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Marco White:我曾经把Gordon Ramsay弄哭

2018-05-31 19:45 作者:盛其示  | 我要投稿

欢Gordon Ramsay的朋友一定听过这个人的大名: Marco Pierre White。Marco是最年轻的米其林三星级主厨(33岁),外号包括“The godfather of modern cooking现代厨艺教父”"Devil in the kitchen厨房恶魔""Rock n roll chef摇滚主厨"等等,但最为人熟知的还是“The man who mad Gordon Ramsay cry弄哭狗蛋的男人”,有兴趣的可以看下这个视频:



本文分为四部分:

一、引言

二、Macro的自传摘录。“把Gordon Ramsay弄哭的男人”这个说法最早的出处就是这本自传

三、Gordon的复仇

四、Gordon的发言人对Marco自传的回应

五、Gordon Ramsay在推特上嘲讽Marco的新节目地狱厨房(澳洲版)


一、引言

Gordon Ramsay和Marco Pierre White的渊源可以追溯到80年代,Gordon在Marco在伦敦的餐厅Harveys里工作了两年又十个月。彼时的Gordon还只是一个20岁左右的菜鸟,刚刚放弃了自己的足球梦,并尝试向厨师转型。

Gordon Ramsay(左)和Marco Pierre White(右)

2年10个月之后,可能是无法忍受Marco的暴力,Gordon最终选择开了Harveys,并打算前往法国学习。Marco并不同意他的这个决定,并帮他在Albert Roux的Le Gavroche餐厅了份新工作。Albert Roux是英国厨艺界真正的教父,Marco Pierre White、Gordon Ramsay、Pierre Koffmann、Shannon Bennett都曾在他手下修行管理风格也是站在传菜台破口大骂那种,且当年Albert也有帮离职员工介绍下家的习。。。。。只能说们三个的风格真的一脉相承┓( ´∀` )┏。


Albert Roux

后来Albert把Gordon带到了法国的阿尔卑斯山地区 后来Gordon又去了巴黎,和米其林星级厨师Guy Savoy、Joël Robuchon共事


Guy Savoy,在MasterChef 第三季第18集,Gordon称其为自己的导师

Joël Robuchon

1993年,Gordon Ramsay从法国归来,Pierre Koffmann向其开出主厨职位,但是Gordon最后还是被Marco挖走,因为Marco开出的是Chef patron,让他拥有餐厅10%的股份,Marco还把餐厅改名为 Aubergine。1997年,Aubergine获得第二颗米其林星星。1998年,Gordon Ramsay决定离开Aubergine,并在伦敦的Chelsea 开了真正属于自己的餐厅,Restaurant Gordon Ramsay。

Marco在其2006年出版的自传The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness and the Making of a Great Chef(《厨房魔鬼:性、痛苦、疯狂如何造就了我》)中,回顾了自己的厨艺生涯,其中多处提到了Gordon Ramsay。当中包括他弄哭Gordon Ramsay的那一夜,还讲述了二人关系破裂的原因。

“把Gordon Ramsay弄哭的男人”这个梗就是从这本书来的


二、Marco的自传:《The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness and the Making of a Great Chef

As for Gordon Ramsay, I cut the umbilical cord a few years back. There were a few incidents and I just decided I didn’t want to talk to him any more, so I stopped returning his calls. He had been a protégé at Harveys and he was always a hard worker and showed tremendous resilience when it came to my bollockings. He never cracked. Or rather, he never cracked until his final night at Harveys. I don’t recall what he’d done wrong but I monstered him and he lost it. Gordon crouched down on the floor in the corner of the kitchen, buried his head in his hands and started sobbing. ‘I don’t care what you do to me,’ he said as he wept. ‘Hit me. I don’t care. Sack me. I don’t care.’ I was hardly going to sack him; he was leaving the next day – I’d got him a job working for Albert Roux at Gavroche.

谈到Gordon Ramsay,我已经好几年没和他联系了。中间发生了几件事,让我不再想和他说话,我再也没有接他的电话。他在Harveys当了很多年的学徒,非常勤快,而且面对我的咒骂,他展现出极强的恢复能力。他从不会被击倒,只有那一次,那是他在Harveys的最后一个晚上。我不会告诉你他犯了什么错误,但我像怪物一样攻击了他,而他迷失了。Gordon蜷缩在厨房的角落里,把头埋在其中,开始啜泣。“我并不在意你对我做了什么,”他边哭边说,“不管是打我,还是解雇我。”我并不打算解雇他,他明天就要离开了,而我为他在Albert Roux的Gavroche餐厅里找了份新工作。 

Perhaps I created the monster Ramsay, the monster who ended up as a TV personality screaming at celebrities on Hell’s Kitchen, doing to them what I had done to him.

