（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十九部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
Chapter 5 Rulers of the World
第五章 世界的统治者
Legend and reality
传说与现实
Odo of Deuil, quoted in chapter one, alludes to street crime in the dark alleys of the vast city of Constantinople. His Crusader companions had every reason to be fearful during their stay outside the walls and their occasional visits inside - and not simply because the city they were visiting was far bigger than any other known to them. The time they spent within the frontiers of the Empire had in any case been punctuated by misunderstanding, open distrust, famine, vandalism and military skirmishes. Rather few of them survived to return to the West. The bitter memories of those who did so lived on in memoirs like Odo's. They were of such compelling interest to others that they were fictionalized in legend and poetry.
第一章引用的“哀恸的奥多”暗示了在君士坦丁堡的黑暗小巷中的街头犯罪。 他的十字军同伴们完全有理由在城外逗留和偶尔进城内时感到惶恐——不仅仅是因为他们所访问的城市比他们所知道的任何其他城市都要大得多。 他们在帝国边境度过的时光无论如何，都被人们误解和公开的不信任、饥荒、破坏和军事冲突所打断。 他们中很少有人幸存下来返回西方。 那些这样做的人的痛苦回忆，在像奥多的回忆录中一直存在。他们的事迹对其他人具有如此强烈的吸引力，以至于他们在传说和诗歌中被虚构化。
Most of this book is an attempt to recreate the food culture of medieval Constantinople, as it was really experienced by those who inhabited or visited the city: it is based on what they themselves wrote about it. But there is another history, the history of how Constantinople seemed to those who never went there. It was one of the three most famous cities of the medieval West, rivalling Rome and Jerusalem in the frequency with which it cropped up in epics, verse romances and prose fantasy. The original audience for the histories and memoirs quoted elsewhere in this book overlapped with the audience for romances and fantasies. An untraveled medieval Western reader's mental picture of Constantinople was a composite of real memoirs and imaginary narratives. If we ignore these, we will not realize the true magic of medieval Byzantium - a city more than half way to the edge of the world:
They steered their galley before the Isle of Bogie, where no man goes, and there are none but apes. They passed the land of Persie, and that of Femenie; they left Coine to their left, and the land of Babiloine; they saw the tower of Marroc, where King Rabaot was, and the land of Jerusalem, and they navigated the River Jordan. They coasted Costantinoble and left behind them the land of the Griffins, and sailed on till they saw nothing but sea and sky.
这本书的大部分内容，都是试图重现中世纪君士坦丁堡的饮食文化，因为它是那些居住或参观过这座城市的人真正体验过的：它是基于他们自己写的关于它的内容。但还有另一段历史，关于君士坦丁堡在那些从未去过那里的人看来的历史。它是中世纪西部最著名的三个城市之一，在史诗、诗歌浪漫和散文幻想中出现的频率可与罗马和耶路撒冷相媲美。本书其他地方引用的历史和回忆录的原始受众与浪漫史和幻想的受众重叠。一位未经历过的中世纪西方读者对君士坦丁堡的心目中的画面是真实的回忆录和虚构的叙述的组合。如果我们忽略这些，我们将不会意识到中世纪拜占庭的真正魅力——一座距离世界边缘有一半以上的城市：
他们驾驶着帆船驶向了波吉岛，那里没有人去，只有猿类。他们经过了佩尔西和费梅尼的土地。他们把科因和巴比洛因的土地留在了他们的身边；他们看到了拉巴特国王所在的马罗克塔和耶路撒冷的土地，他们航行在约旦河。他们沿着君士坦丁堡（Costantinoble）的海岸航行，把格里芬的土地抛在身后，继续航行，直到他们只看到大海和天空。
There are many such journeys in medieval romance. Some unexpectedly realistic narratives of land journeys in arid landscapes are closely based on the real discomfort, hunger and danger faced by the ordinary 'people' who were marching eastwards in great numbers on the Second Crusade in 1147. The author of the Roman de Thebes, a French romance of the late twelfth century (supposedly retelling tales from Greek mythology), had either travelled through the Balkans himself on this recent ill-fated expedition or had heard tales from those who had:
The people were numerous: they stripped the land bare, and had to go far for their food; they could not find food within three long days' march. The poor people were in great distress, the rich were in distress: they could not beg, they could not steal, and there was precious little food for ready money ...
