(书籍翻译)拜占庭的味道:传奇帝国的美食 (第二十九部分)


作者生平:
安德鲁·达尔比(Andrew Dalby)是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家,以他关于食物史(尤其是希腊和罗马帝国)的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍,获得了 Runciman(朗西曼)奖,他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium :The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订

[iv] Foods that are good to eat and strengthening
既好吃又使身体强壮的食物
[8] Relatively astringent dates, [apples,] quinces, [green] olives, kolymbades, and even more so olives preserved in vinegar, astringent raisins, bunches of grapes put up in jars, walnuts with figs.
[Artichoke,] mustard, radish, boiled turnips [thoroughly cooked], cress, young shoots of butcher's broom, grape-hyacinth bulbs [which also serve as appetizer, capers].
Lemon peel taken as digestive.
Astringent wine.
Absinthe and aloes.
[8] 相对较涩的枣子,[苹果]榅桲,[绿]橄榄,kolymbades,保存在醋中的橄榄,涩葡萄干,放在罐子里的葡萄(可能是腌制的),核桃与无花果。
[洋蓟]、芥末、萝卜、煮熟的萝卜[彻底煮熟]、水芹、金雀花的嫩芽、葡萄藤球茎[也可作为开胃菜、辣椒]。
柠檬皮可作为消化剂服用。
涩酒。
苦艾酒和芦荟。

[v] Foods that are difficult to eat
很难吃的食物
[9] Beet, which causes stomach ache when too much is eaten.
Undercooked turnip is difficult to eat, but if well-cooked it is easy to eat.
Blite, orach unless eaten with vinegar, [fish sauce] and olive oil, [fenugreek,] sesame.
Cold milk gives acute pain to those whose bowels are in a cold condition; those in a hot condition it turns to smoke in the stomach.' It is harmful to those with fever.
Melons, if not fully ripe, fill up those who are choleric. Rather than breaking down, however, they are useful as an emetic, if eaten in quantity, as long as one of the foods that produce good humours is not eaten with them.
Brain is difficult to eat, and has an emetic effect, as does bone marrow. Black, astringent wine has a pleasant acidity and has an emetic effect, [whether it is young or mature.]
[9] 甜菜,吃多了会引起胃痛。
未煮熟的萝卜很难吃,但如果煮熟了就很好吃。
Blite,orach,除非与醋、[鱼露]和橄榄油、[葫芦巴]、芝麻一起吃。
冷牛奶给那些胃寒的人带来剧烈的疼痛;那些胃热的人,牛奶会在胃里加剧疼痛。而且它对发烧的人有害。
瓜类,如果没有完全成熟,吃了容易闹心。不过,如果吃得多,它们反而可以作为催吐剂,只要不和产生好心情的食物一起吃就行。
脑子很难吃,而且有催吐性,骨髓也是如此。黑涩的葡萄酒具有令人愉快的酸度,不过也可能有催吐的作用,[无论它是青涩还是成熟的]。

[vi] Foods that break up residues and clear the digestion
能分解残渣、帮助消化的食物
[10] Barley, fenugreek, watermelon, sweet raisins, broad beans, chickpeas (especially black gram), capers (especially if eaten as a starter with honey vinegar or oil and vinegar), beet liquor and beet itself if eaten with mustard or vinegar, sorrel, grape-hyacinth bulbs, onions, garlic, [leeks, Levant garlic]. These, boiled two or three times, lose their sharpness.
Cream also thins the residues.
Figs break up the residues: hence, when eaten by those with kidney diseases, they often produce sandy urine.
Dried figs, almonds, pistachios, cabbage, honey, honey vinegar.
Light wines: if the humours are cold, old and watery wines constipate.
If there is a blockage, take fish sauce with water, and fine, light, white wines, and cooked onion and garlic. As flavourings, and especially in winter, use pepper, oregano, savory, pennyroyal and mustard. Rocket, celery, parsley, radish, mint, five-spice mixture, dill, cumin, anise, carrot: all these flavourings will go with the foods mentioned.
[10] 大麦、葫芦巴、西瓜、甜葡萄干、蚕豆、鹰嘴豆(特别是黑的)、辣椒(特别是如果作为开胃菜与蜂蜜醋或油醋一起吃的话)、甜菜酒和甜菜本身(如果与芥末或醋一起吃的话)、苏木、葡萄球茎、洋葱、大蒜、[韭菜、Levant大蒜]。这些东西,煮两三次就会失去其锋利性。
奶油也能使残留物变薄。
无花果可以分解残渣:因此,有肾脏疾病的人食用后,往往会产生沙质尿液。
无花果干、杏仁、开心果、卷心菜、蜂蜜、蜜醋。
清淡的葡萄酒:如果体质偏寒,陈年的水酒会造成便秘。
如果有堵塞,可服用鱼露加水,以及精细、清淡的白葡萄酒,还有煮熟的洋葱和大蒜。作为调味品,尤其是在冬季,可使用胡椒、牛至、香菜、菥蓂和芥末。火箭、芹菜、欧芹、萝卜、薄荷、五香粉、莳萝、小茴香、八角、胡萝卜:所有这些调味品都可以与上述食物搭配。

