同一道美食在不同的地方可能会有不同的做法。但有些人认为，一道菜一定要原汁原味才行，如果听说了某家餐厅的饭菜 “不够正宗”，就会避而远之。本期节目探讨为什么人们在谈论食物时强调正宗，以及 “正宗” 的定义到底是什么。

词汇：food 食物

As a result of trade, travel and migration, different cuisines have spread across the world. Many recipes, chefs and restaurants try to claim that their example of a particular culinary tradition is the most authentic. But is this a good thing?

由于贸易、旅行和移民，不同的美食在世界各地传播开来。许多食谱、厨师和餐馆都试图宣称，他们的特定烹饪传统是最正宗的。但这是一件好事吗?

People care about authenticity because food traditions are closely linked to identity, particularly for migrant communities. Sociologist and professor of food studies, Krishnendu Ray, explains that home cooking is often the last way that communities can show their identity. British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver was accused of trying to take advantage of positive feelings about Jamaica. His ready meal product had a Jamaican name, but was unlike genuine Jamaican cooking.

人们关心食物的真实性，因为食物传统与身份密切相关，尤其是对移民社区而言。社会学家和食品研究教授克里希南杜·雷(Krishnendu Ray)解释说，家庭烹饪通常是社区展示其身份的最后一种方式。英国名厨杰米·奥利弗被指控试图利用人们对牙买加的积极情绪。他的即食食品有一个牙买加的名字，但不像真正的牙买加烹饪。

However, food consultant Sara Kay asks whether there are problems with the idea of authenticity. She highlights that these ideas often come from the expectations that majority cultures have about minority cultures and their food. These can be restricting – restauranteurs have complained that people expect Asian food to be cheaper than that from European cultures.

然而，食品顾问萨拉·凯(Sara Kay)提出了一个问题，那就是食品的真实性是否存在问题。她强调，这些想法往往来自多数文化对少数文化和他们的食物的期望。这可能是一种限制——餐馆老板抱怨说，人们希望亚洲食品比欧洲食品便宜。

Expectations can also give people a false idea of what is authentic. While large cities are full of eateries representing different countries – China, India, Italy, Mexico and more – these labels can oversimplify the reality of food from these countries. Stephanie Elizondo Greist was surprised by the difference between regional specialities in different parts of Mexico and what she ate growing up as a Mexican-American in Texas, but feels that both are authentic examples of Mexican food.

期望也会让人们对什么是真实的产生错误的想法。虽然大城市里到处都是代表不同国家的餐馆——中国、印度、意大利、墨西哥等等——但这些标签可能会过度简化这些国家食物的现实。斯蒂芬妮·埃利桑多·格雷斯特(Stephanie Elizondo Greist)对墨西哥不同地区的地方特色菜和她在德克萨斯州长大的墨西哥裔美国人吃的东西之间的差异感到惊讶，但她觉得这两种食物都是地道的墨西哥食物。

A more controversial view of authenticity was stated by American Chef Andrew Zimmern, who claimed that he could bring Chinese dishes to Minnesota in a more authentic way than existing restaurants – many of which are owned by Chinese-Americans. Writer and food podcaster Ruth Tam points out that while these restaurants altered their menus to suit local tastes, so does Zimmern. So, while food and identity are closely linked, and failure to respect authenticity can cause offence, could there be problems with the whole idea of authenticity?

美国厨师安德鲁·齐默尔恩提出了一个更有争议的观点，他声称他可以用比现有餐馆更正宗的方式把中国菜带到明尼苏达州——这些餐馆很多都是华裔美国人开的。作家兼美食播客Ruth Tam指出，虽然这些餐馆改变了菜单以适应当地人的口味，齐默尔恩也是如此。因此，虽然食物和身份密切相关，不尊重真实性可能会引起冒犯，但整个真实性的概念是否存在问题?

词汇表

cuisine 菜肴
recipe 食谱
chef 厨师
restaurant 餐馆，餐厅
culinary tradition 烹饪传统
food tradition 饮食传统
food studies 食品研究
home cooking 家庭烹饪
celebrity chef 明星大厨
ready meal 即食餐，方便食品
cooking （用特定方法烹制的）饭菜
restauranteur 餐馆老板
eatery 小饭馆
regional speciality 地方特色菜
dish （一道）菜，菜肴
menu 菜单

测验与练习

1. 阅读课文并回答问题。

1. According to the article, why is food important for migrant communities?

2. True or false? Jamie Oliver made an authentic Jamaican ready meal.

3. True or false? According to the article, authenticity is defined by minority communities.

4. What example is given of authenticity being restricting?

5. Was the food that Stephanie Elizondo Griest found in Mexico familiar to her?

2. 选择意思恰当的单词或词组来完成下列句子。

1. The _______ of a country is part of its identity.

chef                       cuisine                 menu                       culinary

2. All my favourite _______ are made with rice.

bowls                     cups                    dishes                      trays

3. The _______ on our street serves great food.

menu                     eatery                  cooking                    ready meal

4. If you don't follow the _______ when you're cooking, it won't taste right!

recipe                    menu                    ingredients              dishes

5. Chefs are often influenced by different _______ traditions.

culinary                 cook                      chef                         gastronomy

答案

1. 阅读课文并回答问题。 

1. According to the article, why is food important for migrant communities?

According to the article, home cooking is a way for communities to show their identity.

2. True or false? Jamie Oliver made an authentic Jamaican ready meal.

False. The ready meal that Jamie Oliver produced was not like genuine Jamaican cooking.

3. True or false? According to the article, authenticity is defined by minority communities.

According to the article, authenticity is often defined by the expectations of the majority community.

4. What example is given for authenticity being restricting?

The article says that people expect Asian food to be cheaper than that from European cultures.

5. Was the food that Stephanie Elizondo Griest found in Mexico familiar to her?

She was surprised by the difference between the food in different parts of Mexico and what she had grown up with.

2. 选择意思恰当的单词或词组来完成下列句子。

1. The cuisine of a country is part of its identity.

2. All my favourite dishes are made with rice.

3. The eatery on our street serves great food.

4. If you don't follow the recipe when you're cooking, it won't taste right!

5. Chefs are often influenced by different culinary traditions.

文章来源BBC,侵权删。