Far off, said [the Bulgars], near Russia, along the bank of the Danube, there is a fertile country, but there is a high mountain in our way. Beyond its summit is a wide plain, well worked, farmed, levelled. There is strong Theleis wine, good meadow grain, strong big grain, and there are wide fields of vines, and orchards enough that we might all live off fruit. There are wide ploughlands and big herds of swine: pigs, sheep, fat deer in the woods, deer and stags, goats and wild boar, and plenty of cattle in the fields ...
There was terrible famine in the army, a dearth of flour. Bread was sold for pure gold, a chunk of bread for a marabotin. They lived in agony, some had lost their color: the poor, in their hunger, were sick, sallow and pale.
中世纪有很多这样的浪漫旅程。 一些关于干旱地区陆地旅行的记录有着出人意料的现实叙述，这基于 1147 年第二次十字军东征中，大量向东行进的普通“人民”所面临的真正不适——饥饿和危险。罗马德底比斯的作者， 一部 12 世纪后期的法国浪漫小说（据说是从希腊神话中重述的故事），或者在最近这次命运多舛的远征中亲自穿越巴尔干半岛，或者从以下人那里听到了故事：
人口众多：他们剥光了土地，不得不远行觅食； 在漫长的三天行军中，他们找不到食物。 穷人苦不堪言，富人苦恼：他们不能乞讨，他们不能偷窃，而现钱所剩无几。
[保加利亚人]说，远处，俄罗斯附近，多瑙河沿岸，有一个肥沃的国家，但我们的道路上有一座高山。 在它的山顶之外是一片广阔的平原，生存环境良好，耕地平整。 有烈性的泰勒斯酒，优质的草甸谷物，结实的大谷物，还有广阔的葡萄田和果园，足以让我们都以水果为生。 有宽阔的耕地和大群的猪、羊，树林里的肥鹿（雌鹿和雄鹿），山羊和野猪，田野里还有很多牛……
军队里发生了可怕的饥荒，尤其缺乏面粉。 面包以纯金的价格出售，一块面包以一个marabotin的价格出售。 人们生活在痛苦中，有些人已经失去了肤色：穷人在饥饿中生病，脸色苍白。
But the traveler’s troubles and fears were destined to be forgotten if he reached the Imperial Palace. Its wonders were themselves the stuff of legend, recalled and embroidered repeatedly in the chansons de geste, the epic poetry of medieval France. The Voyage de Charlemagne tells of the famous monarch's wholly fictional crusading expedition to Constantinople and Jerusalem, neither of which he ever visited. There was no Emperor Hugh to welcome him to Constantinople, and no palace that turned when the wind blew.
Charlemagne saw the palace lightly turning: the French covered their faces, they dared not look. The Emperor Hugh the Brave came and said to the French:
'Don't be afraid.'
'Sire,' said Charlemagne, 'will it never stand still?'
Hugh the Brave said: 'Wait a little longer.'
Evening approached; the storm subsided, and the French got to their feet. Supper was ready. Charlemagne sat at table, his brave nobles sat, and Emperor Hugh the Brave and his wife at his side, and his blonde daughter, her face beautiful and pale, her skin as white as a summer flower. Oliver looked at her and fell in love:
'May the glorious heavenly king grant me to take her to France or to the fortress of Dun, where I could do all I wished with her!'
He said it between his teeth, so that no one could hear.
Nothing that they wanted was denied them: they had plenty of game, venison and boar, cranes and wild geese and peppered peacocks. Wine and clarez was served liberally, and the jongleurs sang and played their viols and their rotes, and the French had a fine time.
