（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
Chapter 3
Foods and Markets of Constantinople
君士坦丁堡的食品和市场
The market of Constantinople
君士坦丁堡的市场
Although less extensive than the old Roman Empire, for many centuries the territories of the New Rome continued to form the largest political unit in the Mediterranean world. The trade and tribute of this great and varied empire still made its way to Constantinople, as observed by Bartolf of Nangis, a participant in the First Crusade: 'The citizens are continually supplied with all their needs by busy seaborne trade. Cyprus, Rhodes, Mytilene, Corinth and many islands minister to the city; Achaea, Bulgaria and Greece labour to satisfy it, and send it all their finest produce. The cities of Romania, in Asia and Europe and Africa, never cease to send it their gifts. Much external trade also came this way. The produce of the Black Sea, the Sea of Azov and the great Russian rivers flowed to Constantinople, including such delicacies as salt or smoked sturgeon and - first mentioned in late medieval sources - caviar. Along eastern trade routes, making contact with the Byzantine world by way of Trebizond, Mosul, Edessa and Alexandria, rare spices and aromatics reached Constantinople, and these included several exotic oriental aromas that had been unknown or very little known in the Mediterranean world before Byzantine rimes. One such is moskhos 'musk： which Simeon Seth with fair accuracy says came from 'a city called Toupat some way east of Khwarezm'：in other words, it came from Tibet. Others are maker 'mace', moskhokaryon 'nutmeg', santalon 'sandalwood', xylaloe 'aloeswood’.
尽管没有旧罗马帝国那么广阔，但多个世纪以来，新罗马继续发展成地中海世界最大的政治单位。正如第一次十字军东征的参与者，南吉斯的巴托尔夫所说，这个庞大而多样化的帝国的贸易和其他国家的贡品仍然流向君士坦丁堡：“繁忙的海上贸易不断满足公民的所有需求。塞浦路斯、罗得岛、米蒂利尼、科林斯和其他岛屿都为这座城市服务； Achaea、保加利亚和希腊在努力补给它，并将他们所有最好的产品送到君士坦丁堡。 位于亚洲、欧洲和非洲交界处的罗马尼亚的城市，从未停止向它发送供养。很多对外贸易也是这样来的。黑海、亚速海和伟大的俄罗斯河流的产品流向君士坦丁堡，包括盐或熏鲟鱼等美味佳肴，以及—— 在中世纪晚期的资料中首次提到——鱼子酱。沿着东部贸易路线，通过特拉比松、摩苏尔、埃德萨和亚历山大港与拜占庭世界接触，稀有的香料和芳香剂到达君士坦丁堡，其中包括几种在拜占庭之前地中海世界不为人知或鲜为人知的异国东方香料。其中之一是 moskhos '麝香：Simeon Seth 相当准确地说，它来自“花剌子模以东某处名为图帕特的城市”：换句话说，它来自西藏。其他是制造商'mace'，moskhokaryon'肉豆蔻'，santalon'檀香'，xylaloe'沉香木'。
Not surprisingly in view of its strategic position on the trade routes, Byzantion had been notable for its markets for many centuries before it was refounded as Constantinople. Xenophon, returning with the 'Ten Thousand' to Greece by way of the Black Sea coast, is the first observer to mention the market place of Byzantion. A little later the historian Theopompus, whose theme was the rise of Philip of Macedon, emphasized the unique character of this city.
The Byzantians had long been democratic; their city was a port of call; its people all spent their time at the market and the harbour, and were dissipated and accustomed to meeting and drinking in taverns. The Kalkhedonians used not to be a part of that democracy, and in those days devoted themselves to employments and the better life; once they tasted the Byzantine democracy they were ruined by luxury. Previously very sensible and moderate in their daily life, they now became drunkards and spendthrifts.
毫不奇怪，鉴于其在贸易路线上的战略地位，拜占庭在重建为君士坦丁堡之前的多个世纪以来一直以其市场而闻名。 色诺芬带着“一万人”从黑海沿岸返回希腊，是第一个提到拜占庭市场的观察者。 不久之后，以马其顿菲利普的崛起为主题的历史学家 Theopompus 强调了这座城市的独特性。
拜占庭人长期以来一直是民主的。他们的城市是停靠港；它的公民都在市场和港口度过他们的时间，并习惯于在小酒馆里见面和喝酒。 Kalkhedonians 过去不属于那个民主国家，在这些日子里，他们致力于就业和更好的生活。 一旦他们尝到了拜占庭式的民主，他们就被奢侈毁掉了。 以前在日常生活中非常理智和温和的他们，现在变成了酒鬼和挥霍者。
Whatever we make of the prejudices that underlie Theopompus's argument, his view of Byzantion as principally a trading centre is accurate, and it was a character that Constantinople retained. By the time of Justinian we know that the Mese, the 'Middle Street' that ran through the city from east to west, was a busy daily market - and that 'more than 500 prostitutes' conducted their business there according to Procopius. The Book of the Eparch has already been mentioned: this decree of Leo the Wise, compiled about 895, regulated the trading guilds of Constantinople and thus provides a good deal of information about retail trade there.
