（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十五部分）
非常感谢@游吟-晞12月和2月的充电！！！谢谢支持！
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
Chapter 4
Water and Wine, Monks and Travellers
水与酒，修道士与旅行者
water and wine
水与酒
In the monastery of St John Prodromus, said an anonymous Russian traveller of the late fourteenth century, there was a fountain of water that flowed miraculously from the Danube, hundreds of miles and many mountain ranges away. As we have seen, this monastery was one of those with a community of Russian monks, though whether these two northern connections are supposed to explain one another is not clear.
14 世纪末，一位匿名的俄罗斯旅行者说，在圣约翰普罗德罗莫斯修道院里，有一座喷泉，奇迹般地从数百英里、许多山脉之外的多瑙河中喷涌而出。如你所见，这座修道院是俄罗斯的僧侣修道院之一，尽管这两个北方的联系是否应该相互解释，尚不清楚。
Setting aside such miraculous beliefs, the water supply really did come from far to the north. Most major Roman cities had their aqueducts and Byzantium Constantinople was no exception. 'In Constantinople there is an aqueduct that brings water from the country called Bulgaria,' explained the Arab hostage Harun Ibn Yahya - and he is writing not long after the Bulgars had established themselves in what used to be northern Thrace and given their name to the region, which we still call Bulgaria. 'This water flows for a distance equal to twenty days' journey. When it reaches the city, it is divided into three channels, one to the Royal Palace, one to the prison in which the Muslims were, and a third to the baths of the nobility; the population of the city also drinks from this water, which has a slightly salty taste'. And water was commonly drunk in Constantinople.
撇开这些神奇的信念，这水源确实来自遥远的北方。大多主要的罗马城市都有渡槽，拜占庭的君士坦丁堡也不例外。 阿拉伯人质哈伦·伊本·叶海亚（Harun Ibn Yahya）解释说：“在君士坦丁堡，有一条引水渠从保加利亚地区引水。现在我们仍然称之为保加利亚。 '这水流的距离约等于二十天的路程。到了城里，分三道，一通皇宫，一通穆斯林监狱，三通贵族浴池；城里的人也喝这种水，有点咸味”。在君士坦丁堡，人们常喝这种水。
According to a dietary author (text 2 section ii), 'it is suitable for those with hot and dry temperaments, and is ideal in the hottest weather and in summer. Light, sweet water is the best of all waters, particularly if it has no bad smell. There are five kinds: spring water, well water, river water, rain water, lake water. Spring water that is pure and sweet is hot in winter, cold in summer, and is the best of all waters.'
一位饮食作者（文本 2 第 ii 节）称，“它适合那些性情炎热干燥的人，在最炎热的天气和夏季是理想的选择。淡而甜的水是所有水中最好的，尤其是在没有难闻气味的情况下。有五种：泉水、井水、河水、雨水、湖水。泉水清甜，冬热夏冷，为万水之佳。
Curiously, the statement quoted above that Constantinople's water was 'slightly salty' is supported by another, almost contemporary observer, Liutprand of Cremona. The bishop regards it as self-explanatory that his people were ill during their stay in the capital, because, instead of good wine, they had only Constantinople's salty water (salsugo) to drink!
奇怪的是，上面引用的关于君士坦丁堡的水“略带咸味”的说法得到了另一位几乎同时代的观察者克雷莫纳的柳特普兰德的支持。这位主教认为他的信徒在首都逗留期间生病是不言自明的，因为他们喝的不是好酒，而是君士坦丁堡的咸水（salsugo）！
There was plenty of wine, of course, even if Liutprand did not deign to consider it 'good'. The handbook 'Categories of Foods' is interesting not least for its summary (text 2 section iii) of the good and bad effects of wine. If 'wine drunk in moderation restores the constitution and nourishes the body, in all age groups,' it is equally true that 'drinking wine to repletion, and continual drunkenness, harm certain parts of the body such as the liver, the brain and the nerves. They produce a tremor of the whole body and cause ... heartburn, regurgitation, weakening of the eyes, general paralysis'. As an outline this can hardly be faulted. As with similar surveys in classical texts, the author describes all the most obvious symptoms of chronic drunkenness, to the point where it becomes life-threatening, without ever discussing the psychological side: addiction, or what would now be called alcoholism, is not described.
