（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第五部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
Chapter 2
Tastes and Smells of the City
城市的味道和气息
Constantinople and its environs
君士坦丁堡及其周边地区
The 'New Rome' was set in a landscape of unrivalled beauty. It lay at the meeting place of two continents, as we are reminded in reading an early Byzantine poet's appreciation of a palace on the shores of the Bosporus, just north of the city:
Where the land is cut in two by the winding channel whose shores open the way to the sea, our divine emperor erected this palace for his most illustrious consort Sophia. oh far-ruling Rome, thou lookest from Europe on a prospect in Asia the beauty of which is worthy of thee.
“新罗马”位于无与伦比的美景中。它位于两大洲的交汇处，正如我们在阅读一位早期拜占庭诗人对博斯普鲁斯海峡沿岸一座宫殿的欣赏时所提及的那样，就在城市的北部：
蜿蜒的河道将陆地一分为二，河道的海岸通向大海，我们神圣的皇帝为他最显赫的妃子索菲亚建造了这座宫殿。噢，遥远的罗马，你从欧洲看亚洲的前景，其美丽值得你。
There were many nearby beauty spots to delight those who lived in Constantinople. Liutprand, on his second mission, was summoned to a meeting with the emperor Nicephorus eis Pegas 'at the Springs', half a mile west of the city, where there was a monastery, a palace and a royal park running down to the shore of the Sea of Marmara. For Liutprand it was an uncomfortable occasion (he had a headache and hadn't wanted to go) but most visitors found this a beautiful place. Russian pilgrims, in 1390 and after, made special excursions to these famous springs, which were sacred to the Virgin. They were told of the miraculous little fish that swam in those healing waters, fish that also figure in later legends - according to which, they had been intended for a monk's lunch: he dropped them into the pool in shock when told of the capture of Constantinople, and their descendants lived there ever Since.
附近有许多美丽的景点，让居住在君士坦丁堡的人们感到高兴。柳特普朗在他的第二次任务中被传唤到在城市以西半英里处的斯普林斯，在那与皇帝尼斯福鲁斯·艾斯·佩加斯会面，那里有一座修道院、一座宫殿和一座皇家公园，一直延伸到海岸边，那里是马尔马拉海。对于柳特普兰来说，这是一个不舒服的场合（他头疼，不想去），但大多数游客都觉得这是一个美丽的地方。1390 年及之后的俄罗斯朝圣者专门游览了这些著名的温泉，这些温泉对圣母来说是神圣的。他们被告知在那些治愈的水域中游泳的神奇小鱼，这些鱼也出现在后来的传说中——据传说，它们是为僧侣准备的午餐：当得知君士坦丁堡被攻陷时，他震惊地把他们扔进了水池，他们的后代从此一直住在那里。
Fishermen brought their produce ashore daily to many small harbours near the City; the harbour of Region or Rygin, where you could buy grey mullet, was only a stone's throw from the 'Springs'. The enthusiasm for fish at Constantinople fully matched that at classical Athens, as we are reminded by an amusing exchange in the satirical squib Timarion. The hero, unexpectedly visiting Hades, is accosted by a resident:
'Welcome, newly-dead!' he said. 'Tell us the news among the living. How many mackerel do you get for an obol? Bonitoes? Tunnies? Picarels? What's the price of oil? Wine? Wheat, and all the rest of it? And I forgot the most important thing: how's the whitebait catch? I used to enjoy shopping for whitebait when I was alive - I liked it better than sea bass.'
渔民每天将他们的农产品带到城市附近的许多小港口。可以买到灰鲻鱼的Region或Rygin 港口距离仅一箭之遥。 君士坦丁堡对鱼的热情与古典雅典完全一致，正如讽刺的哑炮蒂马里昂的有趣交流提醒我们的那样。英雄出人意料地拜访了哈迪斯，他被一位居民搭讪：
“欢迎，新死的！” 他说。 '告诉我们在生者中的消息。 一个obol你能得到多少鲭鱼？鲣鱼？金枪鱼？皮卡雷尔？油的价格是多少？葡萄酒？小麦，以及所有其他的？我忘记了最重要的事情：银鱼抓得怎么样？我活着的时候喜欢买银鱼——我喜欢它胜过鲈鱼。
One of the royal gardens near Constantinople is allowed to speak for itself in a poem by Arabius: 'I am rich in waters, gardens, groves, vineyards, and the generous gifts of the neighbouring sea. Both fisherman and farmer offer me pleasing presents, from sea and land. Those who rest in me are soothed either by the song of birds or the sweet call of the ferryman.'! The poet allowed himself a smile as he thus characterized 'the sweet call of the ferryman', but he knew that he was only slightly embellishing the truth. The waters around Constantinople were crisscrossed by ferry services, an everyday essential for the suburbs and satellite cities of the great capital.
