（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第二十部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
The Emperors at dinner
晚宴上的帝王
In Constantinople, beside the sea and facing east, is an imperial residence known as the Constantinian Palace. Its entrance, remarkable and impressive, is from the sea. There are marble steps that run right to the edge of the sea, guarded by marble lions and marble pillars of regal grandeur ...
在君士坦丁堡，临海而东，有一座皇宫，被称为君士坦丁宫。它的入口，面向大海，非凡而令人印象深刻。有大理石台阶直通大海边缘，由大理石狮子和富丽堂皇的大理石柱子守卫两侧......
This view of the Great Palace is the preface to the narrative of a diplomatic visit to Constantinople in 1171. The Latin king of Jerusalem, Amalric, was leader of the party. His aim was to gather military and financial support for his shaky Crusader kingdom. To the kings of the West he had sent an ambassador: to the Byzantine Emperor, far richer than any of them, geographically closer, and already linked with the Crusader kingdom by ties of marriage, he applied in person. As a crowned monarch he was accorded the rare privilege of approaching the palace direct from the sea, by the marble steps of Bucoleon.
Curtains of costly material and no less costly workmanship screened the throne room. Certain great princes welcomed the lord King at this point and led him within. I am told that this was done to maintain imperial majesty while the two made their acquaintance: I am told that among his peers, when only noblemen were present, the lord Emperor greeted the lord King with affable smiles, which, had he done so in open court, would have detracted from his dignity. After the lord King had entered the throne room, the curtains were drawn back in a moment, and we who had been left outside suddenly saw the lord Emperor, seated on a golden throne, clothed in imperial panoply. Beside him was the lord King, seated on a noble throne, though a humbler one.
这种大皇宫景观是 1171 年对君士坦丁堡进行外交访问的叙述的序言。耶路撒冷的拉丁国王阿马尔里克是该国的领导人。他的任务是为他摇摇欲坠的十字军王国提供军事和财政支持。他向西方的国王派了使者：亲自向拜占庭皇帝提出申请，这位皇帝比他们中的任何一个都富有，地理上也更接近，且已经通过联姻与十字军王国联系在一起。作为加冕的君主，他获得了难得的特权，可以通过布科伦的大理石台阶直接从海上接近宫殿。
昂贵材料和具有昂贵工艺的窗帘遮蔽了这座王室。此时，几位皇子迎了上来，领着他进去。听说是为了维持皇上的威严，二人相识：听说在同辈之中，只有贵人在场的时候，皇上就面带和蔼的笑着跟他打招呼。 公开出现，会减损他的尊严。拉丁国王进入大厅后，不一会儿窗帘就被拉开，被留在外面的我们顿时看到了坐在金色宝座上，身披皇袍的皇帝。在他旁边是皇后大人，坐在一个高贵的宝座上，虽然是一个更卑微的宝座（相较于王座）。
The narrator is William, archbishop of Tyre and historian of Outremer, of the Crusader states. He has visited Constantinople at least once before and will come here at least once more before he dies. On that last occasion (in 1180) it will be his privilege to attend two imperial weddings, those of the son and daughter of the old Emperor Manuel. In spite of his expressions of conventional distrust for 'the Greeks' and their Byzantine diplomacy, expressions several times repeated in the course of his Historia Transmarina, William (unlike, say, Liutprand of Cremona) is prepared to be impressed by the wealth and the pageantry of the imperial capital.
