（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第八部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
Humoral theory and the need for spices
体液理论和对香料的需求
The system of nutrition spelt out by Galen, in his second-century manual On the Properties of Foods, has been among the most influential of all scientific theories. It has two branches.
盖伦在其 2 世纪的《食品特性》手册中阐述的营养系统一直是所有科学理论中最有影响力的。它有两个分支。
The first branch is 'humoral theory'. The human body has four humours, blood, phlegm, yellow bile and black bile. Ideally these humours should be in balance, but in practice they are not. According as each one of them rules a particular individual's constitution, he or she may be described as sanguine (ruled by blood), phlegmatic (ruled by phlegm), choleric (ruled by yellow bile) or melancholy (ruled by black bile). We still remember the words, even if we forget the theory that lay behind them. According to the thory, an unbalanced constitution causes one to be subject to ill health. The aim of the physician-dietician, or of the self-prescriber, is to balance the humours and to keep them balanced, which will ensure good health. To do this one must correctly identify the individual's temperament, and one must know the dietary properties of foods.
第一个分支是“体液理论”。 人体有四种体液，血、痰、黄胆汁和黑胆汁。 理想情况下，这些体液应该是平衡的，但实际上却并非如此。 根据他们每个人的特定个体的体质，他或她可以被描述为多血（由血液支配），粘液（由痰支配），胆汁（由黄胆汁支配）或忧郁（由黑胆汁支配）。我们仍然记得这些词，即使我们忘记了它们背后的理论。 根据该理论，不平衡的体质会导致身体不健康。医师-营养师或自我处方者的目标是平衡体液并保持它们的平衡，这将确保身体健康。要做到这一点，必须正确识别个人的气质，并且必须了解食物的饮食特性。
That brings us to the second branch: the 'powers of foods'. Each dietary ingredient can be located on several scales, and the two most practically important are these: What humours does it assist in producing or assist in eliminating? How easily and quickly does it act at each stage in its passage through the digestive system? Once the 'power' of each foodstuff is known, an appropriate range of foods and drinks can be prescribed in a daily regimen whose purpose is both to give sufficient nourishment and to establish the ideal balance of humours.
这就把我们带到了第二个分支：“食物的力量”。 每种膳食成分都可以分为多个等级，其中最重要的两个是：它有助于产生或消除哪些体液？它在通过消化系统的每个阶段的作用有多容易和快速？一旦知道每种食物的“力量”，就可以在日常饮食中食用适当范围的食物和饮料，其目的是提供足够的营养并建立理想的体液平衡。
That is the general purpose of the texts translated in chapter 6. Specifically, text 2 is arranged under 'Categories of Foods'; text 3 is arranged by humoral and dietary effects; text 4 is arranged as a monthly calendar. The fact that these little handbooks use the technical language of Greek humoral and dietary theory does not mean that they were intended for physicians alone. On the contrary, the manuscript compilation known as De cibis (the basis of text 3) is addressed to a seventh-century emperor, presumably by a court physician. Inconclusive as it is, the evidence suggests that numerous Byzantines - among those who had any choice of food at all - were more or less conscious of their 'constitution' and 'temperament' and gave attention to the good and bad effects of foods and drinks on these. They took advice from private physicians and dieticians, just as modern sporting and media personalities do, or they read books about diet, just as many of the rest of us do. Their reading might consist of short texts like those translated in full in chapter 6; or they might go further and study the longer works (by Simeon Seth and others) from which occasional extracts are quoted in this book. However, the really extensive textbooks on diet, such as those of Galen or the one embedded in the Medical Collections gathered in the fourth century by Oribasius, were quite evidently written for physicians and were probably read by them almost exclusively.