当然，这里有很多酒，即使柳特普兰德不认为它“好”。 手册“食品类别”其实很有趣，尤其是它总结了葡萄酒的好坏影响（文本 2 第 iii 节）。如果说“适量饮酒，可以恢复体质，滋补各年龄层的人”，那么“饮酒充盈，长期醉酒，对肝、脑、脑等身体的某些部位，也是同样的道理”。它们会引起全身神经震颤并引起……胃灼热、反流、眼睛虚弱、全身瘫痪”。作为大纲，这几乎不会出错。与经典文献中的类似调查一样，作者描述了慢性醉酒的所有最明显的症状，甚至包括危及生命这一点，但从未讨论过心理方面：成瘾，或者现在被称为酗酒，几乎没有描述。
The 'heat' that the same text attributes especially to raisin wine and to strong dry white wine is closely related to what we would identify as its alcohol content. It is in this light that we can understand the statement that 'wine made from ripened, fully sweet grapes is hot and wine made from unripe and not fully sweet grapes has less heat.' Wine had not been distilled. Alcohol as a constituent of wine had not been identified. Thus the effect of alcohol, the element that made grape juice differ from light wine and light wine differ from strong wine, could only be attributed to the inherent 'heat' of the beverage.
同一文本特别归因于葡萄干酒和烈性干白葡萄酒的“热量”与我们所识别的酒精含量密切相关。正是从这个角度，我们才能理解“用成熟的、完全甜的葡萄酿制的酒是颇富热量的，用未成熟的、不完全甜的葡萄酿制的酒的热度较低”的说法。酒没有经过蒸馏，尚未确定酒精作为葡萄酒的成分。 因此，酒精的作用，使葡萄汁不同于淡酒、淡酒不同于烈酒的因素，只能归因于饮品固有的“热量”。
Byzantium was an empire of Winburga, 'cities of wine', to AngloSaxon tradition in the seventh century. In the mysterious poem Widsith a well-travelled bard is made to claim: 'I have been with the Saracens and with the Seringas. I have been with the Greeks and with the Finns; with Caesar who held sway over cities of wine, over riches and desirable things and over the empire of the Romans.'
拜占庭在七世纪是盎格鲁撒克逊式的传统的温伯格帝国，是“葡萄酒之城”。 在神秘的诗歌 Widsith 中，一位游历甚广的吟游诗人声称：“我曾与撒拉逊人和塞林加人在一起。 我和希腊人和芬兰人在一起； 凯撒统治着葡萄酒之城、财富和可欲之物以及罗马帝国。
The great capital of this empire must have enjoyed a varied range of wines, transported from Thrace and western Asia Minor, the Aegean, the Black Sea shores, and sometimes even further afield, yet no medieval text gives us a survey of them: Byzantine authors are in fact willfully misleading, often slipping the names of classical Greek wines, such as Pramnian and Maronean, into what appear to be contemporary contexts.
这个帝国的伟大首都享有各式各样的葡萄酒，从色雷斯和小亚细亚西部、爱琴海、黑海沿岸，有时甚至更远的地方运来，但没有中世纪的文献让我们调查：拜占庭作家实际上是故意误导的，经常将古典希腊葡萄酒的名称（例如 Pramnian 和 Maronean）代入看似是当代的语境中。
Western travellers offer a useful corrective. William of Rubruck, looking for worthwhile presents to take from Constantinople to Khazaria, chose 'fruit, muscat wine and fine biscuit' (Report 9). There were two grape varieties that provided the favourite sweet wines of the medieval Aegean. One, yielding the vinum muscatos to which William referred, is still widely grown in many Mediterranean countries. Its name is borrowed by most modern languages from Byzantine Greek, in which moskhatos meant 'musk-flavoured'. The vineyards of Samos and Lemnos today produce muscat wine very much of the style that William might have selected. The other variety was the monembasios, French malvoisie, English 'malmsey', the typical sweet grape of Crete. Its product, in later Byzantine times, was beginning to be exported to western and northern Europe through Monemvasia, hence its name. 1 This grape is now less widespread in Greece, but was in due course found to be ideally suited to the volcanic slopes of Madeira.