He repeatedly honored both the lord King himself and the members of our party with gifts of truly imperial munificence, and showed his concern for our health and welfare by frequent enquiries. The inner regions of the Palace that were closed to all but his personal staff, the altars of his private life, his sacred places never entered by ordinary people, his treasuries and ancestral repositories of everything that is desirable, these he commanded to be thrown open as if for his own household. Relics of the religion, the most precious proofs of the dispensation of our lord Jesus Christ - the Cross, the fetters, the spear, the sponge, the reed, the crown of thorns, the shroud, the sandals - all these he instructed to be shown to us. Every historic and numinous object handed down from the times of the blessed and august Constantine, Theodosius and Justinian, and stored in the treasure chests in his private apartments, was liberally displayed to us. And on holidays he several times invited the lord King, and the whole party, to noble games and entertainments. Among these were presented to us concerts with various musical instruments, and with songs of wonderful sweetness remarkable for their clever harmony; there was also singing by girls' choirs, and some admirable performances by players, not overstepping the bounds of propriety.
叙述者是威廉，他是十字军国家的提尔大主教和奥特雷默的历史学家。 他之前至少访问过君士坦丁堡一次，并且在他死前至少来了一次。 在最后一次（1180 年），他将有幸参加两场皇室婚礼，即老皇帝曼努埃尔的儿子和女儿的婚礼。 尽管他表达了对“希腊人”及其拜占庭外交的传统不信任，但在他的跨海历史的过程中多次重复表达，威廉（不像克雷莫纳的柳特普兰德）准备好被众多财富和帝都的盛况所折服。
他一再向国王本人和我们国王的成员赠送真正的皇室大礼，并通过频繁的询问来表达他对我们健康和福利的关心。皇宫的内部，除了他的亲信，他的私生活的房间，他从不被普通人进入的圣地，他的宝库和祖传的宝库，这些都被他命令打开。仿佛是为了自己的家。宗教的遗物，我们主耶稣基督时代最宝贵的证据——十字架、脚镣、长矛、海绵、芦苇、荆棘冠冕、裹尸布、凉鞋——所有这些都是他指示要向我们展示的。从受过祝福和庄严的君士坦丁、狄奥多西和查士丁尼时代传下来的每一件历史和神圣的物品，存放在他私人公寓的宝箱里，这些都被他慷慨地展示给我们。节假日，他多次邀请国王大人和其他大臣参加高尚的游戏和娱乐活动。其中包括演奏各种乐器的音乐会，以及以巧妙和声而著称的美妙甜美的歌曲。还有女子合唱团的歌声，还有杂技选手的精彩表演，但不失礼节。
In all its visitors Constantinople encouraged the same powerful impression of ancient, legendary, timeless grandeur. It was true. The Great Palace had been there ever since Constantine refounded the city, on the rocky northeastern promontory of the peninsula (the site of the old akropolis or citadel of Byzantion). Yet things did change. In fact, by the time Manuel was Emperor and Amalric paid this visit, the Great Palace was no longer the regular imperial residence, though it was still used on big state occasions such as this. For much of the time the Emperors lived at the smaller palace of Blachernae, close to the inland city wall, less exposed to the elements and to the busy seaway of the Bosporus, less hemmed in by the noisy Hippodrome and the great big city itself Manuel himself had just erected a new hall at Blachernae on whose walls were narrative pictures of the wars of Byzantium.
在所有游客中，君士坦丁堡都给人一种古老、传奇、永恒的宏伟印象。 这是真的。 自从君士 坦丁重建这座城市以来，大皇宫就一直在那里，位于半岛东北部多岩石的海角（旧雅典卫城或拜占庭城堡的所在地）。 然而事情确实发生了变化。 事实上，当曼努埃尔成为皇帝和阿马尔里克来访时，大皇宫已经不再是皇室的常规居所，尽管它仍然在重大国家场合使用。 大部分时间，皇帝都住在较小的布拉赫内宫殿，靠近内陆城墙，较少暴露于自然风和博斯普鲁斯海峡繁忙的海道中，较少被喧闹的竞技场和大城市曼努埃尔所包围。他自己刚刚在 Blachernae 建立了一座新大厅，墙上挂着拜占庭战争的叙事画。
In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, after the catastrophe of the Latin conquest, the Great Palace crumbled, and it was left to the Turkish conqueror Mehmet II to restore it.