这就是第 6 章中翻译文本的总体目的。具体而言，文本 2 被安排在“食品类别”下；文本 3 按体液和饮食效果排列；文本 4 按月历排列。这些小手册使用希腊体液和饮食理论的技术语言这一事实并不意味着它们仅适用于医生。相反，被称为 De cibis 的手稿汇编（文本 3 的基础）是写给 7 世纪的一位皇帝的，作者可能是一位宫廷医生。尽管尚无定论，但证据表明，许多拜占庭人——在那些完全可以选择食物的人中——或多或少地意识到自己的“体质”和“性情”，并关注食物和饮料的好坏。他们听取私人医生和营养师的建议，就像现代体育和媒体人士所做的那样，或者他们阅读有关饮食的书籍，就像我们其他人一样。他们的阅读可能包括短文，如第 6 章中的全文翻译；或者他们可能会走得更远，研究本书中偶尔引用摘录的较长的作品（Simeon Seth 和其他人的作品）。然而，真正广泛的关于饮食的教科书，例如盖伦的教科书或奥里巴修斯在 4 世纪收集的医学收藏中的教科书，显然是为医生写的，而且可能几乎只由他们阅读。
We should notice the special place of spices and other powerful flavours and aromas in this system. They had greater 'powers' than ordinary foodstuffs, as might be guessed from their strong taste and aroma. Therefore, they were used, by anyone who could afford them, to make rapid and perhaps radical adjustments to the diet. Such adjustments were needed partly in response to the climate and the seasons, but also for more irregular reasons - either to treat a sudden illness or digestive problem, or to counteract the effect of inappropriate foods, or to compensate for a sudden change in life style or regimen. Travellers, for example, need greater-than-usual stamina and may not be able to eat the same foods, or at the same times, as usual. Athletes in training, or facing a major competition, equally must make adjustments to their diet.
我们应该注意到香料和其他强烈味道在这个系统中的特殊位置。从它们浓郁的味道和香气中可以猜到，它们比普通的食物具有更大的“力量”。 因此，任何能够负担得起的人都使用它们来对饮食结构进行快速甚至彻底的调整。这种调整部分是为了应对气候和季节，但也有一些不规律的原因——要么是为了治疗突发疾病或消化问题，要么是为了抵消不适当食物的影响，或者是为了弥补生活方式的突然变化或养生法。例如，旅行者需要拥有比平时更多的耐力，并且可能无法像往常一样吃相同的食物，或在相同的时间吃。运动员在训练中或面临重大比赛时，同样必须调整饮食。
Those who still live by a version of humoral theory - as do many millions of people in southern and eastern Asia - still make such adjustments to their diet, and they make much use of spices in particular in doing so. But even in modern Europe and North America, where humoral theory no longer rules, it is fashionable, under newer theories of nutrition, to make similar quick and radical adjustments to the diet with what are now called 'health foods' and 'dietary supplements'. Oddly enough, one or two of them are actually identical with herbs and spices used in medieval Constantinople.
那些仍然以体液理论为生的人——就像南亚和东亚的数百万人一样——仍然对他们的饮食进行这样的调整，而且他们在这样做时会大量使用香料。 但即使在体液理论不再占主导地位的现代欧洲和北美，在新的营养理论下，用现在所谓的“健康食品”和“膳食补充剂”对饮食做出类似的快速和彻底的调整也是一种时尚。奇怪的是，其中一两种做法实际上与中世纪君士坦丁堡使用的草药和香料相同。
In chapter 6 there is a handy summary (text 2 'Categories of Foods', sections vi-vii) of the dietary powers of some major aromatics - including some so powerful that we would call them 'drugs' rather than 'foods', and some that were not eaten at all but contributed, as wreaths, to the atmosphere of the dining room. Aromas as well as flavours were a part of dining. Medicinally, aromas were significant in their own right. Already in classical Greece manuals had been compiled detailing the health effects of aromatics - both spices and fresh plants - with special attention to their presence at banquets. When the Roman emperor Elagabalus strewed the floor of his dining room with roses, or arranged for a rain of violets to fall upon the diners, he intended the effect to be both pleasurable and health-giving. Incidentally, both roses and violets, which come first among the 'medicinal plants' in the list in text 2, were also taken internally as constituents of flavoured wines. They are accompanied in text 2 by jasmine, an aromatic plant that had by now spread both east and west from its original habitat in southwestern Asia. Basil and marjoram are also there; both are nowadays often regarded as food herbs, but they were probably not used in food or wine in medieval Constantinople.
