【简译】骨螺紫（泰尔紫、腓尼基红、皇家紫）

2022-09-26 16:45 作者:神尾智代 0人读过 | 我要投稿

Tyrian purple (aka Royal purple or Imperial purple) is a dye extracted from the murex shellfish which was first produced by the Phoenician city of Tyre in the Bronze Age. Its difficulty of manufacture, striking purple to red colour range, and resistance to fading made clothing dyed using Tyrian purple highly desirable and expensive.

骨螺紫（又称皇家紫或帝国紫）是一种从骨螺科贝类中提取的染料，最早是在青铜时代的腓尼基城市泰尔生产的。它的制造难度、醒目的紫色到红色的渐变，以及抗褪色能力，使得用骨螺紫染色的衣服非常受欢迎，而且价格昂贵。

The Phoenicians gained great fame as sellers of purple and exported its manufacture to its colonies, notably Carthage, from where it spread in popularity and was adopted by the Romans as a symbol of imperial authority and status.

腓尼基人作为泰尔紫染料的销售商，声誉大增，他们将其出口到所属殖民地——特别是迦太基，骨螺紫就是从那里开始流行起来的，后来被罗马人采纳并作为帝国权威和地位的象征。

制造工艺

In Phoenician mythology, the discovery of purple was credited to the pet dog of Tyros, the mistress of Tyre's patron god Melqart. One day, while walking along the beach the couple noticed that after biting on a washed up mollusc the dog's mouth was stained purple. Tyros asked for a garment made of the same colour and so began the famous dyeing industry.

在腓尼基神话中，紫色的发现归功于泰尔的守护神梅尔卡特（梅尔卡斯或梅利卡萨斯）的宠物狗。有一天，这对夫妇在海滩上散步时注意到，狗在咬了一只被冲走的软体动物后，狗的嘴被染成了紫色。泰罗斯要求用同样的颜色制作一件衣服，于是开始出现了后来著名的染色工艺。

The first historical record of the dye is in texts from Ugarit and Hittite sources, which indicate that the manufacture of Tyrian purple began in the 14th century BCE in the eastern Mediterranean. Cloth dyed with Tyrian purple was a hugely successful export and brought the Phoenicians fame throughout the ancient world. Indeed, some historians (but certainly not all) claim that the very name Phoenicia derives from the Greek word phoinos meaning 'dark red' which refers to the dye and may itself be a translation of the Akkadian word for both Canaan and red, kinahhu. Despite their formidable reputation, the dyers of Tyre did not have a monopoly on the process even in the Late Bronze Age as four Linear B tablets from Knossos indicate that it was manufactured (albeit on a small scale) on Minoan Crete too, which also had a supply of the shellfish in its coastal waters.

关于这种染料，最早历史记录是在来自乌加里特和赫梯的文本中，这些文本表明骨螺紫的制造始于公元前14世纪的地中海东部地区。用骨螺紫染色的布是一种非常成功的出口产品，为古代世界的腓尼基人带来巨大的声誉。事实上，一些历史学家（但肯定不是全部）声称腓尼基这个名字来源于希腊语中的phoinos，意思是 "暗红色"，指的是这种染料，其本身可能是阿卡德语中迦南和红色的翻译，kinahhu。尽管泰尔的染工享有盛誉，但即使在青铜时代晚期，他们也没有垄断这一工艺，因为来自克诺索斯的四块线性B文字碑表明，米诺斯克里特岛也在生产这种染料（尽管规模很小），该岛的沿海水域也有这种贝类供应。

The dye was extracted from the fluid of the Murex trunculus, Purpura lapillus, Helix ianthina, and especially the Murex brandaris shellfish. Living in relatively deep water, these shellfish were caught in baited traps suspended from floats. The dye was then extracted from the glands of thousands of putrefied crushed shellfish left to bake in the sun. The resulting liquid was used to dye cloth fibres in manipulated variations of colours ranging from pink to violet. One can imagine the smell from the process must have been overwhelming and perhaps explains why Sidon's workshop was 14 kilometres south of the city at Sarepta.