Grocers may keep their shops anywhere in the City, in the broad streets and in the city blocks, so that the necessities of life may be easily procurable. They shall sell meat, salt fish, gut, cheese, honey, oil, legumes of all kinds, butter, solid and liquid pitch, cedar oil, hemp, linseed, gypsum, crockery, storage jars, nails, and in short every article which can be sold by steelyard and not by scales. They shall not sell any article which belongs to the trade of perfumers, soap-merchants, drapers, taverners or butchers……
无论我们如何看待构成 Theopompus 论点的偏见，他认为拜占庭主要是一个贸易中心是正确的，而且君士坦丁堡保留了这个角色。到查士丁尼时代，我们知道 Mese，即从东到西贯穿城市的“中街”，是一个繁忙的日常市场——据 Procopius 说，“超过 500 名妓女”在那里开展业务。大纪元之书已经被提及：
杂货商可以在城市的任何地方、宽阔的街道和城市街区开设他们的商店，这样生活必需品就可以很容易地买到。他们将出售肉类、咸鱼、内脏、奶酪、蜂蜜、油、各种豆类、黄油、固体和液体沥青、雪松油、大麻、亚麻籽、石膏、陶器、贮藏罐、钉子，总之所有可以按磅秤出售，不能按秤出售的都行。他们不得出售属于调香师、肥皂商、布料商、小酒馆或屠夫行业的任何物品……
The 'broad streets' of Contantinople, mentioned in the regulation just quoted, are a feature that it shared with medieval cities elsewhere. In Greek they are plateiai, a classical Greek name that was adopted into Latin very early and is linked with Italian piazza, French place and Spanish plaza, though in the West these words soon came to denote a square rather than a wide colonnaded street. The importance of these market streets in the everyday trade of Constantinople is specially noticed by two diplomatic travellers, an Arabic-speaking North African who arrived in 1332 and a Spanish diplomat who passed through the city in 1437. The former, Ibn Batuta, fulfilled a lifelong ambition to visit the historic metropolis when he succeeded in being chosen as one of the party that accompanied a Greek princess returning to her homeland from Central Asia. He writes thus:
It is one of the customs among them that anyone who wears the king's robe of honour and rides on his horse is paraded through the city bazaars with trumpets, fifes and drums, so that the people may see him. This is most commonly done with the Turks who come from the territories of the sultan Uzbak, so that they may not be molested. In this way they paraded me through the bazaars.
刚刚引用的条例中提到的君士坦丁堡的“宽阔街道”是它与其他地方的中世纪城市共有的特征。在希腊语中，它们是plateiai（正方形），这是一个古典希腊名词，很早就被拉丁语采用，与意大利广场、法国地方和西班牙广场有关，尽管在西方这些词很快就表示广场而不是宽阔的柱廊街道。两位外交旅行者特别注意到这些市场街道在君士坦丁堡日常贸易中的重要性，一位讲阿拉伯语的北非人于 1332 年抵达，一位西班牙外交官于 1437 年经过这座城市。前任伊本·巴图塔 (Ibn Batuta) 成功地被选为陪同希腊公主从中亚回国的一员，他实现了访问这座历史悠久的大都市的毕生抱负。他这样写道：
他们的风俗之一是，凡身着王袍骑马的人，都要吹着号角、长笛和鼓，在城市的集市上游行，让人们看到他。这最常见于来自苏丹乌兹巴克领土的土耳其人，以免受到骚扰。他们就这样带我穿过集市。
As becomes clearer from the following details of Ibn Batuta's narrative, these 'bazaars' are not yet the vast covered markets familiar from modern Istanbul, including the spice bazaar: they are open spaces, the plateiai or colonnaded streets of the early medieval city.
One of the two parts of the city is called Astanbul: it is on the eastern bank of the river and includes the places of residence of the Sultan, his officers of state, and the rest of the population. Its bazaars and streets are spacious and paved with flagstones, and the members of each craft have a separate place, no others sharing it with them. Each bazaar has gates which are closed upon it at night, and the majority of the artisans and salespeople in them are women.
