（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第三十一部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订

Text 4 A Dietary Calendar

饮食日历

The daily regimen involves not only the choice of foods and drinks but also their quantity and the frequency of meals: it involves exercise, sexual activity, baths, massage, the use and selection of soaps and lotions and other medicaments. All of these will vary depending on the climate and the seasons. It was therefore necessary to develop a general monthly regimen which anyone might follow, and that is the purpose of the Fourth and last of these dietary handbooks. The individual Byzantine reader, and most particularly the physician of any well-paying Byzantine patient, would naturally regard this as no more than a general guide, to be adjusted to the individual constitution.

Several versions of this 'Calendar' exist, some of them attributed to a certain Hierophilus the Sophist. This is a translation of the version published by Delatte in 1939. Other versions were published by Boissonade, in 1827, and by Ideler, in 1841-2 (see bibliography).

          每天的养生之道不仅包括主食和饮料的选择，还包括它们的数量和进餐的频率：它涉及运动、性活动、洗澡、按摩、使用和选择肥皂和其他洗剂以及其他药物。所有这些都会因气候和季节的变化而有所不同。因此，有必要制定一个任何人都可以遵循的寻常月度养生方案，这就是第四本也是最后一本饮食手册的目的。个别拜占庭读者，特别是任何医治拜占庭病人的医生，自然会认为这不过是一个普通的指南，而且要根据个人体质进行调整。

          这本 "日历 "有几个版本，其中一些是归功于某位希罗菲勒斯（Hierophilus the Sophist）。这是德拉特在1939年出版的版本的翻译。其他版本由Boissonade于1827年出版，由Ideler于1841-2年出版（见参考书目）。

[1] January

一月

January: sweet phlegm. Take three small doses of fine and very aromatic wine, but not too quickly. Take no food for three hours. Food should be roast lamb served hot, or roast sucking pig, and gravies spiced with pepper, spikenard and cinnamon; seasonings including Eastern caraway, pepper and spices; when roasting pork, baste it with honeyed wine; also eat pigs' trotters and head, jellied, with vinegar. Among birds, chickens, white and brakata pigeons (these are the best kinds) roasted, accompanied by spicy gravy and served hot; also quails and wrens: these if from the wild, being tough, should be well boiled and served hot. Among fish, sar [Diplodus Sargus], fried; also daurade, which like the preceding should be flavoured with spiced sauces. Among vegetables, cabbage and turnips, carrots, leeks, wild asparagus, butcher's broom, bryony shoots, to be dressed with olive oil and fish sauce; and their cooking liquor, to be drunk flavoured with spices. The cabbage is to be cooked with oil and fish sauce. Garlic suits all constitutions this month, cooked in pure olive oil. Those of robust constitutions may also take a 'dry soup',1 with pepper, spikenard, cinnamon, cloves, a little of the best storax, and just enough honey. Among garden herbs eat rocket, leek, celery and little radishes, also rue, mint and lovage. For dips use mustard, aloes, cumin and oinogaron. Among pulses, grass peas and Lathyrus Ochrus: they are to be seasoned with oil and ground cumin. Among fruits, raisins, almonds, pistachios and pine kernels; those of robust constitutions may take quince marmalade and a little lemon; pomegranate, pear, dates, cream blended with honey and spikenard and cinnamon, and durum wheat gruel.

Four baths in the course of the month; soap with sodium carbonate diluted in wine. Make a compound skin lotion by mixing 3 lb. weight aloes, I lb. myrrh, 2 egg yolks; combine these and Apply to the skin. This is the quantity per person. Apply it before you enter the bath,2 and have three bucketfuls [of water 1 poured over you, then sweat, then go into the open air and sponge the ointment off thoroughly. After washing the ointment off, rub down with cooling wine and egg yolks mixed with hot rose oil, then make love.

          一月：甜痰。服用三份小剂量的精细和非常芳香的葡萄酒，但不要太急。三小时内不要再次进食。可以吃些烤羊肉，或烤乳猪，配上用胡椒、辣子和肉桂调味的肉汁；调味品包括东方的荠菜、胡椒和其他香料；烤猪肉时，用蜂蜜酒浇在肉上烤；还可以吃些用醋腌制的猪蹄和猪头肉。禽鸟类中，鸡、白鸽和布拉卡塔鸽（这些是最好的种类）烧烤，伴有辛辣的肉汁，趁热吃；还有鹌鹑和鹪鹩：这些如果是野生的，肉质很硬，应该好好煮一下再吃。鱼类中，有油炸的Sar[Diplodus Sargus]；还有daurade，和前面的一样，可以用香料酱汁来调味。蔬菜中，卷心菜和萝卜、胡萝卜、韭菜、野芦笋、假葉樹、牡丹的嫩芽，要用橄榄油和鱼酱调味；它们的烹饪液，要用香料调味后再饮用。卷心菜要用油和鱼露烹调。本月大蒜适合所有体质的人，用纯橄榄油烹调。体质强健的人也可以服用 "干苏打 "，加入胡椒、辣根、肉桂、丁香、少量的最好的石蜡，以及足够多的蜂蜜。在花园里的草药中，可以吃rocket、韭菜、芹菜和小萝卜，还有芸香、薄荷和野菜。蘸上芥末酱，配上芦荟、小茴香和油菜。在豆类中，草豆和花园香豌豆：它们要用油和小茴香粉调味。在水果中，有葡萄干、杏仁、开心果和松子；体质强健的人可以吃榅桲果酱和少量柠檬；石榴、梨、枣、奶油与蜂蜜、刺五加和肉桂混合，以及杜伦麦粥。