来自西方的旅行者提供了一个有用的观点。鲁布鲁克的威廉在寻找从君士坦丁堡到可萨里亚的有价值的礼物时，选择了“水果、麝香葡萄酒和精美饼干”（报告 9）。有两种葡萄品种是中世纪爱琴海最受欢迎的甜葡萄酒。一种是威廉提到的葡萄，在许多地中海国家仍然广泛种植。它的名字是从拜占庭希腊语中借用的大多数现代语言，其中 moskhatos 的意思是“麝香味”。今天萨摩斯和莱姆诺斯的葡萄园生产的马斯喀特葡萄酒非常符合当时威廉可能选择的风格。另一个品种是monembasios，法国malvoisie，英语'马尔姆西'，克里特岛典型的甜葡萄。这种产品在后来的拜占庭时期，通过莫奈姆瓦夏出口到西欧和北欧，因此而得名。 而现在的希腊，这种葡萄已经不太普遍种植了，但在特殊的时候，人们发现它非常适合马德拉岛的火山斜坡。
Here are a few of the wine-producing districts favoured by Byzantine authors. Chian and Lesbian, the most honoured of all Greek wines in the Classical world, were still appreciated by travellers in Byzantine times and even under the Ottoman Empire. Writing in the sixth century AD, before the Muslim expansion, the medical writer Alexander of Tralles lists the 'heating' wines of Asia, 'lsaurian, Ascalonian, Mysian, Teruine, Gazan'. In one of the Prodromic Poems Cretan, Samian and Ganitic - from Mount Ganos in Thrace - are listed as good; Varniote, from the Black Sea port of Varna, is not so good. In other texts Euboean and Rhodian wines seem to be classed as not too far below Chian. In later Byzantine times Monembasiote appears for the first time - not a variety name, but rather the name for wines exported from Monembasia. From the mainland of Asia Minor there are Bithynian wines called Triglian and Nicaean: this is the Nicaea that served as Byzantine capital during the half-century (1204- 1261) when the Latin warriors ruled Constantinople. There is also wine from Cuzinas in the Thracesian theme in western Asia Minor. In the fourteenth century the Florentine merchant Francesco Pegolotti, in his trading manual Pratica della Mercatura, listed Triglian, Monembasiote, Cretan and Theban wines.
以下是拜占庭作家青睐的几个葡萄酒产区。 Chian 和 Lesbian 作为古典世界所有希腊葡萄酒中最受尊崇的葡萄酒，在拜占庭时代甚至奥斯曼帝国时期仍然受到旅行者的青睐。公元6 世纪，在穆斯林扩张之前，医学作家亚历山大（Alexander of Tralles）列出了亚洲的“加热”葡萄酒，“lsaurian、Ascalonian、Mysian、Teruine、Gazan”。在其中一首 Prodromic Poems Cretan、Samian 和 Ganitic——来自色雷斯的加诺斯山——被列为优秀品质；来自黑海港口瓦尔纳的 Varniote 则不太好。在其他文本中，Euboean 和 Rhodian 葡萄酒似乎被归类为低于 Chian 的品质。在后来的拜占庭时代，Monembasiote 第一次出现——不是品种名称，而是从 Monembasia 出口的葡萄酒的名称。来自小亚细亚大陆的比提尼亚葡萄酒被称为 Triglian 和 Nicaean：这是在拉丁战士统治君士坦丁堡的半个世纪（1204-1261 年）期间，作为拜占庭首都的尼西亚。在小亚细亚西部的色雷斯西亚军区中也有来自库齐纳斯的葡萄酒。十四世纪，佛罗伦萨商人 Francesco Pegolotti 在他的交易手册 Pratica della Mercatura 中列出了 Triglian、Monembasiote、Cretan 和 Theban 葡萄酒。
Resinated wine - retsina, in other words - was already popular. This was a flavour familiar in wine since very early times, for three reasons: because pine resin was used to waterproof the big earthenware vats in which wine was matured, and the earthenware amphorae in which it was stored; because an admixture of resin helped to stabilize wine and prevent spoilage; and because people had come to like it. But not everybody; not all foreigners and not all Byzantines liked retsina. Greek wine was 'owing to its mixing with pitch, resin and gypsum, undrinkable by us' said the supercilious Liutprand in the tenth century.
树脂葡萄酒——换句话说，retsina——在当时已经很流行了。这是很早以前就出现在葡萄酒种类中的一种酒，原因有三：松脂被用来作防水熟化葡萄酒的大陶罐和储存葡萄酒的陶罐；树脂的混合物有助于稳定葡萄酒并防止变质；人们开始喜欢它的味道，但不是所有人；不是所有的外国人、或所有的拜占庭人都喜欢retsina。10世纪，目空一切的Liutprand说，希腊葡萄酒“由于混合了沥青、树脂和石膏，我们无法饮用”。
Classical Greeks had believed that the only civilized way to drink wine was to mix it with water. Their usual practice was to drink it at less than half strength. Romans of the Empire had come to perceive some virtue in neat wine; but their doctors were Greek, and continued to recommend mixed wine a fa grecque to all who paid attention to medical advice. There are signs in the middle Byzantine period, at last, that the attractions of neat wine are beginning to assert themselves even to the dieticians: they permit their Byzantine readers up to three doses of neat wine on a cold winter morning (text 4 section i), and in general they seem to recommend rather stronger than half-and-half mixtures. 2 This must be the sign of a more widespread change in behaviour. In the sixteenth century, Pierre Belon, on a visit to Venetian-governed Crete, found that ancient and Byzantine customs were no longer followed.