染料是从Murex trunculus、Purpura lapillus、Helix ianthina，特别是Murex brandaris贝类的液体中提取的。这些贝类生活在相对较深的水中，被悬挂在浮子上的诱饵陷阱捕获。人们从数以千计的腐烂的碎贝类的腺体中提取原料，放在太阳下烘烤。由此产生的液体用来给布匹纤维染色，颜色从粉红色到紫色不等。可以想象，这个过程中产生的气味一定很刺鼻，也许这解释了为什么西顿的工场在城市南部14公里处的萨雷普塔。

In his Natural History the Roman writer Pliny the Elder describes how the dye extraction process had by then developed. Taking three days, salt was added to the mash of shellfish glands which was then boiled down in tins. Finally, whole fleeces were dipped into the mixture when the correct hue had been reached. Fibres were dyed before weaving them into clothes and only very rarely would completed garments have been dyed; perhaps very valuable ones might have been redyed.

罗马作家老普林尼在他的《自然史》中描述了当时染料的提取过程。人们需要三天时间，将盐加入贝类腺体的泥浆中，然后在罐子里煮沸。最后，当达到正确的色调时，将整匹毛皮浸入混合物中。纤维在织成衣服之前被染色，只有非常少的成衣会被染色；也许非常有价值的成衣会被重新染色。

According to the historian B. Caseau, "10,000 shellfish would produce 1 gram of dyestuff, and that would only dye the hem of a garment in a deep colour" (Bagnall, 5673). These numbers are supported by the quantity of discarded shells which, at Sidon for example, created a mountain 40 metres high. Such figures also explain why the dye was worth more than its weight in gold. In a 301 CE price edict from the reign of Roman emperor Diocletian, we learn that one pound of purple dye cost 150,000 denarii or around three pounds of gold (equal to around $19,000 at the time of writing). A pound of pre-dyed wool would set you back one pound of gold.

根据历史学家B.Caseau的说法，"10,000只贝类可以提取1克染料，而这只能将一件衣服的下摆染成深色"（Bagnall，5673）。这些数字得到了被丢弃贝壳数量的支持，例如在西顿，这些贝壳形成了一座40米高的山。这样的数字也解释了为什么染料的价值超过其黄金的重量。在公元301年罗马皇帝戴克里先统治时期的一份价格法令中，我们了解到一磅紫色染料需要150,000第纳尔或大约三磅黄金（在写作时相当于大约19,000美元）。一磅预先染色的羊毛会让你付出一磅黄金的代价。

Such was the demand for Tyrian purple that vast deposits of the shells have been excavated on the outskirts of Sidon and Tyre and the species was all but driven to extinction along the coasts of Phoenicia. The Phoenicians not only exported the dyed cloth but also the process of extracting the dye, as indicated by the shell deposits found at Phoenician colonies across the Mediterranean. Carthage was particularly involved in its manufacture and continued to spread its fame into Roman times and the Byzantine period. In antiquity, besides the Phoenician cities and Carthage, other known manufacturing centres included Rhodes, Lesbos, Motya (Sicily), Kerkouane (North Africa) and various other places in Asia Minor and southern Italy.

骨螺紫的需求很大，考古学家们在西顿和泰尔的郊区挖掘出了大量的贝壳矿藏，这种贝类在腓尼基沿海地区几乎被赶尽杀绝。腓尼基人不仅出口染布，而且还负责提取染料，这一点从地中海各地的腓尼基殖民地发现的贝壳矿床可以看出。迦太基参与了它的制造，并继续将其名声传播到罗马时代和拜占庭时期。在古代，除了腓尼基城市和迦太基，其他已知的制造中心包括罗得岛、莱斯博斯、莫提亚（西西里岛）、凯库安（北非）以及小亚细亚和意大利南部的其他地方。

Tyrian purple was always the finest on the market as the Phoenicians (and through inheritance perhaps also the Carthaginians) not only had access to the raw material but years of experience. They were expert at blending different species of shellfish in certain sequences of the process and adding extra secret ingredients so that only they could produce the most prized colour of all, a rich deep purple which seemed crimson when held to the light. Tyrian purple was also noted for its great durability and lack of fading. As with any luxury product, there were cheaper, if less effective, alternatives to the real thing. Purple could be produced from certain lichens or first dyeing using red (madder) and then overdyeing using blue (woad). The Gauls used whortleberry to die textiles purple, which were, ironically, then made into clothes for slaves.