Around the palace he laid out a circle of large and beautiful gardens, burgeoning with various fine plants, bringing forth fruits in season, flowing with abundant streams, cold, clear, and good to drink, studded with beautiful groves and meadows, resounding and chattering with flocks of singing birds that were also good to eat, pasturing herds of animals both domesticated and wild.
十三、十四世纪，在拉丁人征服的浩劫之后，大皇宫坍塌，留给土耳其征服者穆罕默德二世去修复。
他在王宫周围布置了一圈又大又美的花园，种满了各种精美的植物，时令结出果实，流淌着丰沛的溪流，清冷清澈，很好喝，小溪点缀着美丽的小树林和草地，响亮而喋喋不休。这里放牧着成群的驯养动物，也有野生动物。
Mehmet was a notable patron of architects and of landscape gardeners. This quotation from the very last historian of medieval Byzantium makes the link between the old Great Palace and what we know now as Topkapl Saray, its direct successor. The park and gardens of Mehmet II, studded as they are with the buildings of Topkapl Saray, were a recreation of the gardens that had given pleasure to the first Emperors of Constantinople.
穆罕默德是建筑师和景观园丁的著名资深人士。中世纪拜占庭最后一位历史学家的这段引文将古老的大皇宫与我们现在所知的托普卡普尔·萨雷 (Topkapl Saray) 联系起来，后者是它的直接继任者。 穆罕默德二世的公园和花园与托普卡普尔萨拉伊的建筑密不可分，是对君士坦丁堡第一任皇帝的花园的再创造。
Among the many Latin loanwords in Byzantine palace jargon was the term for a dining room, Latin trielinium, literally 'three-couch room'. It was so called because, in earlier Roman times, dining rooms had almost universally been laid out with three large couches, arranged on three sides of a square, giving room for about nine diners to recline - and in those times it was always correct to recline to eat. Although the typical arrangement of a dining room had long since changed, Palace custom at Constantinople retained the name triklinon for a dining room, and for several centuries retained the custom of reclining. The Okeanos 'Ocean' dining hall at the palace of Blachernae was sometimes used for great entertainments; and there were three famous dining halls among the buildings of the old Great Palace. One was the Triclinium of Magnaura: 'this building was diligently completed by two Emperors on whom the Cross bestowed the power to achieve good - Heraclius and his son Constantine', so we are told in a verse couplet once inscribed at its entrance and enshrined forever in the great anthology of Greek epigrams.' A second was the Trikonkhos, where there was an ever-flowing fountain. In this hall the Emperor dined in state when the wind blew: perhaps it was less draughty than the other two?
在拜占庭宫殿行话中的许多拉丁语借词中，有一个餐厅术语，拉丁语 trielinium，字面意思是“三沙发房间”。之所以这么称呼，是因为在早期的罗马时代，餐厅几乎普遍布置了三个大沙发，布置在广场的三个侧面，为大约九位食客提供了斜倚的空间——在那个时代，总是躺着吃。尽管餐厅的典型布置早已改变，但君士坦丁堡的宫廷风俗仍保留了餐厅的名称 triklinon，并且几个世纪以来一直保留着斜倚的习惯。 Blachernae 宫的 Okeanos 'Ocean' 餐厅有时被用于大型娱乐活动。在旧大皇宫的建筑之中，有三个著名的食堂。一个是马格瑙拉的三棱柱：“这座建筑是由两位皇帝辛勤地完成的，他们被十字架赋予了实现善的力量——赫拉克略和他的儿子君士坦丁”，所以被写在一首诗对联中，它曾经刻在它的入口处并永远供奉在伟大的希腊警句选集中。第二个是特里孔科斯，那里有一个不断流动的喷泉。在这个大厅里，皇帝在风起时宣布开始盛宴：也许它比其他两个更不通风？
The third dining hall was the House of the Nineteen Couches, as is here explained by Liutprand: 'There is a hall near the Hippodrome looking northwards, wonderfully lofty and beautiful, which is called Decanneacubita, the House of the Nineteen Couches. The reason for its name is obvious: deca is Greek for "ten", ennea for "nine", and cubita are couches with curved ends'. We are assisted in picturing this banqueting hall by a Muslim hostage, Harun Ibn Yahya, who was detained at Constantinople in 911.