君士坦丁堡附近的一个皇家花园被允许在阿拉比乌斯的一首诗中为自己说话：“我拥有丰富的水域、花园、小树林、葡萄园和邻近海域的慷慨馈赠。渔夫和农民都为我提供了来自海洋和陆地的令人愉悦的礼物。那些在我心中安息的人，要么被鸟儿的歌声，要么被摆渡人的甜蜜呼唤所抚慰！诗人微笑着形容“摆渡人的甜蜜呼唤”，但他知道自己只是在稍微修饰一下事实。君士坦丁堡周围的水域纵横交错，渡轮服务是这座伟大首都的郊区和卫星城市的日常必需物。
In its last years, Christian Constantinople is frequently said to have been a rather empty city, and for this reason more fruitful than the big cities of Western Europe. 'This city of Constantinople is made up of villages; there is much more open space than buildings,' reported Bertrandon de la Broquiere. Bertrandon, a Burgundian noble, travelled East for political reasons in 1432. His observation parallels that of Brocardus, titular Latin Archbishop of Smyrna, who wrote a manual for prospective Crusaders about a century earlier. Brocardus has to admit that Constantinople is a very big city (his readers would, after all, be familiar with earlier and impressive descriptions such as that of Geoffroi de Villehardouin) but he skilfully plays down the dangers.
Although the city is large, only a modest number of people live there in relation to its size. Barely a third of the city is inhabited. The rest is made up of gardens or fields or vineyards or waste land. The population consists of fishermen, merchants, artisans and cultivators. The nobles are few in number: they are as weak as women and as fearful as Jews.
在其最后几年，基督教君士坦丁堡经常被认为是一个相当空旷的城市，因此比西欧的大城市更有成果。“君士坦丁堡这个城市是由村庄组成的”，Bertrandon de la Broquiere（贝特朗东·德拉布罗基埃）说，这里的开放空间比建筑物多得多。勃艮第贵族 Bertrandon 于 1432 年出于政治原因前往东方。他的观察与有名的士麦那拉丁大主教 Brocardus 的观察相似，后者在大约一个世纪前为未来的十字军编写了一本手册。布罗卡杜斯不得不承认君士坦丁堡是一座非常大的城市（毕竟，他的读者会熟悉Geoffroi de Villehardouin（贝特朗东·德拉布罗基埃）等早期令人印象深刻的描述），但他巧妙地淡化了危险。
The circuit of its great walls was so extensive that it is possible Constantinople always gave this impression to the open-minded traveller. Those walls may always have enclosed a fair proportion of market gardens and vineyards among the buildings. Earlier descriptions, however, suggest the opposite; the impression we get from them is of an overcrowded city.
Constantinople itself is squalid and fetid and in many places afflicted by permanent darkness, for the wealthy overshadow the streets with buildings and leave these dirty, dark places to the poor and to travellers. There murders and robberies and other crimes of the night are committed. People live untouched by the law in this city, for all its rich men are bullies and many of its poor men are thieves. A criminal knows neither fear nor shame, for crime is not punished by law and never comes entirely to light.
其长城的环路如此广泛，以至于君士坦丁堡可能总是给思想开放的旅行者留下这种印象。这些墙壁可能总是将相当比例的市场花园和葡萄园包围在建筑物中。然而，较早的描述表明相反。我们从他们那里得到的印象是一个人满为患的城市。
君士坦丁堡本身又脏又臭，在许多地方都受到永久黑暗的折磨，因为富人用建筑物遮蔽了街道，把这些肮脏、黑暗的地方留给了穷人和旅行者。那里有谋杀、抢劫和其他夜间犯罪。这座城市的人们生活在法律面前，因为那里的富人都是恶霸，许多穷人都是小偷。一个罪犯既不怕也不知道羞耻，因为犯罪不受法律惩罚，也永远不会完全暴露出来。
Odo's view of the street crime of Constantinople was not universally shared. Liutprand of Cremona, in his early Antapodosis, tells a lively (though unlikely) story of how the emperor Leo VI the Wise had been caught out by his own excellent night watch arrangements and, as a result, had spent a night in prison. Liutprand himself, on the later visit reported in his Embassy, had cause to regret the efficiency of Constantinople's state security.
Guards were placed to prevent myself and my people from leaving my house. Any poor people of Latin speech who came asking charity were seized and killed or imprisoned. My Greek interpreter was not allowed to go out, even to buy food. We had to send the cook, who did not know Greek and could only speak to the shopkeeper with signs or nods: he paid four nummi for supplies that the interpreter had bought for one. If any friends sent spices, loaves of bread, wine, or fruit, the guards smashed the gifts on to the ground and drove the messengers away with their fists.
奥多对君士坦丁堡街头犯罪的看法并未得到普遍认同。克雷莫纳的柳特普兰德在他早期的 Antapodosis 中讲述了一个生动（尽管不太可能）的故事，即智者利奥六世如何被自己出色的守夜安排所逮捕，并因此在监狱中度过了一夜。柳特普兰德本人在其大使馆报告的访问中，有理由对君士坦丁堡国家安全的效率感到遗憾。
警卫被安置在我的房前，以防止我和我的人离开房子。任何来请求施舍的说着拉丁语的穷人都被抓获、杀害或监禁。我的希腊翻译不被允许外出，甚至连买食物也不被允许。我们不得不派厨师来，他不懂希腊语，只能用手势或点头与店主交谈：他花了四块钱买了口译员买的东西。如果有朋友送来香料、面包、酒或水果，守卫就会把礼物砸在地上，用拳头把他们赶走。
未完待续！