从 伊本·巴图塔（Ibn Batuta）叙述的以下细节中，可以清楚地看出，这些“集市”还不是现代伊斯坦布尔熟悉的巨大的有盖市场，包括香料集市：它们是开放空间，是中世纪早期城市的高台或柱廊街道。
城市的两个部分之一被称为阿斯坦布尔：它位于河的东岸，包括苏丹、他的国家官员和其他人口的居住地。 它的集市和街道都很宽敞，铺着石板，每个工艺的成员都有一个单独的地方，没有其他人与他们共享。 每个集市晚上关闭大门，其中大多数工匠和推销员是女性。
Incidentally, it is because the Golden Horn turns north-eastwards J.t its mouth - and because, as it happens, Ibn Batuta approached the city from the north - that he places Istanbul 'on the eastern bank' of this inlet. The other part of the city as he describes it consists of Galata and Pera, on the 'western', or rather northern, shore of the Golden Horn.
顺便说一句，正是因为金角湾从其的嘴巴转向东北方向——而且因为碰巧伊本·巴图塔从北方接近了这座城市——他把伊斯坦布尔放在了这个入口的“东岸”。 正如他所描述的，这座城市的另一部分由加拉塔和佩拉组成，位于金角湾的“西部”，或者更确切地说是北部海岸。
A hundred years later came the visit of the Spanish emissary Pero Tafur. Outside the church of St Sophia, he observed, 'are big markets with shops where they are accustomed to sell wine and bread and fish, and more shellfish than anything else, since the Greeks are accustomed to this food ... Here they have big stone tables where both rulers and common people eat in public' and the last detail suggests that the hot street food so much enjoyed by Manuel I remained a special feature of Constantinople four centuries later.
一百年后，西班牙使者佩罗·塔弗尔来访。 他观察到，在圣索菲亚教堂外，“有大市场，那里有商店，他们习惯于出售葡萄酒、面包和鱼，还有比其他任何东西都多的贝类，因为希腊人已经习惯了这种食物...... 统治者和普通民众在公共场合用餐的石桌”，最后一个细节表明，曼努埃尔一世如此享受的街头热食，在四个世纪后这仍然是君士坦丁堡的特色。
'Fat milk-stuffed suckling kids are rich and nourishing above all other foods,' wrote Constantine Manasses (Moral Poem [9.62.638 Miller]). To those who cared for a varied diet, the range of meat available for purchase in the markets of Constantinople was very varied indeed. Among favoured game were gazelles of inland Anatolia, 'dorkades commonly called gazelia', recommended above all other game by Simeon Seth. There were also the wild asses, of which herds were maintained in imperial parks. They were - says Liutprand - the emperor's pride and joy, though he himself considered them in no way different from the domestic asses of Cremona, and felt sure that any predatory wolf would agree with him. Moreover, it was in Byzantine times that dried meat first became a delicacy in the region - a forerunner of the pastirma of modern Turkey.
康斯坦丁·马纳西斯（Constantine Manasses）写道：“充满脂肪的乳汁比其他所有食物都丰富且营养丰富”。 对于那些喜欢多样化饮食的人来说，君士坦丁堡市场上可供购买的肉类种类确实多种多样。最受欢迎的是内陆安纳托利亚瞪羚，“通常称为瞪羚的多尔卡德羚羊”，Simeon Seth 最推荐的其他肉类。 还有野驴，它们被成群地饲养在皇家公园里。柳特普兰德说，它们是皇帝的骄傲和喜悦之源，尽管他自己认为它们与克雷莫纳的家驴没有任何不同，并且确信任何掠食性的狼都会同意他的看法。此外，正是在拜占庭时代，干肉首次成为该地区的美食——现代土耳其的前身。
At this period, and for many years before and after, the central cattle and sheep market of Constantinople was en to Strategio 'at the Commandery’.
Butchers must not wait at Nicomedia or other cities for the foreign dealers who come to sell flocks of sheep: they must go to meet them beyond the river Sangarios, so that they will get the meat cheaper. [Local] people who keep sheep are to sell their animals to the appointed butchers and deal through them alone. They are not to hinder country people from coming to town to sell sheep.