[The Greeks] all consider it bad to put water in their wine. Their present practice is to drink equally and by turns, especially the Cretans ... with frequent little sips of their strong malmsey ... It must be understood that the Greeks' tables are usually very low, and their custom is to drink as they sit, by turns, never getting out of sequence. If anyone asked for wine out of turn he would be considered rude. The quickest at pouring has the wine-jug and pours for all the company. The custom is to drink from a small glass without a stem, and to drink all that is poured out, not leaving a drop ... They always have the water urn at hand and drink water as well, in big mouthfuls, to restore themselves. Women never take part in their banquets, and are not present when they drink and eat in company.
古希腊人认为，唯一文明的饮酒方式就是将其与水混合。他们通常的做法是喝不到一半的强度。帝国的罗马人开始从纯酒中看出一些美德。但他们的医生是希腊人，他们向所有关注医疗建议的人推荐混合葡萄酒。 最终，在拜占庭中期，有迹象表明纯葡萄酒的吸引力甚至对营养师也显而易见：他们允许人们在寒冷的冬日早晨最多喝三剂纯葡萄酒（文本 4 第 i 部分） )，一般来说，这似乎推荐的比半混合物更强。这一定是饮酒行为发生更广泛变化的标志。十六世纪，皮埃尔·贝隆在访问威尼斯人统治的克里特岛时，发现古老的拜占庭风俗已不再被遵循。
[希腊人]都认为在他们的酒中加水是不好的。他们目前的做法是平等地轮流喝酒，尤其是克里特岛人……他们经常小口啜饮浓烈的马尔姆酒……要知道，希腊人的餐桌通常很低，他们的习惯是随倒随喝， 轮流坐下，永远不要乱序。 如果有人不按顺序要酒，他会被认为是粗鲁的人。 倒酒最快的是酒壶，可以为所有人倒酒。他们习惯用没有握把的小杯子喝，倒出来的都喝，一滴也不留……他们手边总是有水瓮，喝酒的同时也喝水，恢复自己的酒力。妇女从不参加宴会，在工会喝酒和吃饭时也不在场。
Wine - product of the fermentation of grapes - was by far the most important of the alcoholic drinks available to Byzantine drinkers. There is a good reason for this: in regions where grapes grow to full ripeness, they produce a stronger and better-tasting alcoholic drink, more quickly and with less expenditure of human effort, than any rival raw material. For all that, wine was not the only alcoholic drink known in Constantinople. Mead, which is made by fermenting diluted honey and was a beverage of high status in contemporary northern Europe, was familiar. 'Mead has more heat and dryness than any wine,' according to a dietary text. 'It is suited to those with cold and moist temperaments and constitutions, and in cold weather and in cold climates ... Some people mix in hot spices when making mead' (see text 2 section 3). Beer, too, was well known in northern Europe, and barley and millet beer had certainly been produced in the southern Balkans, not far from ancient Byzantium, in Classical times. Was beer ever familiar in Constantinople? The answer is not clear; it depends on whether the Greek word written phouska and occasionally phoukas might mean beer. What it certainly meant originally, like Latin posca, was vinegar-and-water, the regular beverage of the classical Roman army on bad days. Thus Aetius gives, and Paul of Aegina repeats, a recipe for a 'palatable and laxative phouska' which includes cumin, fennel seed, pennyroyal, celery seed, anise, thyme, scammony and salt to be added to the basic liquid, which is explicitly called oxykraton 'vinegar diluted with water'. I So far, so unambiguous. But the Roman army had taken to drinking beer in such provinces of the barbarian north as Pannonia, Germany and Britain, and it seems possible that the word phouskal phoukas was eventually used as a collective term for all low-grade wine substitutes. This would explain why Simeon Seth says of phoukas that 'simply made it is cold and wet, but with spices it becomes hot and dry'; phoukas, to him, cannot be vinegar, because vinegar was not cold and wet in ancient humoral theory. He adds that ivory is more workable after steeping in beer. Phoukas is listed among foods that hurt the head in De Alimentis 3I.
