tradition, however, Byzantine dieticians are prepared to look afresh at milk. Milk is the first food dealt with, under the heading 'Foods that produce good humours', in the handbook 'Humoral and Dietary Qualities of Foods' translated in chapter 6:

       Of all foods the one that is most productive of good humours IS best quality milk, particularly from healthy animals, and if drunk immediately after milking. It should be taken before any food or drink, and nothing else should be eaten until it has been digested and passed through. If even a little of anything else is mixed with it, it goes to decay and so does the milk. A good way is to drink it early in the morning, freshly milked, to eat nothing with it, and to walk quietly about. Initially it moves the bowels, but then gives nourishment; it is not itself excreted but settles the digestion (text 3 section i).

          在古典世界中，牛奶和黄油都不是最受欢迎的食物。 事实上，两者都被普遍视为北方野蛮人的典型特征。文明的希腊人和罗马人把他们的牛奶变成了奶酪。 拜占庭人同样对奶酪充满热情，有些人已经将其称为 prophagion，这是一种出类拔萃的美味。 然而，拜占庭营养师打破传统，准备重新审视牛奶。 在第 6 章翻译的《食物的体液和膳食质量》手册中，牛奶是第一个涉及到的食物，标题为“产生良好幽默感的食物”：

          在所有食物中，最能产生好心情的一种是最优质的牛奶，尤其是来自健康动物的牛奶，如果在挤奶后立即饮用。 它应该在任何食物或饮料之前服用，在它被消化和通过之前不要吃其他东西。 哪怕是一点点别的东西混进去，它也会腐烂，牛奶也会腐烂。 一个好方法是一大早喝新鲜挤奶，不吃任何东西，然后安静地走动。 最初它会移动肠道，但随后会提供营养；它本身不变成排泄，但会消化（文本 3 第 i 节）。

Milk also has an important place, alongside butter and (of course) cheese, in the handbook 'Categories of Foods'. Milk is 'cold and moist'; butter is moist and 'suited to those with a rather hot temperament ... Young cheese without salt is nourishing and good to eat ... other cheeses are all bad, except those made of buttermilk' (text 2 section x). Bad they may have been, but they were eaten. The following quick survey of cheesemaking techniques is attributed to the late Roman author Berytius. Evidently abridged from the now-lost original, it forms part of the compilation on farming, Geoponica, which was put together at the orders of the emperor Constantine Porphyrogennetus in tenth-century Constantinople - and was probably chosen as being still relevant to contemporary practice.

      Most people curdle cheese using what some call juice and others rennet; the best is from kids. Roast salt also curdles milk, and the fig tree's sap and green shoots and leaves, and the hairy inedible parts of globe artichokes, and pepper, and the rough lining of the stomach of the domestic hen, found in its droppings ... Milk keeps for 3 days if, the day before you transport it, you pour it into a jar, boil it, and transfer it into another, stirring it with a fennel stalk or reed while it cools. If you sprinkle a little salt into the cheese it stays 'fresh' for longer, dipped in warm honey, or warm water with safflower seed. Cheese keeps if washed in drinking water and dried in the sun and put up in earthenware with savory or thyme, the cheeses kept apart from one another so far as possible, then sweet vinegar or oxymeli poured over until the liquid fills the gaps and covers them. Some keep cheeses in sea water. Cheese keeps white in brine. Harder and sharper-tasting if smoked. All cheese seems to last longer if kept in [dried] pulse, especially grass-pea or pea. If it is harsh or bitter from age it is to be soaked in raw barley meal (i.e., milled from unparched barley) and water, and the scum removed.

          在“食品类别”手册中，除了黄油和（当然）奶酪之外，牛奶也占有重要地位。 牛奶“又冷又湿”； 黄油是湿润的，“适合那些性情比较热的人……没有盐的新鲜奶酪营养丰富，很好吃……其他奶酪都不好，除了酪乳制成的奶酪”（文本 2 第 x 节）。它们可能很糟糕，但它们还是被吃掉了。 以下对奶酪制作技术的快速调查归功于已故的罗马作家 Berytius。 它显然是从现已丢失的原版中删节的，它构成了农业汇编的一部分，Geoponica，它是在十世纪君士坦丁堡的君士坦丁·波菲罗根塔斯皇帝的命令下整理的——可能被选为仍然与当代实践相关。

          大多数人用一些人称之为果汁和其他的凝乳酶来凝乳酪。烤盐还能凝结牛奶、无花果树的汁液、嫩芽和叶子、洋蓟、胡椒的毛茸茸的不可食用部分，以及家母鸡肚子的粗糙内壁...... 牛奶可以保存 3 天，如果在运输前一天将其倒入一个罐子中，煮沸，然后转移到另一个罐子中，冷却时用茴香茎或芦苇搅拌。 如果你在奶酪中撒一点盐，它会保持“新鲜”更长时间，蘸上温蜂蜜，或加了红花籽的温水。奶酪如果在饮用水中清洗并在阳光下晒干，然后放在带有咸味或百里香的陶器中，那么奶酪会尽可能地分开。紧接着倒入甜醋或羟甲基醋，直到液体填满缝隙并覆盖它们。有些人将奶酪放在海水中。奶酪在盐水中保持白色。 如果将其熏制，味道会更浓烈。 如果保存在[干]豌豆中，所有奶酪似乎都可以保存更长时间，尤其是草豌豆。如果它因陈年而变得粗糙或苦涩，则将其浸泡在生大麦粉（即从未干燥的大麦碾磨而成）和水中，然后去除浮渣。

Athotyro, a type of cheese, is mentioned but not described in the third Prodromic Poem. Adamantios Korais, whose commentary on the Prodromic Poems was published in 1828, says that in his time athotyro was a speciality of Paros and Antiparos. The name denotes a whey cheese, and probably it always did. In some parts of Greece a(n)thotyro is made to be eaten fresh; elsewhere, for example on Lesbos and at Iraklio, it is a hard, dried, blue-rind cheese. The way they do it on Lesbos is reported by Diane Kochilas:

      Anthotyro Lesvou: These are the hard or semihard, blue-rind, fezshaped, aged whey cheeses made from sheep's milk and traditionally used for grating ... Local custom dictates that the cheese, once airdried, be dried even further in a low oven. The cheese ages for anywhere from two months to a year. When it is just a few months old, it is still soft enough to be eaten as a table cheese, and although this is not generally the tradition, it is delicious and buttery.

          Ahotyro 是一种奶酪，在第三首前奏诗中被提及但未描述。Adamantios Korais（阿达曼提欧斯·科莱），他对前奏诗的评论发表于 1828 年，他说在他那个时代，athotyro 是帕罗斯和安提帕罗斯的特产。这个名字表示乳清奶酪，可能一直都是这样。在希腊的某些地方，a(n)thotyro 被制成新鲜食用； 在其他地方，例如在莱斯博斯岛和伊拉克利奥，它是一种坚硬的、干燥的蓝皮奶酪。黛安·科奇拉斯 报道了他们在莱斯博斯岛的做法：

          莱斯沃斯岛的安托蒂罗：这些是硬质或半硬质、蓝皮、fez 形、陈年乳清干酪，由羊奶制成，传统上用于磨碎……当地习俗规定，干酪一旦风干，就要在低烤箱中进一步烘干。 奶酪的陈化时间从两个月到一年不等。 当它只有几个月大的时候，它仍然足够柔软，可以作为餐桌奶酪食用，虽然这不是一般的传统，但它既美味又黄油。

未完待续！