（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第二十五部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订 

[3] On wine drinking

关于饮酒

 Wine made from ripened, fully sweet grapes is hot and wine made from unripe and not fully sweet grapes has less heat. White wine, too, is lower in heat. Red wine is thick and indigestible because of the excess of earthy substance in the black grape and because of its astringency. Golden, austere wine, midway between sweetness and astringency, is the hottest of all wines and the most nourishing: this type of wine is suitable for the old and for those with a cold temperament. Those with a hotter temperament are advised to drink light and white wine, while, for people who are exhausted, black, sweet and astringent wine is suitable because of their slow digestions. Young wine is more nutritious, and produces the full quantity of blood. Old wine is more rapidly digested, drier, and less nourishing than young.

          Wine heats the stomach, discharges the thinned product of digestion to the veins throughout the body, encourages digestion and thins food residues; it also rekindles natural heat and makes plenty of blood. Drinking wine to repletion, and continual drunkenness, harm certain parts of the body such as the liver, the brain and the nerves. They produce a tremor of the whole body and cause heavy and disgusting diseases: they cause heartburn, regurgitation, weakening of the eyes, general paralysis. Wine drunk in moderation restores the constitution and nourishes the body, in all age groups.

          Wine made from raisins is excellent to drink. It has very great heat, and is suitable for those who eat a lot of meat.

          Mead has more heat and dryness than any wine. It is suited to those with cold and moist temperaments and constitutions, and in cold weather and in cold climates. It is cleansing and purgative of thick and phlegmatic residues in the stomach. [472] It produces urine and encourages urination remarkably, and gives a good facial complexion. Some people mix in hot spices when making mead.

          用成熟的、完全甜的葡萄酿造的葡萄酒，热量较高；用未成熟的、不完全甜的葡萄酿造的葡萄酒，热量较低。白葡萄酒的热量也较低。由于黑葡萄中的泥土物质过多，以及红葡萄酒的涩味，所以用黑葡萄酿出的葡萄酒很稠，难以消化。金色、朴素的葡萄酒，介于甜味和涩味之间，是所有葡萄酒中热量最多的，也是最有营养的：这种类型的葡萄酒适合老年人和性情冷淡的人。性情较热的人建议喝淡酒和白酒，而对于疲惫不堪的人来说，由于他们消化缓慢，适合喝黑、甜、涩的酒。较新的葡萄酒更有营养价值，并且能够促进血液的循环与更新换代。老酒的促消化速度更快，但没有新酒有营养。  

          葡萄酒可以使胃部温和（甚至变热），刺激血液将消化后的营养物质运输到全身的静脉中，促进消化和稀释食物残渣；它还可以重新释放自身的热量，使血液具有活性。饮酒过量和持续醉酒会伤害身体的某些部分，如肝脏、大脑和神经。它们会使全身的颤抖，并导致沉重和令人厌恶的疾病：它们会导致胃灼热、反胃、眼睛变弱、全身瘫痪。适量饮用葡萄酒可以恢复体质，滋养身体，适用于所有年龄段的人。

          用葡萄干酿造的葡萄酒非常好喝。它有非常大的热量，适合那些吃肉很多的人。

          蜂蜜酒比任何葡萄酒都具有更多的热量和干燥度。它适合那些有寒冷和湿润气质和体质的人，在寒冷的天气或气候中。它能清洁和净化胃中的沉积物和痰液的残留物。[472] 它能刺激产生尿液并明显地促进排尿，并使人的面部肤色良好。有些人在制作蜂蜜酒时往往掺入热香料。

[4] On fruits

关于水果

 [Figs and grapes are the best of all fruits, more nourishing than any others and less productive of bad humours so long as they are fully ripe. Grape pips should be removed before eating: they cannot be digested.]

          Fresh figs have natural heat and moistness. The dried ones are extremely hot and dry: thus they produce a lot of blood and menstrual blood, move the bowels, produce gas, and harm the digestive system in those with a rather hot constitution. The harm is prevented if honey vinegar and fish sauce are taken after eating the dried figs. [When eaten with hyssop or pennyroyal they are very helpful in correcting a blocked or roughened digestive system. Those who eat them together with other foods are seriously harmed, but also effectively nourished, which is why in the ancient world they were given to athletes.] Figs also produce in the body digestive residues, lice and itches.

          Grapes are hot and moist. As they increase in sweetness, so they increase in heat. White grapes have more heat than black: they nourish and thicken the body.

          Dates have thickness and heat and are very nourishing. They produce headache and blockages of the digestive system; they produce a lot of seed and spermatic fluid.

          Raisins produce good humours and are nourishing.

          Sweet, ripe plums are lighter in moistness and coldness. Acid ones are colder, and also drier: they stop yellow bile and the overheating of the blood, they move the bowels, and assist in acute fevers. They are not suitable to the old or to those with moist constitutions.

           Apricots have a moist and cold nature. They quickly decompose in the stomach and turn to decay, producing moistness, fevers and headache

           Cherries are cold and moist. They quench thirst and lessen yellow [473] bile and the heat of the constitution. They move the bowels. They often cause stomach ache and turn to black bile.

           Peaches are moist and cold, and thus quench thirst. They suit those with a rather hot constitution. Because of their moistness they spoil the digestion of food and harm the sinews of the stomach. Their ill effects, as well as those of apricots and cherries, are prevented if one drinks austere wine or honey water, with ginger, after eating the fruit.

           The zest of lemons is hot, the peel cold and indigestible, the flesh cold, watery and acid.

          [Both medlars and sorbs are astringent and stop diarrhoea. Sorbs are the more astringent of the two, though with a more pleasant flavor.]