 Ramsay这个怪物也许是我创造出来的,这个怪物在地狱厨房里不断地吼叫,像我当初对待他那样对待参赛选手。

In the nineties I helped him launch Aubergine and even came up with the restaurant’s name. In its first few months his kitchen wasn’t right, so my chefs at the Canteen cooked a lot of the food for Aubergine and his boys came over to collect it.

在90年代我帮助他开了Aubergine,名字都是我起的。开始的几个月事情并不顺利,我让Canteen的厨师去帮忙,然后他的人端走上菜。 

I had given a newspaper interview in which I’d compared chefs to footballers and had wondered whether footballers made good managers, i.e., can chefs be successful restaurateurs. Gordon then gave an interview in which he used the same analogy but against me. In other words, he suggested that I may have been good in the kitchen but was I a good restaurateur? I was annoyed about it but he said he had been misquoted. I’d heard him say that before and I think that there’s a limit to the number of times you can be misquoted.

我在一次采访中,用大厨和足球运动员做了类比,正如足球运动员能否成为好的球队经理一样,一个大厨能否成为一个成功的餐厅老板呢。Gordon后面在另一次采访中用了同样的类比,但和我的观点相左。换句话说,他认为我可能是个好厨子,但不是一个好老板。我对此感到不悦,但他表示他的话被媒体歪曲了。这种话我以前就听他说过,他总不会每一次都被人歪曲吧。 

There was another incident when we were pulled up for speeding and the story appeared in the papers. Gordon said his PR people must have placed it, but I wasn’t happy and decided my life would be enriched if I saw no more of him. It’s unlikely we shall ever know each other again. When I cut, I cut.

还有一件事,我们当时为了提高上菜速度,停业整顿,这事居然上了报纸。Gordon说肯定是他的公关联系报社了。我对这个解释并不满意,我认为这个人如果能从我的生活里消失,我的人生会精彩许多。当我决定切断联系的时候,我们已经不可能再做朋友了。 

Heston Blumenthal says I am extremely sensitive about friendship and perhaps he is right. One Sunday Mati and I went to Heston’s restaurant, The Fat Duck in Bray, for lunch with a crowd which included my protégé Philip Howard and Mati’s wonderful parents, Pedro and Lali. I wasn’t on speaking terms with Gordon, but by coincidence he happened to be in the restaurant on the same day. He arrived on spec with his wife Tana, said hello to Heston and asked, ‘Any chance of a spot of lunch?’ Heston didn’t know that we weren’t talking and breezily said, ‘Marco’s coming today.’ Gordon didn’t let on that we had fallen out but simply asked where we would be sitting. When Heston said the garden, Gordon asked if he and Tana could have a table inside. Half an hour later I arrived with my mob. I saw Gordon and said to Heston, ‘What’s he doing here?’

Heston Blumenthal(米奇林三星主厨,擅长分子料理)说我对这种事太敏感了,我想他是对的。一个周日我和Mati(Marco的第三任妻子)去Heston的The Fat Duck in Bray(BTW,这家是Heston的旗舰餐厅,名字也是白叔建议的) 吃午饭,同行的还有我的学徒Philip Howard和Mati的父母,Pedro和Lali。我并不是有意找Gordon的茬,但他那一天正好在同一家餐厅吃饭。他和他的老婆Tana跟Heston打招呼:“还有桌子吗?”Heston这个时候并不知道我们已经闹翻了,他随口说道:“今天Marco也来了。”Gordon并没有向Heston解释我们之间的事,只是问了我们坐在哪里。Heston告诉他我们坐在花园里,Gordon和Tana问他们能不能找张室内的桌子。半个小时后我和我的人到了,我看见了Gordon,问Heston:“那家伙怎么在这?” 

Heston was bemused. ‘Who, Gordon? He’s come for lunch.’

Heson感到很困惑:“谁,Gordon吗?他来吃午饭啊。”

I said, ‘You’ll have to ask him to leave.’ Philip Howard, a very nice man, shuffled uncomfortably and said something like, ‘Oh no.’

我说:“你最好让他滚蛋。”我的话让Philip Howard很不舒服,他说了类似“Oh no”之类的话。

Heston called Gordon away from the table. ‘Gordon, Marco says he’s not going to stay if you are here. I think you should have a word with him.’ Heston then scurried away into the kitchen to hide, asking his maître d’ to keep him informed of developments.

