（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第二十七部分）
作者生平：
安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订
上一章
[vii] On aromatics
芳香剂
Musk is hot and dry by nature. It is suited to those with a moist and cold temperament. It dissolves aching of the head caused by phlegm. It also helps with weakness of the heart, heartburn and dysuria. It is not good for those with a hot temperament.
Ambergris is hot by nature and invigorates the brain. It cheers the heart and the stomach. Camphor is moist and cold. It helps with heat diseases of the head and body. In those who take too much of it [476] it causes sleeplessness. It cools the kidneys, reduces the seed and causes incurable diseases of the genital parts.
Sandalwood is cold and dry. It helps in heat diseases of the liver, invigorates the liver and cools any disproportionate heat in that organ.
Aloeswood is hot and dry. It helps in weakness of the head and stomach, and in excessive cold of the stomach, and in blockage of the liver and urinary system caused by coldness and moistness.
Saffron is cold and dry. It is bad for the stomach; it causes pain and heaviness in the head, and is soporific. It cheers the heart.
Cloves are hot and dry. They strengthen the stomach and the heart.
Nutmeg is hot and dry: it shares the dietary effects of cloves.
Attar of roses is cold and moist. It stops pain in the head caused by heat and by excessive drinking, invigorates the heart and helps with dysuria.
麝香的性质是热和干的。它适合那些具有湿润和寒冷气质的人。它可以化解由痰引起的头部疼痛。它还有助于治疗心脏衰弱、烧心和排尿困难。它不适合性情热的人。
龙涎香的性质是热的，能使大脑活跃起来。它能使心脏和胃部振奋。樟脑是湿润和寒冷的。它有助于治疗头部和身体的热病。对于那些服用过多的人[476]，它会导致失眠。它能冷却肾脏，减少种子，引起生殖器部位的不治之症。
檀香是寒冷和干燥的。它有助于治疗肝脏的热病，使肝脏充满活力，并冷却该器官中任何不相称的热量。
芦荟木是热而干的。它有助于头部和胃部的虚弱，以及胃部的过度寒冷，以及由寒冷和湿润引起的肝脏和泌尿系统的堵塞。
藏红花是寒冷和干燥的。它对胃不好，会导致头部疼痛和沉重，并有镇静作用。它能使心脏振奋。
丁香是热的和干燥的。它们能增强胃部和心脏。
肉豆蔻是热的和干的：它与丁香有同样的饮食效果。
玫瑰花油是冷的和湿的。它能阻止因热和过度饮酒而引起的头部疼痛，使心脏振奋，并有助于治疗排尿困难。
[viii] On various kinds of meat
各种肉类
Meat is more nourishing than any other food and makes the body healthy. Those who eat meat regularly and drink wine regularly should therefore be bled. The meats of different animals vary in their effects.
Beef is cold and dry. Veal is moderately hot and moist. Goat is cold and dry: meat of females is better than that of males, while kid is moderately cold and moist. Mutton is hot and moist by nature: one-year-old animals are better, and castrated males the best of these; lamb is particularly moist. Pork is high in moistness and relatively low in heat: this meat produces plenty of moisture in the body and a good deal of phlegm, but its moisture is neutralized if roasted and eaten with pepper or mustard.
[477] Wild goat is indigestible and produces black bile. Deer is hot by nature, light, and produces black bile: meat with fat is better. Gazelle is hot and dry, indigestible and not nourishing. Hare is cold and dry by nature, and produces black bile. Bear is cold, not nourishing, indigestible: it causes tremors and weakness in the sinews. Buffalo is cold, indigestible, heavy, not nourishing, and altogether unhealthy: those who eat it frequently develop leprosy, elephantiasis, diseases of black bile and other disgusting illnesses.
That of the domestic hen is the best and the lightest of all meats. It produces pure, healthy blood. Chicken is particularly light and digestible, and is suited to those recovering from illness. The meat of older birds is dry by nature. Chicken soup cures coldness in the intestines.
