（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十三部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
Fruits and vegetables
水果和蔬菜
The long and careful list of fruits in the dietary texts (see especially text 2 section iv) is a sign of the range of cultivated fruits in the Byzantine diet and of the importance accorded to them. To the wealthy, who had their own orchards in or near Constantinople, fresh fruit was an everyday luxury. A Russian traveller wrote:
In the precinct of St Sophia there are wells, and the Patriarch's garden, and many chapels. All kinds of fruit for the Patriarch: melons, apples and pears, are kept there in a well: they are placed in a basket on the end of a long rope, and when the Patriarch is to eat they pull them out, quite chilled. The Emperor eats in this way too.
饮食教科书中有着长而仔细的水果清单（特别是文本2第四部分），这表明拜占庭饮食中栽培水果的范围以及对其重要性。对于在君士坦丁堡或附近拥有自己果园的富人来说，新鲜水果是一种日常奢侈品。一位俄罗斯旅行者写道：
圣索菲亚区有水井、族长花园和许多小教堂。给族长的各种水果：瓜、苹果和梨，都放在井里：它们被放在一根长绳末端的篮子里，当族长要吃的时候，他们把它们拉出来，很冰凉。皇帝也是这样吃的。
Almost unknown to the classical menu, the lemon became an important fruit in the Byzantine period. It is called kitron in classicizing texts: this was the classical name for the citron, at first applied to the lemon as well. It has a new name, lemoni, in the colloquial, and it was already used for making a conserve or 'spoon sweet' with honey and spices, to dia kitrou, a luxury food with excellent dietary qualities. 'It warms the stomach and aids digestion,' says Simeon Seth, 'but is not so good to eat without the spices.' Meanwhile new varieties of fruits were arriving from the East, such as the 'so-called Saracen melon' and the large jujubes that were called 'Edessan', named after an ancient city and religious centre which for many centuries had marked a frontier Between Roman and Persian spheres of influence. Even newer fruits were the aubergine, mazizani or melitzana, and the orange, nerantzi. Both these names are of Eastern origin, though etymologists see them as having reached Greek by way of the medieval Italian of Venice, Genoa or other trading cities. Simeon Seth, casting about for a classical term for aubergine, identifies it with the strykhnos kepeutos or 'garden nightshade' of Galen - not a bad attempt, since both belong to the same genus. Galen's garden nightshade is still used as a fruit in Crete, though elsewhere in modern Greece it has gained the reputation of being poisonous and is avoided.
几乎没有肉还知道拜占庭的经典菜单。柠檬在拜占庭时期成为一种重要的水果。它在经典文本中被称为kitron：这是citron的经典名称，最初也适用于柠檬。它在口语中有一个新名称，lemoni。它被用来制作蜜饯或“勺子甜”，用蜂蜜和香料制成，dia kitrou 是一种具有极佳饮食品质的奢侈食品。“它可以温暖胃部，帮助消化，”西蒙·塞思说，“但如果没有香料就不太好吃了。” 与此同时，新品种的水果从东方运来，例如“所谓的撒拉逊甜瓜”和被称为“埃德桑”的大枣，这种大枣以一座古城和宗教中心命名，几个世纪以来一直是罗马帝国和波斯的势力范围之间的边界。较新的水果是茄子（mazizani 或melitzana）以及橙子（nerantzi）。 这两个名字都起源于东方，尽管词源学家认为它们是通过中世纪意大利威尼斯、热那亚或其他贸易城市到达希腊的。 西蒙·塞思（Simeon Seth）为茄子取了一个经典术语，将其与盖伦的 strykhnos kepeutos 或“花园茄属植物”相提并论——这是一次不错的尝试，因为两者属于同一属。盖伦的花园茄属植物在克里特岛仍然被用作水果，尽管在现代希腊的其他地方它已经获得了不好的名声并被避免使用。
Meanwhile new ways with old Mediterranean fruits were being discovered. The history of modern Greek spoon sweets has not been traced, but somewhere in their prehistory lie the kydonata 'quince conserve or marmalade' and the karydaton 'walnut conserve' of the Byzantine Empire. Quince marmalade is now known all over southern Europe, but the old-fashioned French name for it, cotignac, was borrowed, by way of Provencal, from the Greek.
与此同时，人们发现了使用古老地中海水果的新方法。现代希腊勺子糖果的历史尚未追溯，但在其史前时期的某个地方存在拜占庭帝国的 kydonata “木瓜果酱或果酱”和 karydaton “核桃果酱”。 Quince 果酱现在在整个南欧都广为人知，但它的老式法语名称cotignac是从希腊语中借用的普罗旺斯语。
The dietary qualities of fruits were worked out in great detail. The recommendation (text 3 section vi) to eat capers before the meal with honey vinegar or oil and vinegar corresponds precisely with one of the favourite ways to use capers, the so-called 'rose of summer', in modern Greece. Aphrodisiac properties were attributed to several fruits, nuts and seeds. Apart from the guidance given in text 3, we may note that pine kernels, taken with honey or with raisins, were 'good for the semen'; so were poppy seeds with honey, but on the other hand poppy seed could cause headache.