在此期间，以及前后多年，君士坦丁堡的中央牛羊市场一直处于“司令部”的战略地位。
屠夫不能在尼科梅迪亚或其他城市等外国商人来卖羊群（卖给屠夫）：他们必须去桑加里奥斯河那边接他们，这样他们才能买到更便宜的肉。[本地]养羊的人将他们的动物卖给指定的屠夫，并单独处理。他们并不是要阻止乡下人进城卖羊。
The swine market, oddly enough, was en to Tauro 'at the Bull'. This meeting-place played an extra part as the centre of sales of spring lamb, a favourite luxury, between Easter and Whitsunday - and was, as it were, prepared for its special spring role by way of a ceremony in which the emperor was welcomed to 'the Bull' with songs of praise on the Feast of the Apostles on the Tuesday after Easter.
All those who buy, slaughter and sell swine must do their business en to Tauro 'at the Bull'. Any tradesman who goes outside the City to meet the swineherds and buys from them there, and any who brings swine secretly into the City districts, and any who sells pork at an inflated price, is to be flogged, shaved, and expelled from the guild of pork butchers. Any who takes swine to a nobleman's house and sells them there privately is to be liable to the same punishment. The masters of the guild are to record the names of all swineherds who bring their animals into the city, so that they cannot sell pork to unofficial dealers. All sales must take place publicly en to Tauro.
奇怪的是，养猪市场对陶罗来说是“公牛”。 这个聚会场所在复活节和圣灵降临节之间作为春季羔羊肉的销售中心发挥了额外的作用，这是一种最受欢迎的奢侈品，并且可以说是通过一个欢迎皇帝的仪式来准备其特殊的春季角色。在复活节后的星期二的使徒盛宴上，人们会用赞美的歌曲向“公牛”致敬。
所有购买、屠宰和出售猪的人都必须在“公牛场”与 陶罗做生意。 商人出城见猪倌，向猪倌进货，偷带猪进城，高价卖猪肉，鞭笞剃毛，逐出行会。 猪肉屠夫。 任何人将猪带到贵族家并私下出售，都将受到同样的惩罚。 公会会长要记录所有带牲口进城的猪倌的名字，这样他们就不能把猪肉卖给非官方的经销商。 所有销售都必须在 Tauro 公开进行。
From 'the Bull' the emperor processed, on that same Feast of the Apostles, to the 'arch of the Bakers', en to phourniko ton artopolon. The same route is followed on other occasions; the two landmarks were close together. These bakers of Caonstantinople are the subject of quite special regulations in the Book of the Eparch compiled under Leo VI. The municipal regulations specify with great precision the price to be charged for bread, and also exempt the human and animal staff of bakeries ftom being commandeered for public service.
Bakers shall sell bread by weight fixed from time to time according to the price of wheat, as ordered by the Eparch. They are to buy wheat in the Assistant's warehouse, in units corresponding to the amount on which a tax of one gold nomisma is payable. After grinding, proving and baking, they shall calculate the price by adding one keration and two miliaresia per gold nomisma: the keration being their profit, and the two miliaresia the cost of employing the men and the animals who do the milling, and also the cost of fires and lighting. Bakers are never liable to be called for any public service, neither themselves nor their animals, to prevent any interruption of the baking of bread. They must not have their ovens under any dwelling-house ...
从“公牛”皇帝在同一个使徒盛宴上加工，到“面包师拱门”，再到 phourniko ton artoplon。在其他场合也遵循相同的路线；两个地方靠得很近。君士坦丁堡的这些面包师是利奥六世所编的《大纪元之书》中有着相当特殊规定的职业。 市政法规非常精确地规定了面包的收费标准，并且免除了面包店的人力和动物员工被征用为公共服务。
面包师应根据 Eparch 的命令，不时根据小麦价格按重量出售面包。 他们将在助手的仓库中购买小麦，其单位对应于应缴纳一金诺米玛税的金额。 研磨、发酵和烘烤后，他们将计算价格，每个金硬币加上一个 keration 和两个 miliaresia：keration 是他们的利润，两个 miliaresia 是雇用进行碾磨的人和动物的成本，还有烧火和照明费用。 面包师永远不会被要求提供任何公共服务，无论是他们自己还是他们的动物，以防止面包烘烤的中断。他们绝不能将烤箱放在任何住宅下......