Duck has more of the heat and thickness of buffalo meat and produces a great deal of excrement. Crane is particularly indigestible and thick by nature, and produces good blood. Pigeon is hot and dry by nature: the meat of young pigeons is hot, moist and indigestible. The meat of peafowl tends towards coldness: it is light and quickly digested. The meat of small birds is hot and moist: it helps those with a cold temperament.
The heads of all animals are thicker and heavier than other parts of the body and particularly nourishing. Brain creates heaviness in the stomach and tends to be emetic: it should be eaten with pepper or mustard. [Bone marrow is sweeter and pleasanter to eat than brain, but it too may be nauseous and emetic. If well-cooked it is nourishing.]' Udders are cold, slow in digestion and very nourishing, suiting those with a hot stomach. [478] Liver is hot, slow in digestion and very nourishing. [Spleen] produces melancholic and unhealthy blood. [Lung is spongy and easily digested, but not nourishing and productive of bad humors. Heart is coarse and indigestible, but, if well cooked, nourishing and not productive of bad humors.] Intestines [also womb and tripe] are cold, indigestible and produce phlegmatic blood.
Muscle meat produces blood with little heat: red meat, with no fat, produces light, healthy blood; meat with fat produces moist blood.
The extremities of animals are light, quickly digested, and produce thin blood. [Pigs' trotters are the healthiest, followed by snouts, followed by ears. Tongue is spongy and with little blood. Testicles produce bad humors.]
肉类比其他食物更有营养，它能使身体更健康。因此，那些经常吃肉和经常喝酒的人应定期放血。不同动物的肉在效果上有所不同。
牛肉是偏寒性干燥的。小牛肉是适度热性湿润。山羊是寒性干燥的：雌性的肉比雄性的好，而嫩山羊肉是适度寒性湿润的。羊肉本质上是湿热的：一岁的动物更好，阉割过的公羊是最好的；猪肉的湿度也高，但热度相对较低：这种肉在体内会产生大量的湿气和痰，但如果烤熟后与胡椒或芥末一起吃，其湿气就会中和。
[477] 野山羊不易消化，会产生黑色胆汁。鹿肉性热，味淡，也会产生黑胆汁；有脂肪的肉比较好。羚羊性热而干，不易消化，没有营养。野兔肉性寒冷、干燥，会产生黑胆汁。熊是寒性的，没有营养，难以消化：它会导致神经颤抖和筋骨虚弱。水牛性寒，不易消化，体量虽大，但没有营养，完全不健康：吃水牛的人经常患麻风病、黑胆汁病和其他令人厌恶的疾病。
家鸡的肉是所有肉类中最好的。它能产生纯净、健康的血液。鸡肉特别清淡，容易消化，适合病后恢复的人食用。老鸡的肉本质上是干燥的。鸡汤可以治疗肠道内的寒症。
鸭肉有更多超过水牛肉的热量，但容易产生大量的排泄物。鹤肉特别不容易消化，性质厚实，能产生良好的血液。鸽子天性燥热：年轻鸽子的肉是热的、湿的和难以消化的。鸽子的肉趋向于寒冷：它很轻，而且人进食后消化很快。小鸟的肉是热的和湿的：它有助于那些性情寒冷的人消化。
所有动物的头部都比身体的其他部分厚重，特别有营养。脑部会使胃部产生沉重感，并倾向于催吐：应与胡椒或芥末一起吃。[骨髓比大脑更甜，吃起来更舒服，但它也可能让人恶心和呕吐。如果烹调得当，它是有营养的。］ 乳头是冷的，消化缓慢，非常有营养，适合胃热的人。[478] 肝脏是热的，消化缓慢，非常滋补。[脾脏]产生忧郁的和不健康的血液。[肺是海绵状的，容易消化，但没有营养，会产生坏情绪。心是粗糙的，不容易消化，但如果烹调得好，则有营养，也不会让人产生坏情绪。］ 肠子[还有子宫和肚皮]是冷的，难以消化，并易产生痰血。
肌肉产生的血液没有什么热量：红肉，没有脂肪，产生轻盈、健康的血液；有脂肪的肉产生湿润的血液。
动物的四肢很轻，很快被消化，产生稀薄的血液。[猪的蹄子是最健康的，其次是鼻子，然后是耳朵。舌头是海绵状的，血液很少。睾丸会产生不良体液。］
（这个血液的“轻薄”或“厚重”是体液理论中的一种说法，寒性或湿性也是如此）
[Fix] On eggs
鸡蛋
Those of domestic hens are the best of all eggs; those of partridges are just as good. All those of ducks and peahens are heavy and indigestible. Those of small birds are hot and lacking in nourishment.