          Sweet pomegranates are hot and moist, and are advisable in diseases of the thorax and lungs. Acid ones are cold and moist, soothing overheating in the body and quenching thirst.

          Sweet apples have a moist and cold nature: they invigorate the liver and the heart. The acid ones quench thirst, encourage the digestion of food, alleviate yellow bile, and neutralize dangerous drugs of a hot nature.

          Quinces are cold and dry. They invigorate the stomach and the liver, and help those with bowel disorders. Conserved with honey and spices they strengthen the digestion and the stomach and dissolve residues. [They are very astringent: similarly, if their juice is boiled with honey to make a conserve. We are told the same of strouthomela.]

           Pears are cold and moist. Acid ones tend towards coldness and dryness. If eaten after a meal they clean the food residues from the stomach. Eaten before the meal they stop the movement of the bowels, dry the excrement in the intestines and block its progress. Thus they invigorate the stomach and prepare it for food.

          Sweet mulberries have a hot and moist nature and move the bowels. The sharp ones tend towards coldness and are suited to yellow bile.

          Sweet melons predispose towards and produce 'cholera'.2 They have a moist and cold nature: they quench thirst and cool the heat of the liver and stomach. They are unsuited to those with [474] cold constitutions. [They have a cleansing quality: they provoke urination, moisten the bowels and produce semen. When not fully ripe they act as emetics, especially if eaten in large quantity.

          Watermelons are not as moist or as productive of bad humors as melons, and are not so diuretic or so effective as emetics. Although not as good to eat as other fruits, they are better to eat than melons.

          [无花果和葡萄是所有水果中最好的，比其他任何水果都更有营养，只要它们完全成熟，就不会产生制造坏情绪的味道。葡萄的果核应在食用前去除：它们不能被消化。］

          新鲜的无花果有天然的能量和润口感。干燥的无花果吃起来非常干燥：因此会刺激人体加速血液和经血的制造，使肠胃蠕动，易产生气体，这对体质比较热的人的消化系统产生较大的负担。如果在吃完无花果干后服用蜂蜜醋和鱼露，就可以避免这种伤害。[当与牛膝草或金银花一起吃时，它们对纠正堵塞或粗糙的消化系统非常有帮助。那些与其他食物一起吃的人，会受到严重伤害，但也会得到有效的滋养，这就是为什么在古代世界，运动员常吃这些水果。］ 无花果也会在体内消化道产生残留物、刺激物。

          葡萄是热的和湿的。随着它们的甜度增加，它们的热量也在增加。白葡萄比黑葡萄具有更多的热量：它们能滋养身体并使之变强壮。

          枣子热量也很高，非常滋补。它们也容易产生头痛、使消化系统堵塞等问题；不过它们能补充精液。

          葡萄干可以让人保持良好心情，且具有滋养作用。

          甜的、成熟的李子在湿润度和冷度方面都比较轻。酸性的更冷，也更干燥：它们能阻止黄色胆汁和血液过热，它们能帮助肠道运动，并有助于治疗急性发烧。但它们不适合老年人或体湿的人。

           杏子具有湿润和寒冷的性质。它们在胃里很快就会被分解，变得腐烂，进食过多容易在胃内产生气体、引诱发烧和头痛。

           樱桃性寒、湿润。它们能解渴，减少 [473] 黄色胆汁和体质过多的热量。它们能使肠子蠕动。它们经常引起胃痛并变成黑色的胆汁。

            桃子是湿润和寒冷的，因此可以解渴。它们适合体质较热的人。由于其湿润性，它们会破坏食物的消化，损害胃部蠕动。如果在吃完水果后喝些淡酒或蜂蜜水，再加上生姜，就能避免它们以及杏和樱桃的不良影响。

           柠檬的皮是热的，果皮是冷的，不容易消化，果肉是冷的，水样的，酸的。

           [枸杞子和苏木都有收敛作用，可以止泻。醋栗是这两种食物中比较涩的，但味道比较好。］

           甜石榴是热的和湿的，对胸腔和肺部疾病有好处。酸性的石榴冷而湿润，可舒缓身体的过热，并可解渴。

           甜苹果具有湿润和寒冷的性质：它们能使肝脏和心脏恢复活力。酸性特性可以解渴，促进食物消化，缓解黄胆，并中和热性的危险药物。

           榅桲是寒冷和干燥的。它们能使胃和肝脏恢复活力，并帮助那些有肠道疾病的人。与蜂蜜和香料一起保存，可以加强消化和胃部溶解残渣的能力。[它们非常收敛：同样，如果将它们的汁液与蜂蜜一起煮成汤汁，也是如此。我们被告知，strouthomela也是如此。］

           梨是寒冷和湿润的。酸性的倾向于寒冷和干燥。如果在饭后吃，它们有助于消化胃中的食物残渣。如果在饭前吃，它们会阻碍肠子的运动，使肠子里的排泄物变干，并阻止其前进。因此，它们能促进胃部蠕动，也会阻碍消化。

           甜的桑葚具有热和湿的性质，能促进肠道运动。酸涩的则倾向于寒冷，适合于黄胆。

           甜瓜容易诱发 "伤寒"。它们具有湿润和寒冷的性质：它们可以解渴并冷却肝脏和胃的热量。它们不适合体质寒冷的人。[它们具有清洁的特性：它们能促进排尿，湿润肠道并产生精液。如果没有完全成熟，它们会起到催吐的作用，尤其是在大量食用的情况下。

           西瓜不像甜瓜那样湿润，也不像甜瓜那样能产生坏的体液，也不像催吐剂那样利尿或排泄。虽然口感不如其他水果，但比甜瓜更好吃。

未完待续！