在第 6 章中，有一个方便的总结（文本 2“食物类别”，第 vi-vii 节）。一些主要的芳香剂的饮食功效——包括一些功效非常强大以至于我们称它们为“药物”而不是“食物”，以及有些根本没有被吃掉，而是像花圈一样为餐厅的气氛做出了贡献。香气和风味是用餐的一部分。在医学上，香气本身就很重要。古典希腊的手册中已经编制了详细说明芳香剂（包括香料和新鲜植物）对健康的影响的手册，并特别注意它们在宴会上的存在。当罗马皇帝埃拉加巴鲁斯在他餐厅的地板上撒上玫瑰花，或者安排一场紫罗兰雨洒在用餐者身上时，他希望这种效果既令人愉悦又有益健康。顺便说一句，玫瑰和紫罗兰，在文本 2 列表中的“药用植物”中排在首位，在内部也被视为调味葡萄酒的成分。在文本 2 中伴随着茉莉花，这是一种芳香植物，现已从其在亚洲西南部的原始栖息地向东西方传播。罗勒和马郁兰也在那里；两者现在通常被视为食用药草，但在中世纪的君士坦丁堡，它们可能并未用于食品或葡萄酒中。
Of the true spices listed in text 2, three - saffron, cloves and nutmeg - are relatively familiar in modern Europe as food spices. All the rest have sometimes been used in food or drink: musk, ambergris, camphor and attar of roses more frequently; sandalwood and aloeswood much more rarely. It will be seen that though the majority of spices are 'hot and dry', camphor and attar of roses have exactly the opposite power, and the list as a whole allows the user to select spices with any desired combination of effects.
在文本 2 中列出的真正香料中，三种——藏红花、丁香和肉豆蔻——在现代欧洲作为食用香料较为熟悉。 其余的有时都被用于食品或饮料中：麝香、龙涎香、樟脑和玫瑰焦油； 檀香木和沉香木很少见。 可以看出，尽管大多数香料是“干热”的，但樟脑和玫瑰的焦油却具有完全相反的功效，并且整个列表允许用户选择具有任何所需效果组合的香料。
Because of the different circumstances in which dietary adjustments were needed, there were several ways of making them. Everybody needed to adjust to the seasons - see next section - so, as far as that was concerned, suitable choices of ingredients could be made when dishes and spiced wines were prepared for a whole household. But some people, depending on their 'constitutions', might have more need for certain spices than others: for these, sauces could be offered in the form of dips, giving each person the choice of how much to take. An individual who was ill, or had very particular dietary needs, might require a special dish, a specially formulated digestive to take after dinner, or a special flavoured salt to add to food. A traveller might carry a mixed spice powder to stir into whatever wine was available, or a supply of spices to improve the nutritional qualities of food cooked at inns. Rose sugar, a popular medieval confection, may well have originated in Byzantium as an easy way of harnessing the cold, moist, headache preventing power of roses to the heat of sugar. Spoon sweets, now so typical of traditional Greece, were already known (as glykismata me tas apalareas) in the twelfth century and played a similar dietary role.' Aromatic soft drinks (required on fast days) and aromatic wines were perennially popular, or, at least, continually prescribed: the ones flavoured with mastic, aniseed, rose and absinthe were especially well known. In the specimen recipes given in chapter 7, from manuscripts of the fourth-century Medical Collections of the Imperial physician Oribasius, three favourite Byzantine aromatics - saffron, mastic and storax - figure prominently. Storax boasts its own unique 'storax wine', unknown to civilizations before or after the Byzantine. Saffron and mastic are both included in the 'anise wine', if that heady concoction is truly a single recipe (some editors believe that at least two recipes have been conflated under this heading).
