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(书籍翻译)拜占庭的味道:传奇帝国的美食 (第九部分)

2022-01-26 10:43 作者:神尾智代  | 我要投稿


《Tastes of Byzantium》封皮

作者生平:

          安德鲁·达尔比(Andrew Dalby)是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家,以他关于食物史(尤其是希腊和罗马帝国)的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍,获得了 Runciman(朗西曼)奖,他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium :The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订  


The calendar and the Byzantine diet

拜占庭的饮食日历

Among the translations in chapter 6, text 4 'A Dietary Calendar', attributed to a certain Hierophilus the Sophist (otherwise unknown), is a very practical piece of work. For each month of the year, January to December, the reader is informed of the ruling or dominant humour and is then advised on the choice of foods and wines, often beginning with a modest intake of spiced wine to start the day. January, the coldest month, requires three doses of aromatic wine; the appropriate meals consist of roast meats or game birds or fried fish, all served hot, and all of them sauced with the hottest spices (pepper, spikenard, cinnamon). Mustard is also recommended.

      Other aspects of regimen are not forgotten in this calendar. The recommended number of visits to the baths varies little through the year, but different soaps and lotions are specified. Lovemaking is authorized relatively frequently in winter: it is proscribed totally in June (and by implication also in July and August).

          在第6章的翻译中,文本 4 'A Dietary Calendar',归属于某位智者 Hierophilus(未知),这是一部非常实用的作品。 对于一年中的每个月,从 1 月到 12 月,读者都会被告知主导的体液,然后会被告知食物和葡萄酒的选择,通常从适度摄入香料酒开始新的一天。最冷的一月,需要三剂香酒;适当的膳食包括烤肉或野味鸟或炸鱼,全部热供应,并用最辣的香料(胡椒、甘松香、肉桂)调味。当然也推荐芥末。

          在这个日历中没有忘记其他方面的养生。建议的浴室访问次数全年变化不大,但指定了不同的肥皂和乳液。在冬季,(那啥)相对频繁(你们懂得QAQ!):在六月完全禁止(暗示在七月和八月也是如此)。

These recommendations did not exist in a vacuum. Two other imperatives had to be considered by any user of this little handbook, in addition to the health issue to which the author explicitly gives all his attention.

          这些建议并不是凭空出现的。除了作者明确关注的健康问题之外,这本小手册的任何用户都必须考虑另外两个必要条件。

Firstly, fresh foods were not available unchangingly through the year. Quite the opposite: almost all foods were in some way seasonal. It's not surprising that the vegetables Hierophilus prescribes in January are the cabbage, turnips and carrots that have been stored for winter alongside the leeks and wild asparagus that are currently available; not surprising that the list of January fruits consists of dried fruits and nuts, alongside pomegranates (because they store well) and pears (since some varieties do not ripen till early winter); not surprising that the broad beans recommended in March are dried, and therefore have to be soaked and boiled well before being 'tossed in salt and the best green olive oil'. It's quite natural that the reader is enjoined to look out for 'green olives in brine' in March, because early olives cured over the winter will now be ready for eating. It is quite natural that the scent of aromatic flowers is to be inhaled in April. Fruit-growers will work together with Hierophilus to ensure that red cherries are eaten in June, plums and melons in July, sweet apples, peaches and walnuts in September.

          一是生鲜食品全年供应不一。恰恰相反:几乎所有食物在某种程度上都是季节性的。 Hierophilus 在一月份开出的蔬菜是白菜、萝卜和胡萝卜,它们与目前可食用的韭菜和野芦笋一起过冬,这并不奇怪;一月份的水果清单包括干果和坚果,还有石榴(因为它们储存良好)和梨(因为有些品种要到初冬才成熟);毫不奇怪,三月份推荐的蚕豆是干的,因此在“加入盐和最好的绿色橄榄油”之前必须充分浸泡和煮沸。读者很自然地被要求在三月份寻找“盐水中的绿橄榄”,因为在冬天腌制的早期橄榄现在可以食用了。在四月吸入芬芳的花香是很自然的事。水果种植者将与 Hierophilus 合作,确保 6 月吃红樱桃, 7 月吃李子和瓜, 9 月吃甜苹果、桃子和核桃。