葡萄酒——葡萄发酵的产物——是拜占庭饮酒者最重要的酒精饮品。这有一个很好的理由：在葡萄完全成熟的地区，与任何竞争对手的原材料相比，它们生产出的酒精饮料更浓、味道更好，而且速度更快，人力消耗更少。尽管如此，葡萄酒并不是君士坦丁堡唯一已知的酒精饮品。蜂蜜酒是由稀释的蜂蜜发酵而成的，在当代北欧是一种地位很高的饮料，大家都很熟悉。 “蜂蜜酒比任何葡萄酒都具有更多的热量和干燥度，”根据饮食文本， “它适合那些性情和体质寒冷潮湿的人，在寒冷的天气和气候中……有些人在制作蜂蜜酒时会加入热香料”（见文本 2 第 3 节）。啤酒在北欧也很有名，大麦和小米啤酒是在古典时期的巴尔干半岛南部生产的，距离古代拜占庭不远。君士坦丁堡曾经有过啤酒吗？答案不明确；这取决于希腊语单词 phouska 和偶尔出现的 phoukas可能表示啤酒。就像拉丁语 posca 一样，它最初的意思当然是醋和水，这是古典罗马军队在糟糕的日子里的常规饮品。因此，Aetius 给出了，埃伊纳岛的保罗重复的，一个“可口和通便的 phouska”的配方，其中包括小茴香、茴香籽、茴香、芹菜籽、茴香、百里香、scammony 和盐添加到基本液体中，这是明确的将oxykraton称为“用水稀释的醋”。我到目前为止，也是如此明确这种说法。但是罗马军队已经开始在北野蛮人的潘诺尼亚、德国和英国等省份喝啤酒，而且 phouskal phoukas 这个词似乎最终被用作所有低档葡萄酒替代品的统称。这可以解释为什么 Simeon Seth 说 phoukas “只是让它变得又冷又湿，但是用香料使它变得又热又干”；对他来说，phoukas 不可能是醋，因为在古代体液理论中醋不是冷和湿的。他补充说，在啤酒中浸泡后，象牙更容易使用。在 De Alimentis 3I 中，Phoukas 被列为会危害思考的饮品之一。
For all who could afford it, wine remained an everyday necessity as well as a luxury. Byzantine diplomats, when travelling in the savage north, immediately notice its absence. Those on a sixth-century embassy to the Turks of the Altai mountains reported that 'they drank wine, but not a wine pressed from the grape as ours is, because the grape vine is not native to that country and will not grow there. Some different, barbarous juice was served to them instead' (Menander Protector, History Io.3 Blockley), and it was probably kumiss, fermented mare's milk.)
对于所有买得起的人来说，葡萄酒仍然是日常必需品和奢侈品。 拜占庭外交官在野蛮的北方旅行时会立即注意到它的缺乏。 六世纪驻阿尔泰山土耳其人大使馆的人报告说，“他们喝葡萄酒，但不像我们的葡萄那样用葡萄压榨而成的酒，因为葡萄藤不是那个国家的本地物，也不会在那里生长。 取而代之的是一些不同的野蛮果汁”（Menander Protector，History Io.3 Blockley），可能是 kumiss，发酵的马奶。）
Whatever range of drinks the term phouska included, these drinks were for sale at Constantinople at drinking shops called phouskaria and were prepared and dispensed by barmen called phouskarioi. But in the Byzantine Empire, as in Imperial Rome and its provinces, few inns can claim a respectable position in literature. For Constantinople we have an epigram of the fifth century with a convincing picture of the City's amusements: 'the Zeuxippus', mentioned here, was a gymnasium and bath, or, in modern jargon, a sports centre.
On a hostelry between the Zeuxippus and the Hippodrome. On the one side I have close by me the Zeuxippus, a pleasant bath, and on the other the race-course. After seeing the races at the latter and taking a bath in the former, come and rest at my hospitable table. Then in the afternoon you will be in plenty of time for the other races, reaching the course from your room quite near at hand.