Yolk or yellow of egg is moderately hot. The white is cold and indigestible; it helps in roughness of the chest and lungs and is strengthening. Taken with vinegar it stops the bowels.
家养母鸡的鸡蛋是所有鸡蛋中最好的；鹧鸪的鸡蛋也很好。所有鸭子和孔雀的蛋都很重，而且难以消化。小鸟的蛋偏热性，但缺乏营养。
鸡蛋的蛋黄是适度偏热。蛋白是冷的，不容易消化；它有助于改善胸部和肺部，并能增强体质。与醋一起服用可使肠道停止蠕动。
[x] On milk
牛奶
Milk is cold and moist, so it thickens the body, and helps in cases of consumption, cough when there is no fever, and burning of the urine. It does not help those with fever or headache or intestinal obstruction. Fresh milk and curds give moisture to the intestines; they help with pain in the head and heat of the stomach. Whey has the power of breaking up obstructions, so it is taken by those who need a medicine to purge the digestive system.
Butter is moist and midway between hot and cold. It is suited to those with a rather hot temperament. It alleviates roughness of the chest and [479] helps with pain in the kidneys and burning of the bladder. Young cheese without salt is nourishing and good to eat; it is easy to digest, builds up the flesh, is relatively soothing to the bowels. Other cheeses are all bad, except those made from buttermilk.
牛奶性凉而湿润，因此可以使身体变稠，饮用牛奶有助于遏制不发烧时咳嗽和小便灼热等症状。 它对发烧、头痛或肠梗阻的人没有帮助。 新鲜牛奶和凝乳为肠道提供水分； 它们有助于缓解头部疼痛和胃部发热。 乳清具有分解沉积物的能力，因此需要药物来清除消化系统的人会服用它。
黄油是湿润的，介于冷热之间。 它适合那些热性体质的人。 它可以减轻胸部的粗糙度，[479] 有助于缓解肾脏疼痛和膀胱灼热。没有加盐的新鲜奶酪营养丰富，很好吃； 容易消化，可以增肌，对肠胃也比较舒缓。 除了用酪乳制成的奶酪外，其他奶酪都不好。
[xi] On fish
鱼
Grey mullet is rather unhealthy in that it customarily feeds on mud; fish from the deep sea would be better; those from lakes even worse, but fish that come from rivers are better again, especially if swift flowing.
Oily fish are not so easy to digest. They are poor eating and produce bad humors.
Bass produces rather light blood, as do other fish. Apart from this it is not a bad food.
Red mullet has coarse, friable flesh and for this reason gives more nourishment than other fish, when well cooked. Good are the red mullets that feed in clear water, where there is no weed.
Inshore fish offer healthy and easily digested nourishment. Other fish produce poor blood; these produce well-balanced, good blood.
The goby is one of the best. Those of sandy shores and rocky headlands are pleasant to the taste; they are easy to digest, to assimilate and to convert to good humors. Those of lakes and of river mouths, or lagoons, are unhealthy, especially if crabs live there. Similarly, all fish from such locations are bad.
Coarse-fleshed fish are indigestible, not only in the stomach but also when the food reaches the veins and other parts. Of soft-fleshed fish, the heaviest are the weever, piper, rascasse, grouper and large red mullet.