If you lift the curtain and enter the Palace, you will see a vast courtyard, four hundred paces square, paved with green marble. Its walls are decorated with various mosaics and paintings ... To the left of the entrance is a room two hundred paces long and fifty wide. In this room are a wooden table, an ivory table, and, facing the door, a gold table. After the festivals, when the Emperor leaves the church, he enters this room and sits at the gold table.
第三个餐厅是十九榻之家，正如柳特普朗在此解释的那样：“在竞技场附近有一个大厅向北看，非常高大而美丽，它被称为 Decanneacubita，即十九榻之家。 它的名字的原因很明显：deca 是希腊语的“十”，ennea 是“九”，cubita 是带有弯曲末端的沙发。 在 911 年被关押在君士坦丁堡的穆斯林人质 Harun Ibn Yahya 协助我们描述了这个宴会厅。
掀帘入宫，便是四百步方方正方，青石铺成的大院。 它的墙壁上装饰着各种马赛克和绘画……入口的左侧是一个长两百步，宽五十步的房间。 这个房间里有一张木桌、一张象牙桌，还有一张面对门的金桌。 节日过后，当皇帝离开教堂时，他进入这个房间，坐在金桌旁。
This was, as Harun suggests, the banqueting hall that was used on great festival days. On the ninth day of Christmas, for example, the Emperor would be entertained at dinner in the House of the Nineteen Couches with traditional 'Gothic' songs and dances, which are all carefully set out with accompanying translations in the Book of Ceremonies compiled under the direction of the Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogennetus.
正如哈伦所说，这是在节日期间使用的宴会厅。 例如，在圣诞节的第 9 天，皇帝会在十九榻之家用传统的“哥特式”歌曲和舞蹈招待皇帝，在君士坦丁七世 Porphyrogennetus 皇帝的指导下编写的《仪式手册》中，所有这些内容都经过精心编排，并附有翻译。
In these various dining halls, and (on appropriate occasions) at dining halls of guilds and associations in the city, the Emperors ate. They took krama or lunch, with friends or with the whole senate; they accepted the homage of a deximon, a dinner on return from a journey; they invited the great and good of government, church and city to a grand kletorion or reception.' For how many years were the prescriptions in the Book of Ceremonies followed faithfully, as their compiler, Constantine Porphyrogennetus, surely intended? We have no idea. For the great occasions of the Palace year (and there were many great occasions), every dignitary who deserves an invitation is listed. Every loyal chorus is specified. Exchanges of convivial politeness are laid down to be spoken in half-forgotten Latin, as they must already have been spoken for hundreds of years - and the Latin is spelt out in Greek letters so that the master of ceremonies can read it, even if he will not understand it.
在这些不同的食堂中，以及（在适当的场合）在城里行会和协会的食堂，皇帝们都会去吃饭。 他们与朋友或整个参议院一起吃krama或午餐； 他们接受了恶魔的敬意，旅途归来的晚餐； 他们邀请了政府、教会和城市的伟大和善良的人参加盛大的 kletorion 或招待会。 多少年来，《礼记》中的规定忠实地遵照了它们的编纂者康斯坦丁·波菲罗根塔斯的意图？ 我们不知道。 在皇宫年的重大场合（并且有许多重大场合），每一个值得邀请的贵宾都被列出来。 每个忠诚的合唱都被指定。 欢乐的礼貌交流被规定用半被遗忘的拉丁语说，因为它们一定已经说过数百年了——拉丁语是用希腊字母拼写的，以便司仪可以阅读，即使他 不会明白的。
未完待续！