无论 phouska 一词包括什么范围的饮料，这些饮料都在君士坦丁堡名为 phouskaria 的饮料店出售，由名为 phouskarioi 的酒保准备和分配。 但在拜占庭帝国，就像在罗马帝国及其各省一样，很少有旅馆能在文学中享有可敬的地位。 对于君士坦丁堡，我们有一个 5 世纪的警句，带有令人信服的城市娱乐画面：这里提到的“宙克西普斯”是一个体育馆和浴室，或者用现代术语来说，是一个体育中心。
在 Zeuxippus 和 Hippodrome 之间的旅馆。 一方面，我附近有 Zeuxippus，一个令人愉快的沐浴，另一方面是赛马场。 在后者看过比赛并在前者洗过澡后，来我热情好客的餐桌上休息。 然后在下午，您将有充裕的时间参加其他比赛，从您近在咫尺的房间到达赛道。
It is not by chance that the poet celebrates the attractions of his chosen tavern at midday, at siesta time. In the late evening, if the ninth century rule already applied, that tavern would have been closed
Innkeepers must not open their taverns or sell wine or foodstuffs before 8 o'clock on the mornings of great feasts or Sundays. They must close them by 8 p.m. and put out every fire, because, if the customers of these inns had the right of access to them at night as well as through the day, the result might be that under the influence of drink they would be able to indulge in violence and rioting with impunity.
诗人在午睡时间庆祝他选择的小酒馆的魅力绝非偶然。 傍晚时分，如果九世纪的规则已经适用，那小酒馆早就关门了
在盛宴或周日的早晨 8 点之前，旅馆老板不得开小酒馆或出售葡萄酒或食品。 他们必须在晚上 8 点之前关闭它们。 把所有的火都扑灭，因为如果这些客栈的顾客在晚上和白天都有权进入他们，结果可能是他们在饮酒的影响下能够沉迷于暴力和骚乱、逍遥法外。
The same regulation tells us that the price of wine at taverns was fixed centrally by reference to the current market price of wine; also that wine must be served in standard measures, officially stamped. The phouskaria were certainly separate businesses, as they were also in Ottoman times; it is not clear whether they were bound by this regulation.
同样的规定告诉我们，小酒馆的葡萄酒价格是参照当前的葡萄酒市场价格集中确定的； 此外，葡萄酒必须以标准尺寸供应，并加盖官方印章。 phouskaria 肯定是独立的企业，就像在奥斯曼帝国时期一样。 目前尚不清楚他们是否受该条例的约束。
Aegean wines were exported westwards in some quantity in the Middle Ages. Cretan malmsey, like earlier Greek wines intended for long-distance export, was specially treated. Belon's description of this practice shows that the solera method of blending sherry, and the 'cooking' undergone by French fortified wines such as Banyuls and Maury, may both be traceable to medieval Greece.
The wine we call malmsey is only made in Crete, and we are able to assert that what travels furthest, to Germany, France and England, has first been cooked, for the ships that come to Crete to carry it abroad insist on loading that of Rethymo. This is well known to keep its quality for a long time, and the more it travels the better it is. In the town of Rethymo there are big cauldrons all along the harbour side, which they use to boil their wines each vintage. We do not say that all malmseys are boiled. Those of the town and district of Candia, which are only exported as far as Italy and are not expected to turn sour, are not boiled. Bur, refreshing their wines annually, they correct the old with the new and reinforce the new with the old ... Crete also produces very good muscat ... There is muscat and malmsey of two kinds, one sweet, one not sweet ... but the latter is not exported, because it is not cooked as the sweet is, and does not keep so long.
有一定数量的爱琴海葡萄酒在中世纪向西出口。克里特岛的马尔姆西葡萄酒，就像早期用于长途出口的希腊葡萄酒一样，都经过特殊处理。贝隆对这种做法的描述表明，混合雪利酒的索莱拉方法，以及巴纽尔和莫里等法国强化葡萄酒所经历的“烹饪”，都可以追溯到中世纪的希腊。
我们认为马尔姆西的酒只产于克里特岛，我们可以断言，最远到达德国、法国和英国的酒，首先是煮熟的，因为来克里特岛运送它出国的船只坚持要装载罗西莫。 众所周知，它可以长时间保持其质量，并且行驶得越多越好。 在 Rethymo 镇，海港边都有大锅，每个年份都用它来煮酒。 我们并不是说所有的马尔姆塞都是煮熟的。 坎迪亚镇和区的那些，只出口到意大利，预计不会变酸，则不煮。 布尔，每年更新他们的葡萄酒，他们用新的更换旧的，用旧的融合新的......克里特岛也生产非常好的马斯喀特......有两种马斯喀特和马尔姆西，一种甜，一种不甜.. ..但后者不出口，因为它不像甜的那样煮熟，也不会保存那么久。
未完待续！