Common to all shellfish is that there is a salty humor in the flesh, and this provokes bowel movement. Some have more of it, some less. Oysters have softer flesh than the rest; all the others are less digestible, and some of them coarse-fleshed. They are best given to those who are wasting nourishment owing to bad humors in the stomach, whether originating there or deriving from the liver. From shellfish comes a great deal of the so-called raw humor. When soft-fleshed shellfish are boiled, much of the salty humor is taken off; the flesh then becomes difficult to excrete and constipating, but drinking the cooking liquor provokes bowel movement. They include oysters, mussels, winkles, cockles and scallops.
Crustaceans are also difficult to digest, but nourishing. When boiled - like oysters - they are constipating, and resemble the coarser-fleshed of shellfish. They include lobsters, crabs [karkinoi, pagouroi] including river and sea crabs, crayfish and all other such creatures with a light shell.
Soft-bodied seafood is coarse-fleshed and indigestible, but very nourishing when digested. These foods, too, produce a great deal of raw humor. They include octopuses, squid, cuttlefish, curled octopuses and the like.
Cartilaginous fish have sweet, soft flesh, which is good for the bowels, digestible and moderately nourishing. Such are electric rays and sting-rays. Skates, rays and monkfish are less digestible, bur more nourishing, than electric rays and sting-rays.
There are no other fish in regular use among us except yska [catfish?], tuna. These are all productive of bad humors and excrement. They are to be eaten pickled or salted.
灰乌鱼相当不健康，因为它通常以泥浆为食；来自深海的鱼会更好；来自湖泊的鱼甚至更糟，但来自河流的鱼又更好，特别是水流湍急的河流。
油性鱼不那么容易消化。它们吃起来很差，而且会产生不良的体液。
鲈鱼和其他鱼一样，会产生相当淡的血液。除此以外，它并不是一种坏的食物。
红鲻鱼的肉质粗糙易碎，如果烹调得当，比其他鱼更有营养。在没有杂草的清水中觅食的红乌鱼是好的。
近岸鱼提供健康且容易消化的营养。其他鱼产生的血液很差，这些鱼产生的血液很平衡，很好。
虾虎鱼是其中的佼佼者。沙岸和岩石岬角的鱼味道宜人；它们容易消化、吸收并转化为良好的体液。湖泊和河口或泻湖的鱼是不健康的，特别是与螃蟹生活在一起的鱼。同样，所有来自这些地方的鱼都是不好的。
粗肉的鱼是不能消化的，不仅在胃里，而且当营养物质到达静脉和其他部位时也是如此。在软肉鱼中，最重的是威化鱼、琵琶鱼、拉斯卡西鱼、石斑鱼和大红乌鱼。
所有贝类的共同点是，肉中有一种咸味的新鲜感，这种味道能引起肠道运动。有些有更多的咸味，有些则较少。牡蛎的肉质比其他的软；其他的贝类都不太容易消化，其中一些肉质较粗。它们包括牡蛎、贻贝、水母、毛蚶和扇贝。牡蛎最适合给那些由于胃部的不良体液而浪费营养的人食用，不管是源自胃部的还是来自肝脏的。贝类中含有大量的所谓生津。当软肉贝类被煮沸时，许多咸味的腐殖质被去除；然后肉变得难以排泄，但饮用煮沸的酒会引诱肠道运动。
甲壳类动物也很难消化，但有营养。煮熟后--像牡蛎一样--它们有便秘作用，类似于贝类中较粗的肉质。它们包括龙虾、螃蟹[karkinoi, pagouroi]，包括河蟹和海蟹、小龙虾和所有其他有轻壳的此类生物。
软体海鲜的肉质较粗，不易消化，但消化后非常滋补。这些食物，也会产生大量的原始体验感。它们包括章鱼、乌贼、墨鱼、卷曲的章鱼等。
软骨鱼的肉质甜美、柔软，对肠道有好处，容易消化，营养适中。这类鱼有电鳐和刺鱼。鳐鱼、鳐鱼和鮟鱇鱼比电鳐和刺鱼更不容易消化，但营养更丰富。
除了伊斯卡[鲶鱼]和金枪鱼，我们没有其他经常食用的鱼。这些鱼都会产生不良的体液和排泄物。它们应该被腌制或盐渍后再食用。
未完待续！