水果的膳食品质得到了非常详细的研究。建议（文本 3 第 vi 节）在餐前用蜂蜜醋或油和醋吃刺山柑，这与现代希腊最喜欢食用刺山柑的方法之一，即所谓的“夏日玫瑰”完全一致。状羊药（自己意会）特性归因于几种水果、坚果和种子。除了文本 3 中给出的指导外，我们可能会注意到松仁与蜂蜜或葡萄干一起服用，“对静夜（自己意会）有益”；罂粟籽加蜂蜜也是如此，但另一方面，罂粟籽会引起头痛。
Among fruits we must deal with table olives, an essential element of the Byzantine diet. It was observed that olives could not be grown more than thirty-eight miles inland, and the consequent difficulty in obtaining olives suffered by any who lived further away from the sea than that was regarded as a serious misfortune. There were many recipes for olives. The phrase-book lists under elaiai several kinds of table olives called for by dieticians: elaiai thlastai, young olives bruised and cured in salt; elaiai di' oxous syntithemenai, olives conserved in vinegar; kolymbades, green olives conserved in brine, a famous and ancient recipe; elaiai oxomelitai, green olives in honey vinegar, especially recommended for the month of March. Recipes for elaiai thlastai, for kolymbades and for olives in honey vinegar are given in the Geoponica, the farming manual compiled from classical sources under Constantine Porphyrogennetus (see chapter 7 for these recipes).
在水果中，我们必须处理食用橄榄，这是拜占庭饮食的基本要素。 据观察，橄榄不能在内陆种植超过三十八英里，因此任何住在离海更远的人都难以获得橄榄，这被认为是一种不幸。关于橄榄，有很多食谱。 短语手册在 elaaii 下列出了营养师要求的几种食用橄榄：elaaii thlastai，用盐腌制的年轻橄榄； elaaii di' oxous syntithemenai，用醋保存的橄榄； kolymbades，用盐水保存的绿橄榄，（一种著名的古老食谱）； elaaiai oxomelitai，蜂蜜醋中的绿橄榄，特别推荐用于三月。elaaii thlastai、kolymbades 和蜂蜜醋橄榄的食谱在 Geoponica 中给出，这是根据康斯坦丁 Porphyrogennetus 的经典资料汇编而成的农业手册（这些食谱见第 7 章）。
The dietary effects of vegetables are carefully described in the dietary texts. Simeon Seth adds the well-known facts that lettuce was soporific and antaphrodisiac: those wishing to become parents should avoid lettuce. Celery was useful, he continues, because it made women more uninhibited in their sexual behaviour, but it was to be avoided by women who were nursing as it reduced the quantity of milk that they produced. It was also well known that rocket 'is very heating. It produces semen and awakens the appetite for sex. It causes headache' (bad luck).
蔬菜的饮食效果在饮食文本中进行了详细描述。 Simeon Seth 补充了众所周知的事实，即生菜催眠与催情效果：那些希望成为父母的人应该避免生菜。他继续说，芹菜很有用，因为它使女性的性行为更加不受约束，但哺乳期的女性应该避免食用，因为它会减少乳汁量。众所周知，rocket（？？？）“很热”。它产生静夜（自己意会）并唤醒性欲。但它会导致头痛'（运气不好）。
The dietary authors offer no advice on mushrooms. Such advice is given briefly in the household manual of the Byzantine author 'Cecaumenus', who simply instructs his son: 'Never eat raw mushrooms! They have killed off many a large family.') Various fungi (including the valuable truffle) were certainly eaten, but no author gives a detailed description of the favoured kinds, the poisonous kinds and their names.
作者没有提供有关蘑菇的建议。这样的建议在拜占庭作家“Cecaumenus”的家庭手册中有简要说明，他只是告诉他的儿子：“永远不要吃生蘑菇！ 他们害死了许多家庭。'）各种真菌（包括珍贵的松露）肯定被吃掉了，但没有作者详细描述受青睐的种类、有毒种类及其名称。
The wild greens that are said (text 2 section v) to produce 'bad humours' will have included borage, purslane, poppy leaves, sow-thistle and star of Bethlehem, among many others; but mallow, with its mucilaginous texture and taste and its additional uses as a food wrapper, generally counts as a garden vegetable rather than one of the wild greens. Wild fruits are also listed in the manuals - some of them not easy to identify. The distinction Between wild fruits and someone else's orchard fruits - the difference Between foraging and serum ping - was observed by some more punctiliously than others, as indicated by a guilty reminiscence of a Byzantine hermit:
When I was a little boy, out with the other children, I used to eat rowan-berries and they used to go off and steal figs. Once they ran away and dropped one of the figs, and I picked it up and ate it. Every time I remember this, I sit down and cry.’
据说（文本 2 第 v 节）会产生“坏脾气”的野菜包括琉璃苣、马齿苋、罂粟叶、水飞蓟和伯利恒之星（what？这是什么玩样？）等；但是锦葵具有粘稠的质地和味道以及作为食品包装的额外用途，通常被视为一种花园蔬菜，而不是一种野菜。 手册中还列出了野果——其中一些不易识别。 野生水果和别人的果园水果之间的区别——觅食和血清之间的区别——比其他人更严格地观察到，正如一位拜占庭隐士的内疚回忆所表明的那样：
“当我还是个小男孩的时候，和其他孩子一起外出时，我常常吃花楸浆果，他们常常去偷无花果。有一次他们跑了，掉了一个无花果，我捡起来吃了。每次我想起这件事，我都会坐下来哭。（这位修士他应该不吃无花果吧（自己联系上下文猜的））
未完待续！
新 年 快 乐 ！