[vii] Foods that block the digestion
阻碍消化的食物
[11] Milk that has only a little cream is not healthy if one takes too much of it, since it harms the kidneys and produces kidney stones. Fresh and dried figs, taken after the meal, block the liver; but, mixed with oregano, hyssop or pepper and eaten before the meal, they are particularly healthy. Honey water is unsuitable to those with weak digestions. Fresh dates, and anything made with pasta or durum wheat, block the digestion, enlarge the spleen and also cause kidney stones. Wheat meal with milk, and sweet types of wine, block the digestion and build up intestinal wind.
[11] 少量奶油的牛奶,如果喝多了就不健康,因为它会伤害肾脏并易产生肾结石。新鲜无花果和干无花果在饭后食用会阻塞肝脏;但如果与牛至、牛膝草或胡椒混合后在饭前食用,则特别健康。蜂蜜水不适合消化不良的人。鲜枣和任何用面食或硬质小麦制成的食物都会阻碍消化,甚至会扩大脾脏,也会导致肾结石。小麦粉加牛奶和甜酒,会阻碍消化,导致肠胀气。

[viii] Foods that move the bowels
易活跃肠道的食物
[12] The first water from boiling lentils, [also from cabbage,] especially if flavoured with olive oil or fish sauce. Cooking liquor from hard-shelled seafood, such as lobsters, crabs and the like: if, after cooking them, you flavour the liquid with olive oil or fish sauce, as explained, or with pepper, it will loosen the bowels. Similarly, the cooking liquor of sea urchins, shellfish and snails, also of old domestic fowls. Whole meal loaves, because they contain a lot of bran. Water from cooking fenugreek, boiled with not too much honey, is useful; it purges all who have unhealthy humours in their digestive tract. Only a little honey is wanted in the boiling, because of its pungency. Kolymbades olives with fish sauce, taken before the main course. Cream with a little of the best honey. If you want to make the suggested liquids more strongly purgative, add plenty of salt. The meat of very young animals purges better than that of old ones. Beet, sorrel, garden mercury; also the liquor from boiling these, with salt. Young cheese with honey. Orach, blite, gourd, melons, figs, juicy sweet grapes, mulberries, any of these taken without any addition and eaten before food will purge the bowels. Eaten afterwards they will also eliminate any bad humours found in the system. The gourd does likewise, as do green walnuts, and also dry walnuts that have been steeped in water and shelled. Fresh plums, and dried plums steeped in honey water, whether they are eaten by themselves or taken together with the syrup, purge effectively. Drinking sweet wine [on an empty stomach] and not immediately taking a meal, but allowing it to work for a while. Fresh cherries, apricots, fresh peaches and all fresh juicy fruits, because they prepare the system for purging, but also because the humoral quality of these foods is in the middle of the range and they have no bitterness or alkalinity.
[12] 煮扁豆的第一道水,[也包括卷心菜的水,]特别是如果用橄榄油或鱼酱调味。来自硬壳海鲜,如龙虾、螃蟹等的烹调液:如果在烹调后,用橄榄油或鱼露调味,如前所述,或用胡椒粉调味,会倒胃。同样,海胆、贝类和蜗牛以及老鸡的烹饪液也是如此。全餐面包,因为它们含有大量的麸皮。煮葫芦巴的水,与较少的蜂蜜一起煮,是很有用的;它可以净化所有消化道中不健康的体液。煮的时候只需要一点蜂蜜,因为它有刺激性。Kolymbades橄榄加鱼酱,在主菜前食用。奶油加少量最好的蜂蜜。如果你想使这里所提到的液体具有更强的净化作用,可以加入大量的盐。年幼动物的肉比老的动物的肉更能好。甜菜、苏木、还有煮这些东西的酒,加盐。嫩奶酪加蜂蜜。滨藜, 藜草, 葫芦, 瓜类, 无花果、多汁的甜葡萄, 桑葚,在这些不加任何东西的食物前吃,都能净化肠道。之后再吃,它们也会消除身体系统中的任何不适感。葫芦、青核桃也是如此,还有浸泡在水中并去壳的干核桃。新鲜的李子,以及用蜂蜜水浸泡过的干李子,无论是直接吃还是与糖浆一起服用,都能有效地净化肠道。饮用甜酒[空腹],不立即进餐,而是让它发挥一段时间的作用。新鲜樱桃、杏、新鲜桃子和所有新鲜多汁的水果,因为它们对人身体系统有好处,而且还因为这些食物的体液质量处于中等水平,它们没有苦味或碱性。

[ix] Foods that settle the digestive system
使消化系统稳定的食物
[13] Astringent dates, astringent raisins, unripe mulberries, blackberries, the fruit of the azarole; more so, myrtle berries, sloes. Astringent apples, whereas the sweet ones, and those that are rather sweet than sharp, move the bowels: the same is said of pomegranates and of pears. Milk, once it has been boiled and the cream taken off. Lobsters, crabs [pagouria, karkinotl, crayfish, if boiled and the liquid drained off, get the digestion under control; similarly with oysters, mussels and the like. Lentils and cabbage, boiled twice, then (in both cases) returned to the second water and boiled vigorously till they soften; the cooking water from these also settles. Rice, broomcorn millet, [foxtail millet.]' Fried eggs. Astringent wine, white wine.
[13] 涩枣、涩葡萄干、未成熟的桑葚、黑莓、杜鹃花的果实;更多的是桃金娘浆果、苏子。涩的苹果,而那些宁甜勿涩的苹果,会使肠胃蠕动过度:石榴和梨的情况也是如此。牛奶,被煮沸并去掉奶油的那种。龙虾、螃蟹[pagouria, karkinotl, 小龙虾],如果煮熟并沥干液体,可以控制消化;同样,牡蛎、贻贝等也是如此。扁豆和卷心菜,煮两次,然后(在这两种情况下)放到另一盆准备好的水中,开大火煮,直到它们变软;这些的烹调水也会沉淀。大米,糜子,谷子。煎鸡蛋。涩酒,白酒。


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