The 1600 fishing boats of Byzantium (the statistic comes from the work of a historian of the fourth Crusade, Gunther of Pairis) were officially enjoined to bring in their daily catch each morning to piers and sea beaches within the city walls. The fishmongers were to buy them directly from the boats at anchor, to sell them to the public in one of several market streets through the city. Local fish was only to be sold fresh: salting for export was specifically forbidden, and the selling of offcuts was the regulation way to dispose of any surplus. Wholesale and retail prices were regulated on a daily basis depending on the size of the daily catch; the market inspectors as well as the state took their share. Two measures were supposed to keep the system working and remunerative. The masters of the fishmongers' guild were to go to the Eparch daily at daybreak to report the quantity of white fish brought in; and sale direct to the public from the fishing boats was forbidden. But we know that in practice there was an alternative source - a black market, perhaps. The Prodromic Poems, which may be legitimately taken as slices of Constantinopolitan life (albeit highly coloured) tell of a kephalos tripithamos augatos ek to Rygin, 'a grey mullet of three hands' breadths, with its roe, from Rygin'. Now this 'Rygin' is certainly Region, the first harbour west of Constantinople, just outside the city walls along the north coast of the Sea of Marmara. As confirmation of its status as an extramural (and presumably less-regulated) market for Constantinople we have the observations of Pierre Belon, who visited the city about a hundred years after the Turkish capture and reported that he found melca, caimac and oxygala - in other words, curds, clotted cream and yoghourt - on sale at this same place, 'the last harbour where Constantinople meets Thrace'. The word oxygala survives, slightly altered, in modern Greek xinogalo, which nowadays usually means 'buttermilk' but is also still used (I quote Diane Kochilas) as the name of 'a primitive, deliciously sour, yogurtlike cheese, made by placing raw buttermilk inside a sheepskin and agitating it over several days'. This kind of cheese, made from buttermilk, is specifically favoured by one of the Byzantine dietary authors (text 2 section x) - other cheeses, he states sweepingly, are 'all bad'.
拜占庭的 1600 艘渔船（该统计数据来自第四次十字军东征的历史学家，帕里斯的冈瑟）被正式下令每天早上将每天的渔获量运往城墙内的码头和海滩。鱼贩将直接从停泊的船上购买它们，然后在穿过城市的几条市场街道之一将它们出售给公众。当地的鱼只能卖新鲜的：盐腌出口是被明确禁止的，出售边角料是处理剩余部分的监管方式。批发和零售价格根据每日渔获量每天进行调节；市场监察员和国家都分担了他们的责任。应该采取两项措施来保持系统正常运行并获得报酬。鱼贩行会的负责人每天天一亮就去大纪元报告白鱼的数量。禁止从渔船上直接向公众出售。但我们知道，实际上还有另一种来源——也许是黑市。 Prodromic Poems 可以合法地被视为君士坦丁堡生活的片段（尽管色彩丰富），它向 Rygin 讲述了 kephalos tripithamos augatos ek，“一条三手宽的灰鲻鱼，带有鱼子，来自 Rygin”。现在这个'Rygin'肯定是某个地区，君士坦丁堡以西的第一个港口，就在马尔马拉海北海岸的城墙外。为了确认其作为君士坦丁堡的校外市场（可能监管较少）的地位，我们有皮埃尔·贝隆的观察，他在土耳其被俘大约一百年后访问了这座城市，并报告说他发现了 melca、caimac 和 oxygala - 在换句话说，凝乳、凝乳和酸奶——在同一个地方出售，“君士坦丁堡与色雷斯相遇的最后一个港口”。 “氧” 这个词在现代希腊语“酸牛奶”中幸存下来，略有改变，现在通常意味着“酪乳”，但也仍然使用（我引用 黛安·科奇拉斯）作为“一种原始的、酸味可口的、类似酸奶的奶酪的名称，通过放置生酪乳制成放在羊皮里，搅动几天”。这种由酪乳制成的奶酪特别受到拜占庭饮食作者之一的青睐（文本 2 第 x 节）——他一概而论地指出，其他奶酪“都不好”。
So the roofed bazaars of modern Istanbul, including the famous spice bazaar, do not trace their history directly to the medieval city. It was the Turkish conqueror, Mehmet II, in the course of his replanning and rebuilding of Constantinople in the mid fifteenth century, who 'ordered the building of a very large and fine market-place not far from the Palace, surrounded by strong walls, and arranged with beautiful and spacious arcades inside and a ceiling of ceramic tiles and translucent stone'. The same monarch, according to his eulogist, 'erected fine houses, inns, markets throughout the city'.
因此，现代伊斯坦布尔的屋顶集市，包括著名的香料集市，并没有直接将其历史追溯到这座中世纪城市。 十五世纪中叶，土耳其征服者穆罕默德二世在重新规划和重建君士坦丁堡的过程中，“下令在离王宫不远的地方建造一个非常大而精美的市场，周围环绕着坚固的城墙， 并在内部布置了美丽宽敞的拱廊和瓷砖和半透明石头的天花板。 根据他的悼词者的说法，同一位君主“在整个城市建立了精美的房屋、旅馆和市场”。
未 完 待 续 ！