          在一个月内洗四次澡；用葡萄酒稀释的碳酸钠做的肥皂。将3磅重的芦荟、1磅没药、2个蛋黄混合在一起，制成复合护肤液；将这些东西混合起来，涂在皮肤上。这是每个人的用量。在入浴前涂抹它，并将三桶水倒在你身上，并用海绵将药膏彻底洗掉。洗掉药膏后，用凉酒和蛋黄混合热玫瑰油擦拭，然后那啥（上面有原文，自己理解，之前没过审，屮）。

[2] February

二月

During this month no beet and no wild vegetables must be eaten at all, and among fish no corkwings, and no vegetable soups must be drunk except leek, celery, dill and garlic. Sauces and spices and old and aromatic wines should be taken in moderation. Meats may be eaten as in the previous list, also so-called crustacea, including oysters, crabs, lobsters, mussels, scallops and the like. Among fish, groupers, wrasses, sparaillons, parrot-wrasses, stromataioi, gobies; flavour with mustard. Dips and fruits as for January. Garden herbs and vegetables as for January; also baths, ointments and love-making as prescribed above.

          在这个月里，根本不能吃甜菜和野菜，在鱼类中也不能吃软木鱼；除了韭菜、芹菜、莳萝和大蒜，不能喝蔬菜汤。酱汁和香料以及老酒和芳香葡萄酒应适量服用。肉类可以像前面的清单一样食用，还有所谓的甲壳类动物，包括牡蛎、螃蟹、龙虾、贻贝、扇贝等。鱼类中，石斑鱼、鹦鹉螺、石斑鱼、虾虎鱼；用芥末调味。蘸酱和水果同1月份的做法。花园里的草药和蔬菜同一月一样；还有上述规定的沐浴、药膏和那啥（这里也是，看原文）。

[3] March

三月

Sweet flavours are advisable in food and drink, but in moderation: all excess is inimical to health, but small quantities are safe. Sour and bitter foods should be avoided. All kinds of fish may be eaten except those without scales; bass and grey mullet may be eaten frequently. Among pulses, emmer groats well boiled, rather watery, flavoured with honey, spikenard and cinnamon, eaten with the most aromatic of wine. Soak broad beans and boil them thoroughly with salt and good green olive oil. Also take fenugreek seed, well boiled, cold, seasoned with honey, spikenard and cinnamon; you should wash the fenugreek, rub it in the hands, then boil it until partly boiled down. If it boils down completely it becomes indigestible, constipating and bad for the bowels, but if it is not fully boiled down the same liquor, with the same bitterness, does not block the bowels. Honey will relieve its bitterness. Grass peas and Lathyrus Ochrus, ground; those with robust constitutions may take black-eyed peas, well boiled, with honey vinegar. Among vegetables eat beet, mallow, orach and all kinds of asparagus and mushroom, but not bryony or butcher's broom shoots, because these are bitter. Among conserves eat green olives in brine [kolymbadesl and olives in honey vinegar, but only from time to time. Sour foods should not be eaten, only sweet. Among fruits those already listed, with dates as wanted. Your sweet wine should be konditon including pepper, cinnamon, spikenard and cloves.

Six baths in the course of the month: for three of these, on Tuesdays, anoint with oil but no myrrh or aloes; for the other three, wash with water, on Fridays. Light, aromatic wines of the colour of olive oil. Moderate sex.