骨螺紫总是市场上最好的染料，因为腓尼基人（也许还有迦太基人）不仅能获得原材料，而且有多年的染料提取经验。他们擅长将不同种类的贝类按一定的顺序混合在一起，并添加额外的秘密成分，因此只有他们才能提取出最珍贵的颜色——一种深紫色，在光线下显得深红。骨螺紫还因其强大的耐久性和不褪色而受到关注。与任何奢侈品一样，骨螺紫也有比真品更便宜的替代品，尽管效果较差。紫色可以通过某些地衣或先用红色（染色茜草）染色，然后用蓝色（菘蓝）过度染色来生产。高卢人使用山桑子将纺织品染成紫色，讽刺的是，这些纺织品后来被制成了奴隶的衣服。

用途

The primary function of Tyrian purple was to dye textiles, especially clothing. The highest quality cloth was known as Dibapha, meaning 'twice dipped' in the purple dye. Because of the time-consuming production process, the huge number of shells required, and striking colour range of finished articles, such dyed textiles were, of course, a luxury item. As a consequence, Tyrian purple became a status symbol representing power, prestige and wealth. The high value of purple cloth is further indicated by its presence on tribute lists alongside other precious goods such as silver and gold which Tyre was obliged to pay to the Assyrian kings in the 9th and 8th centuries BCE. Alexander the Great, too, was said to have come across 5,000 talents in weight of purple cloth at Susa, likely acquired through tribute and kept as a permanent deposit of high value. The still bright colour 180 years after its manufacture did much to enhance the already formidable reputation for the durability of Tyrian purple cloth.

骨螺紫的主要功能是为纺织品、特别是服装染色。最高质量的布被称为Dibapha，意思是在紫色染料中 "浸泡两次"。由于生产过程耗时，需要大量的贝壳，成品的颜色也很醒目，这种染色的纺织品当然是一种奢侈品。因此，骨螺紫成为代权力、威望和财富的象征。在公元前9世纪和公元前8世纪，泰尔必须向亚述国王缴纳金银等其他贵重物品，紫色布匹的高价值进一步体现在它出现在贡品清单上。据说亚历山大大帝也曾在苏萨得到5000磅的紫布，很可能是通过进贡获得的，并作为高价值的永久存款保存起来。这些布匹在制造180年后，它的颜色依然鲜艳，这大大提升了骨螺紫布耐用性方面的声誉。

The status-conscious Romans were particularly fond of purple garments and reserved them for the elite only. The imperial family, magistrates and some elites were permitted to wear the toga praetexta which had a purple border, and generals who celebrated a Roman Triumph could wear on their big day the toga picta which was entirely purple with a gold border. In time, the colour purple came to represent the emperor, although it was Julius Caesar who first wore the all-purple toga purpurea. By the 5th century CE purple and silk formed a winning combination, and its production became a state monopoly from the reign of Alexander Severus (222 - 235 CE). Only the emperor could wear these silk garments (kekolumena) or those lucky enough to be given his favour, and no foreigner was permitted to purchase them. Emperors were even depicted wearing Tyrian purple, too, such as the celebrated mosaic portrait of Justinian I in the Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna. Purple was long associated with the priesthood from Roman times onwards, and it was not until 1464 CE that Pope Paul II ordered the replacement of purple robes with scarlet ones for Church vestments.

注重身份的罗马人特别喜欢紫色的服装，并只有精英阶层才能穿戴这种服装。皇室成员、行政官和一些精英被允许穿有紫色边框的长袍（toga praetexta），而庆祝罗马凯旋的将军们可以在他们的大日子里穿全紫带金边的长袍（toga picta）。随着时间的推移，紫色开始成为皇帝的象征，凯撒大帝首先穿上了全紫色的紫锥菊长袍。到了公元5世纪，紫色和丝绸形成了一个成功的组合，从亚历山大·塞维鲁斯（公元222-235年）开始，骨螺紫成为国家垄断染料。只有皇帝才能穿上这些丝绸服装（kekolumena），或者那些幸运地得到皇帝青睐的人，而且不允许外国人购买这些服装。皇帝们甚至也被描绘成穿着骨螺紫衣，例如拉文纳圣维塔莱大教堂中著名的查士丁尼一世的马赛克画像就是如此。从罗马时代开始，紫色长期与神职人员联系在一起，直到公元1464年，教皇保罗二世才下令用大红色的教会法衣取代紫色长袍。

It is thought that such was the symbolism of purple in ancient Rome that even imperial monuments and sarcophagi came to include it in the form of porphyry marble which has a deep and uniform purple colour. Besides textiles, Tyrian purple was sometimes used to dye parchment and several examples of Late Antiquity texts dyed purple survive, such as the Codex Rossano.

人们认为，在古罗马，紫色的象征意义很大，甚至连帝国的纪念碑和石棺都有紫色，其形式为斑岩大理石，具有深而均匀的紫色。除了纺织品之外，骨螺紫有时也被用来给羊皮纸染色，还有几个晚期古代文本染成紫色的例子，如《罗萨诺法典》。