Secondly, the religious calendar enjoined certain observances - some fasts, and also some important feasts - and Christian practice was so universal in Constantinople that we should expect practically everybody's diet to be adjusted to it. We have already heard, from a tenth century Christian observer, of the Christmas dinner enjoyed at the Palace. The bolder of historians may combine these reports with the instructions given for December by Hierophilus the Sophist, or perhaps with the December verse of a doggerel dietary poem by Theodore Prodromus:

      December: I hunt hares, festival food from the wild; I fill my dishes with tasty partridges, and I celebrate the Feast of the Nativity, the greatest feast of the Word of God. Take generously of all foods, I say, and reject the melancholy cabbage.

          其次,宗教日历规定了某些纪念活动——斋戒,还有一些重要的节日——基督教习俗在君士坦丁堡是如此普遍,以至于我们应该期望每个人的饮食都会适应它。我们已经从一位 10 世纪的基督教观察家那里听说过在皇宫享用的圣诞晚餐。 更大胆的历史学家可能会将这些报告与智者希罗菲勒斯 (Hierophilus) 十二月的指示结合起来,或者可能与西奥多·普罗德罗姆斯 (Theodore Prodromus) 的一首顺口溜饮食诗的十二月诗句相结合:

          十二月:我狩猎野兔,来自野外的节日食物; 我用美味的鹧鸪填满我的盘子,庆祝耶稣降生节,这是上帝圣言中最伟大的盛宴。 我说,慷慨地吃所有食物,拒绝忧郁的卷心菜。

On the subject of cabbage in December, Theodore Prodromus and Hierophilus the Sophist are in perfect agreement. It will help us to picture the Byzantine midwinter diet if we paint in, as a backdrop, the description of the hard winter of AD 763-4. We have an eyewitness report of it from Theophanes the chronicler, who was a boy at the time.

      It was bitterly cold after the beginning of October, not only in our country, but even more so to the east, west and north. Because of the cold the north shore of the Black Sea froze to a depth of thirty cubits a hundred miles out ... Since the ice and snow kept on falling its depth increased another reentry cubits, so that the sea became dry land. It was travelled by wild men and tame beasts from Khazaria, Bulgaria and the lands of other adjacent peoples. By divine command, during February ... the ice divided into a great number of mountainous floes. The force of the wind brought them down to Daphnousia and Hieron, so that they came through the Bosporus to the city and all the way to Propontis, Abydos and the islands, filling every shore. I myself was an eyewitness and, with thirty companions, went out on to one of them and played on it. The icebergs had many dead animals, both wild and tame, on them. Anyone who wanted to could travel unhindered on dry land from Sophianae to the city and from Chrysopolis to St Mamas or Galata. One of these icebergs was dashed against the harbour of the acropolis and shattered it. Another mammoth one smashed against the wall and badly shook it, so that the houses inside trembled along with it. It broke into three pieces, which girdled the city from Magnauta to the Bosporus and were taller than the walls. All the city's men, women and children could not stop staring at the icebergs; finally, they went home lamenting and in tears, at a loss as to what to say about this phenomenon.

          在十二月的卷心菜问题上,西奥多·普罗德罗姆斯和智者希罗菲勒斯完全一致。 如果我们以对公元 763-4 年严冬的描述为背景,将有助于我们描绘拜占庭式的隆冬饮食。我们从当时还是个男孩的编年史家 Theophanes 那里得到了一份目击者报告。