          食物和饮料中的甜味是可取的，但要适度：过量都不利于健康，但少量是安全的。应避免食用酸味和苦味食物。除了没有鳞片的鱼，各种鱼都可以吃；鲈鱼和灰乌鱼可以经常吃。在豆类中，艾玛糁煮熟后，比较水灵，用蜂蜜、穗花和肉桂调味，与最芳香的酒一起食用。蚕豆浸泡后用盐和上好的绿色橄榄油彻底煮熟。还可以取葫芦巴种子，充分煮熟，用蜂蜜、刺五加和肉桂调味凉拌；你应该把葫芦巴洗干净，在手上揉搓，然后把它煮到部分烂。如果它完全煮沸，就会变得难以消化、便秘和对肠道有害，但如果它没有完全煮沸，配上同样的酒，保持同样的苦味，就不会阻塞肠道。蜂蜜可以缓解其苦味。草豆和花园香豌豆，磨碎；体质强健的人可以吃黑眼豆，煮熟后加蜂蜜醋。在蔬菜中，可以吃甜菜、锦葵、兰花、各种芦笋和蘑菇，但不要吃荆棘或肉桂的嫩芽，因为这些都是苦的。在蜜饯中，可以吃泡在盐水中的绿橄榄[kolymbadesl]和蜂蜜醋中的橄榄，但只能时不时地吃。酸的食物不能吃，只能吃甜的。在水果中，要吃已经列出的那些，还要多吃枣。你的甜酒应该是konditon（一种传统的古罗马和拜占庭美食中的香料酒，拉丁语大致翻译成“五香酒”），包括胡椒、肉桂、刺山柑和丁香。

           一个月内要洗六次澡：其中三次，在周二，用油涂抹，但不要用没药或龙葵；另外三次，在周五，用水洗，配上淡淡的、芳香的葡萄酒，颜色如橄榄油。要保持适度的那啥（这里也是，看原文，不然过不了审）。

[4] April

四月

This month one should avoid radishes, mint, capers, pepper, basil, savory and all bitter flavours. Among meats choose those that are rich and well-fleshed: lambs that are grass-fed, not suckling, but that have been suckled by their mothers, and they may be young males or castrated; suckling kids: lean meat well boiled. With this take gravy moderately spiced with spikenard, green coriander and a little pepper, and the fruit of safflower because it relaxes the bowels. Avoid pork. Among birds, eat hens, male chickens, white pigeons, ducks and geese; lean meat well boiled. With this take gravy moderately [spiced]. Serve sweetened, while still hot. Sweet food and sweet drinks are the rule. Among fish, bass, syakia, daurade, pagre in a little well-spiced sauce; wrasse, perch, gurnard, scad, oblade, and to speak simply all tender-fleshed scaly fish are to be eaten fried, with a little spiced sauce, no excessive quantity. Avoid all dried pulses, but fresh pulses may be eaten with the meats listed above. Among vegetables eat orach, dill and coriander, all green, and lettuce, which requires moderate dressing in squill vinegar. I Also eat boiled garlic cloves with olive oil and salt, and a little leek. Avoid all dried fruits. Drink highly aromatic, anise-flavoured, and white wines.

Inhale the scents of violets, roses, lilies, wild chamomile and all aromatic flowers, and among 'dry' scents those of musk and attar of roses. Moderate love-making. Eight baths in the course of the month; soap with Gallic soap. Apply a skin lotion once in the month, with no aloes; it should contain musk, three egg yolks and rose oil.

          这个月应该避免吃萝卜、薄荷、辣椒、罗勒、咸菜和所有苦味的食物。在肉类中要选择那些营养丰富和肉质好的：用草喂养的羔羊，不是哺乳期的，而是被母亲哺乳过的，它们可以是年轻的雄性羔羊或阉割过的羊；哺乳期的羊：煮熟的瘦肉。瘦肉要用辣子、绿香菜和少量胡椒粉适量调味，还有红花的果实，因为它可以放松肠胃。要避免吃猪肉。在禽鸟类中，可以吃母鸡、雄鸡、白鸽、鸭子和鹅；瘦肉要煮熟，肉汁要适量[加香料]。趁热上桌，可以加一些糖。甜的食物和饮料是餐桌上的必需品。鱼类中，鲈鱼、西雅图鱼、达拉德鱼、帕格鱼加少许调好的酱汁；濑鱼、鲈鱼、古纳德鱼、斯卡德鱼、奥拉德鱼，简单地说，所有肉嫩有鳞的鱼都要炸着吃，加少许调好的酱汁，不要过多。避免食用所有干豆类，但新鲜豆类可与上述肉类一起食用。在蔬菜中，可以吃橙子、莳萝和香菜，都是绿色的，还有生菜，需要用乳酪醋适量拌匀。还可以吃用橄榄油和盐煮的大蒜瓣，以及少量韭菜。避免食用所有干果。适当喝些高度芳香的、有茴香味的白葡萄酒。

          闻一闻紫罗兰、玫瑰、百合、野甘菊和带有芳香的花朵的气味，在 "干燥"的气味中，可以尝试闻一闻麝香和玫瑰花的芳香。适度的那啥（此处看原文）。在一个月内洗八次澡；用高卢香皂洗浴。每月使用一次护肤液，不含芦荟，而应包含麝香、三个蛋黄和玫瑰油。

未完待续！

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