但到了皇宫，那旅人的烦恼和恐惧，注定会被遗忘。 它的奇迹本身就是传说，在中世纪法国的史诗 chansons de geste 中被反复回忆和提及。 查理曼大帝之旅讲述了这位著名的君主完全虚构的对君士坦丁堡和耶路撒冷的远征，但他从未访问过这两个地方。 没有皇帝欢迎他来到君士坦丁堡，也没有随风而变的宫殿。
查理曼大帝看到宫殿轻轻转身：法国人捂着脸不敢看。勇敢的皇帝来了，对法国人说：
“别害怕。”
“陛下，”查理曼大帝说，“它永远不会静止不动吗？”
皇帝说：“再等一会儿。”
傍晚来临了；风暴平息了，法国人站了起来。晚饭准备好了。查理曼大帝坐在桌旁，他勇敢的贵族们坐在旁边，皇帝和他的妻子在他身边，还有他的金发女儿，她的脸庞美丽而苍白，她的皮肤像夏天的花朵一样白。奥利弗看着她，坠入爱河：
“愿光荣的天王赐予我带她去法国的堡垒，在那里我可以对她做任何我想做的事！”
他咬着牙说，不让任何人听到。
他们想要的东西都没有被拒绝：他们有很多野味、鹿肉和野猪、鹤、野鹅和胡椒、孔雀（？。。。）。酒和 clarez慷慨供应，杂耍者在唱歌，边演奏他们的小提琴边唱歌，法国人玩得很开心。
There were several marriages between Byzantine and European royalty. These must have caught the imagination of the poets of epic and romance, to judge by the fact that East-West marriages are part of the plot of at least six fictional narratives of the twelfth to fifteenth centuries. The Chanson de Girart de Roussillon, composed around II50, tells of embassies and of an eventual alliance between East and West that was cemented by a dynastic marriage.
In the quarter of St Sophia, near the cathedral, [the Emperor] lodged each [French prince] in a noble house. There you would have seen new silk strewn underfoot, and scented many a spice, for he had balsam burning everywhere: no other king matched his wealth.
He gave them all they wished at night, and next day sat them in his palace, and they began to talk of their business. But he showed them his strange games, and had his necromancers make a storm of rain and create powerful illusions. When he had fed them with fear, he set up more magic tricks and pleasant games, enjoyable to watch, so that they were distracted until the evening of the next day ...
Then they wanted to cross the Arm of St George, but he loaded them with costly spices and mandrake. And when he had shown them the grandchildren of God, he took them to his vaulted chamber, its floor strewn with many-colored gems. He said to each:
'Take all you want.'
He wrapped black sable pelts around their necks, he gave them rings, brooches and cups, new silk and purple and samite, and vases full of theriac and balsam.
拜占庭和欧洲皇室之间有过几次婚姻。这一定引发了史诗和浪漫主义诗人的想象，根据东西方婚姻是 12 至 15 世纪至少六个虚构叙事情节的一部分这一事实来判断。 Chanson de Girart de Roussillon 创作于 1250 年左右，讲述了大使馆以及东西方最终通过王朝联姻巩固的联盟。
在圣索菲亚区，靠近大教堂，[皇帝]将每个[法国王子]安置在一个贵族的房子里。在那里你会看到脚下散落着新丝绸，散发出许多香料的香气，因为他到处都燃烧着香脂：没有其他国王能比得上他的财富。
他在晚上给了他们所有想要的东西，第二天让王子们坐在他的宫殿里，他们开始谈论事情。但他向王子们展示了奇怪的游戏，并让他的死灵法师制造了一场暴雨，创造了强大的幻象。等他把王子们吓得够呛时，又安排了更多的魔术和愉快的游戏，看的津津有味，让王子们无法回过神来，直到第二天晚上……
王子们想越过圣乔治之臂，但他给他们装上了昂贵的香料和曼德拉草。当他向王子们展示了上帝的孙子们时，他带他们去了他的拱形房间，地板上散落着五颜六色的宝石。他对每个人说：
“随便拿。”
他把黑貂皮缠在他们的脖子上，给他们戒指、胸针和杯子、新丝绸、紫色和锦缎，以及装满紫檀和香脂的花瓶。
We now turn to the imperial reality. Does it match the magic and luxury of the poets' imaginations?
我们现在转向帝国的现实。这是否符合诗人想象中的魔幻和奢华呢？
未完待续！