          10月初之后,不仅在我们国家,而且在东部、西部和北部更是如此。 由于寒冷,黑海的北岸在一百英里外结冰了三十肘……由于冰雪不断下落,它的深度又增加了再入肘,使海变成了旱地。 来自保加利亚可萨利亚和其他邻近民族土地的野人和驯服的野兽在此旅行。神圣的命令下,在二月……冰层分裂成大量的山区浮冰。 风的力量把他们带到了达芙诺西亚和希龙,所以他们穿过博斯普鲁斯海峡到达城市,一直到普罗蓬蒂斯、阿比多斯和岛屿,填满了每一个海岸。 我自己就是一个目击者,和三十个同伴一起出去玩了其中一个。 冰山上有许多死去的动物,既有野生的,也有驯服的。 任何想旅行的人都可以在陆地上畅通无阻地旅行,从索菲亚奈到城市,从克里索波利斯到圣马马斯或加拉塔。其中一座冰山撞在了卫城的港口上并将其粉碎。 另一座冰山像猛犸象一样砸在墙上,剧烈地晃动着,里面的房屋也随之颤抖起来。 它分成三部分,从马格瑙塔到博斯普鲁斯海峡环绕着这座城市,比城墙还高。 全城的男女老少都忍不住盯着冰山看; 最后,他们悲痛欲绝地回家了,流着泪,不知道该说些什么。

The other great Christian festival, that of Easter, was preceded by the long fast of Lent, during which meat and animal products were forbidden. The date of Easter varied (it was on this very point that the Eastern and Western churches had finally split) but was most often in early April. Lent therefore normally accounted for the month of March, and that is why Hierophilus the Sophist makes no recommendations for meat in March: his readers would seldom have been able to take advantage of them. Lent itself was preceded in Constantinople by e tyrine or e tyrophagos, 'the cheese week', during which you were still allowed to eat milk, butter and cheese, but already not meat. That week began with the Sunday known in the West as Sexagesima, in Constantinople as tes apokreos, the Sunday 'of no more meat'. The end of Lent - in dietary terms - came on 'Great Thursday', the Thursday of Easter week. It was on this day, explains the princess Anna Comnena, 'that we both sacrifice and partake of the mystical Paschal lamb,' known in Greek as Paskha.' Anna borrows her phraseology from the gospels of Mark and Matthew. This domestic feast was followed, on Easter Sunday, by a public festival, in which the Emperor went in procession from the Palace to St Sophia. On this day, so the Muslim hostage Harun Ibn Yahya reported, not water but spiced wine Bowed from the fountain that lay on the route of the procession.

      On the festival day this tank is filled with ten thousand jars of wine and a thousand jars of white honey, and the whole is spiced with a camel's load of nard, cloves and cinnamon. The tank is covered so that no one can see inside. When the Emperor leaves the Palace and enters the church, he sees the statues and the spiced wine that Bows from their mouths and their ears, gathering in the basin below until it is full. And each person in his procession, as they go towards the festival, gets a brimming cup of this wine.

          另一个重要的基督教节日,即复活节,是在四旬期长禁食之前。在此期间,禁止食用肉类和动物产品。复活节的日期各不相同(正是在这一点上,东西方教会终于分裂了),但最常见的是四月初。因此,四旬期通常是在三月份计算的,这就是为什么智者希罗菲勒斯不建议三月份吃肉的原因:他的读者很少能够利用它们。在君士坦丁堡,四旬期之前是 e tyrine 或 e tyrophagos,“奶酪周”,在此期间你仍然可以吃牛奶、黄油和奶酪,但已经不能吃肉了。那一周从西方称为 Sexagesima 的星期日开始,在君士坦丁堡称为 tes apokreos,即“不再有肉”的星期日。四旬期的结束——在饮食方面——是在复活节周的星期四“伟大的星期四”。正是在这一天,安娜·科姆内娜公主解释说,“我们既牺牲又分享了神秘的逾越节羔羊,”在希腊语中称为 Paskha。安娜从马可福音和马太福音中借用了她的措辞。在复活节星期天,这个家庭盛宴之后是一个公共节日,皇帝从宫殿游行到圣索菲亚。在这一天,穆斯林人质哈伦·伊本·叶海亚报告说,游行路线上的喷泉不是水,而是五香酒。

          在节日那天,这个大罐子里装满了一万罐的酒和一千罐的白蜂蜜,整个罐子里装满了骆驼的甘露、丁香和肉桂。 水箱被盖住,没人能看到里面。 皇上出宫,进入教堂,只见佛像和酒从他们的嘴巴和耳朵里低下,聚集在下面的盆里,直到盛满。 游行队伍中的每个人,在节日时,都会得到一杯满溢的酒。

未完待续!

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