由于需要调整饮食的情况不同，有几种方法可以做出调整。每个人都需要适应季节——见下节——因此，就这一点而言，当为全家准备菜肴和香料酒时，可以做出合适的配料选择。但是有些人，根据他们的“体质”，可能比其他人更需要某些香料：对于这些，酱汁可以以蘸料的形式提供，让每个人选择吃多少。生病或有特殊饮食需求的人可能需要一道特殊的菜肴、晚餐后服用的特殊配方的消化剂或添加到食物中的特殊调味盐。旅行者可能会携带混合香料粉搅拌到任何可用的葡萄酒中，或者携带香料以改善旅馆烹制的食物的营养品质。玫瑰糖，一种流行的中世纪甜点，很可能起源于拜占庭，作为一种利用玫瑰的寒冷、潮湿、预防头痛的能力来加热糖的简单方法。勺子糖果，现在是传统希腊的典型，在 12 世纪就已为人所知（作为软糖），并发挥了类似的饮食作用。芳香软饮料（禁食日需要）和芳香葡萄酒一直很受欢迎，或者至少是不断开处方：用乳香、大茴香、玫瑰和苦艾酒调味的饮料尤其出名。在第 7 章给出的食谱样本中，来自帝国医师奥里巴修斯 (Oribasius) 的四世纪医学收藏手稿，三种最喜欢的拜占庭芳香剂——藏红花、乳香和斯托拉克斯——占据了显着位置。斯托拉克斯拥有自己独特的“斯托拉克斯酒”，在拜占庭之前或之后的文明中都不为人知。藏红花和乳香都包含在“茴香酒”中，如果这种令人陶醉的混合物真的是一个单一的配方（一些编辑认为至少有两个配方在这个标题下混为一谈）。
There is a real connection between - on the one hand - medieval anise wine, mastic wine and other versions of conditum, and - on the other hand - modern vermouth, absinthe, ouzo and other spiced wines and spirits. And it is still widely accepted in 2003 that, when taken at a certain time of day as part of a daily regimen, such drinks contribute to health. Yet the connection is not easy to trace in the historical record - because beliefs of this kind have not, for quite some time now, corresponded with current scientific opinion. They have been driven underground. For a different reason, as shown by the following quotation, the drinking of aromatic spirits had already become an underground affair in the Ottoman centuries that followed the fall of Constantinople.
The art [of fermenting date wine] is still remembered in Anatolia, though less commonly and rather secretively practised because it contravenes Islamic rule. It was specifically forbidden by the lawgiver Jafar, who listed wine among the 'ten pollutions'. Although outlawed, spirits are often distilled, being described as medicine to cure indigestion and colic. To improve their medicinal qualities the richer people have China root, ambergris and spices added before distillation; the common people, licorice root and the herb afiinthin or Persian wormwood, a plant that differs somewhat from the wormwood known in Europe (to whichever of them the name absinthium truly belongs). I have seen others add the root of nagir or ischir, schoenanthus verus, a plant native to Persia.
一方面，中世纪茴香酒、乳香酒和其他版本的 conditum，另一方面，现代苦艾酒、苦艾酒、茴香酒和其他香料酒和烈酒之间存在真正的联系。 并且在 2003 年仍然被广泛接受，当在一天中的某个时间作为日常养生的一部分服用时，这种饮料有助于健康。 然而，这种联系在历史记录中并不容易追溯——因为这种信念在相当长的一段时间内都与当前的科学观点不符。这种信念被埋没于尘土之中。 出于不同的原因，正如下面的引文所示，在君士坦丁堡沦陷后的奥斯曼帝国的几个世纪里，饮用芳香烈酒已经成为一种地下活动。
[发酵枣酒]的技艺在安纳托利亚仍然被人们铭记，尽管它不那么普遍而且相当隐秘，因为它违反了伊斯兰规则。立法者贾法尔明确禁止这种做法，他将葡萄酒列为“十大污染”之一。 虽然被取缔，但烈酒经常被蒸馏，被描述为治疗消化不良和绞痛的药物。有钱人为了提高药用价值，在蒸馏前会加入龙涎香和香料； 普通人，甘草根和草本植物 afiinthin 或波斯艾草，这种植物与欧洲已知的艾草有些不同（苦艾的名称真正属于它们中的哪一个）。 我看到其他人添加了 nagir 或 ischir、schoenanthus verus 的根，这是一种原产于波斯的植物。
未完待续！