Heston把Gordon叫出来:“Gordon,Marco说今天这里有你无他。我觉得你应该跟他谈一下。”说完这话Heston马上跑到厨房躲了起来,让他的领班来汇报现场情况。

Gordon came into the garden and said, ‘Thank you very much Marco for ruining a nice day.’

Gordon走到花园里说:“真是谢谢你毁了我美好的一天。”

 I said, ‘Why don’t you sue me for loss of enjoyment?’

我说:“有种你告我呀?”

He came back with, ‘You fat bastard. I’ve always wanted to call you that.’

他回击道:“你这个混蛋大胖子!老子早就想这么称呼你了!”

 I said, ‘Is that the best you can do?’

我说:“你就这点出息?”

Gordon left. There was silence in the garden. The customers on other tables were gripped by the scene. I think if it had taken place on stage in a theatre we’d have got a standing ovation.

Gordon走了,花园里一片死静。这精彩的一幕吸引了其他顾客的目光。如果我们是在演舞台剧,他们一定会热烈鼓掌的。

三、Gordon的复仇

Gordon Ramsay其实是个很有野心的人,从几件事可以看出他不喜欢被别人控制,不管这个人和自己有多亲近。

例如前几年Gordon就曾和自己的岳父争夺公司的控制权,可能出乎很多人意料,Gordon Ramsay Group早期是岳父在运营的,Gordon更多是类似形象代言人的角色,毕竟钱是岳父出了大头。

有兴趣的人可以了解下Gordon的家族矛盾,但言归正传,继续谈Marco与他相爱相杀的故事。以下主要引用的是卫报的报道:

https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2007/mar/26/foodanddrink.travelnews

1998年的时候,Aubergine餐厅外面停下了一辆摩托车,车上的人抢走了餐厅内记有订位记录的本子,然后迅速逃离。Gordon将矛头指向Marco,两人当时已经产生矛盾,Gordon认为Marco想把自己从餐厅踢出去。

直到大约10年之后,Gordon才承认自己就是始作俑者,他特地设的局陷害Marco。以下是引用的《卫报》原文:

He arranged for the biker to steal it, he explained. "It was my one stroke of genius, fucking someone over without his knowing that I was the one who done it. And the [restaurant owners] cutting Marco off and wanting to get closer to me, kissing my ass ... You always eat that fucking revenge when it's cold, don't you? Trust me, this was stone cold."

他承认那个骑摩托车的人是他请的。“真是天才的计划,陷害了某人,而他完全不知道我才是幕后黑手。这样餐厅的老板就会断绝与Marco的联系,靠到我这边来,跪舔我。君子报仇十年不晚不是吗?这真是冷得像石头(这句是双关语,Revenge is a dish best served cold和中文里的“君子报仇十年不晚"意思接近,但有一点区别,这句话的意思其实是要在冷静下来再报仇,效果更佳,对方也会因为时间长了疏于提防)”

四、Gordon的发言人对Marco自传的回应

是的,Marco把我弄哭了。(Gordon Ramsay:可是现在在笑的又是谁呢)

https://www.independent.co.uk/news/marcos-michelin-crown-falls-to-young-chef-1284581.html

Yesterday, Ramsay's spokesman said the chef, who is currently on holiday, would not be “descending into a slanging match” with his former mentor, whom he still respects and appreciates for giving him his break in the restaurant industry. However, he added that, aside from the Harvey's and Fat Duck incidents, not all of the stories in White Lies were necessarily true.

昨日(2006年7月28日),Ramsay的发言人表示大厨目前正在休假,不想和他曾经的导师“互相谩骂”,因为他仍然尊敬和感激Marco对他的教导。但是,他补充到,除了Harvey和Fat Duck事件,其他的故事都不太可信。


五、Gordon Ramsay在推特上嘲讽Marco的新节目地狱厨房(澳洲版)

Gordon Ramsay:我快要笑哭了!Marco又一次搞砸了!以前是英国版(地狱厨房),现在是澳洲版(地狱厨房)。顺便地狱厨房美国版第17季要来了,Marco,吃×吧!

注:地狱厨房澳洲版的主持正是Marco,据说相当的无聊。另外地狱厨房英国版其实比美国版还要早一年,Gordon只主持了英国版的第一季(2004年),然后就去了美国版的(2005年),而Marco主持了英国版地狱厨房的3、4季。

他们俩现在的关系有多“好”从这条推特可见一斑╮(╯▽╰)╭

结语:虽然现在两人各种不对付,经常隔空对骂。然而我觉得大白叔有一句话是没说错的,

"I created the monster Ramsay"

Marco White:我曾经把Gordon Ramsay弄哭的评论 (共 条)

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