（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第二十八部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订  

The next 3 moral and Dietary Qualities of Foods

食物的体液和饮食特性

The purpose of the third handbook in this collection is to ease the task of the physician or the self-prescriber by indexing foods according to their dietary properties.

This treatise Appears, in similar form, in two manuscript compilations. The translation of the sections here numbered [i] to [xxv] is based on De Cibis 5-25. This in general gives the fullest and most coherent text, but it is incomplete at certain points; therefore, selected variants and additions are included, as indicated by footnotes, from De Alimentis 1-24. Sections here numbered [xxvi] to [xxxi] are a translation of De Alimentis 25-31.

          这套书中的第三本手册的目的是通过根据食物的饮食特性编制索引来减轻医生或自我处方者负担的任务。

          这篇论文以类似的形式出现在两本手稿汇编中。这里编号为[i]至[xxv]的章节的翻译是基于De Cibis 5-25。总的来说，这提供了最完整和最连贯的文本，但它在某些地方是不完整的；因此，如脚注所示，从De Alimentis 1-24中选择了一些变体和补充内容。这里编号为[xxvi]至[xxxi]的部分是De Alimentis 25-31的翻译。

[i] Foods that produce good humors

能产生良好满足感的食物

[5] Of all foods the one that is most productive of good humors is best quality milk, particularly from healthy animals, and if drunk immediately after milking. It should be taken before any food or drink, and nothing else should be eaten until it has been digested and passed through. If even a little of anything else is mixed with it, it goes to decay and so does the milk. A good way is to drink it early in the morning, freshly milked, to eat nothing with it, and to walk quietly about. Initially it moves the bowels, but then gives nourishment; it is not itself excreted but settles the digestion.

To a less degree than milk, hens' eggs are also productive of good humors, whether lightly boiled or simply drunk raw; goose eggs are not so good.

The meats that are most productive of good humors are those of the domestic hen and of the pheasant, and the testicles of cocks. Similarly [the meat of] other birds, I mean partridge, francolin, pigeon, thrush, blackbird, and small birds including wrens. Coarser, less digestible and more sinewy than these is the meat of the peafowl and turtle dove; even coarser that of the wood pigeon, duck and crane; more productive of excrement that of geese, swans and bustards. Of all such, meat that is more productive of good humors comes from birds that are not yet full grown [and fattened;] I that of both old and very young birds is harmful. The very best is of domestic hens and pigeons that feed in the wild, and in general of free-range birds that are fed on relatively dry foods and breathe good fresh air: one should prefer the meat of these, particularly if with tender flesh, from well-kept animals that have been fed to repletion, and one should eat sparingly of others. Kid is the best meat of any of the caprines: it is more harmful if cooked with the skin.

Deep sea and inshore fish, including grey mullet (the best of all of these) and bass; also cartilaginous fish, and gobies, and dogfish, and the rest, except that large red mullet are rather coarse. Moderately productive of both good and bad humours are guitar-fish, sole, plaice. Of all fish the very best are those with a certain stickiness of texture and with a certain unpleasantness in their taste.

Among quadrupeds the meat of well-fattened young pigs, such as are between one and two years old, with the udders and the trotters; less good, the snout and the ears. But the meat of wild animals is more productive of good humours than that of domestic ones.

Well-made white bread; emmer gruel, or the gruel of roughly pounded wheat; hulled barley well boiled. Among legumes, beans. Among fruits, ripe figs and ripe grapes briefly hung. Dried figs, if rapidly dried, produce good humours; if slowly dried, they produce bad humours in the stomach. They are excellent if eaten with walnuts, but those who eat fresh or dried figs with other foods are rather harmed. Chestnuts do not produce bad humours, but they are indigestible; once baked, however, they are digestible. Pistachios and almonds may be taken from time to time.

Among vegetables, lettuce, and to a lesser degree endives, [mallow, boiled gourd if not overcooked.]

Among wines, those that have a good bouquet and are easy to drink.

          [5] 在所有的食物中，最能产生良好体液的是最优质的动物奶，特别是来自健康动物的奶，而且如果在挤奶后立即饮用，那更好。它应该在任何食物或饮料之前饮用，在它被消化之前不应该吃其他任何东西。如果有一点其他东西与之混合，它就会腐烂。最好是在清晨喝下刚挤出来的新鲜奶，不要吃任何东西，并安静地四处溜达。起初，它能移动肠道，但随后会被分解成营养物质；它本身不会被排出体外，但会使消化系统稳定。

          母鸡的鸡蛋也能产生良好的饱腹感，无论是轻度煮熟还是简单处理后生吃，其程度都比牛奶要低；鹅蛋则没有这么好。

          最能产生好心情的肉是家养母鸡和野鸡的肉，以及公鸡的下体。同样，其他鸟类的[肉]，我指的是鹧鸪、鸽子、鸫鸟、黑鸟，以及包括鹪鹩在内的小鸟。比这些粗糙、不容易消化、有筋骨的是珍珠鸡和斑鸠的肉；更粗糙的是木鸽、鸭子和鹤的肉；易沉积更多排泄物的是鹅、天鹅和鸨的肉。在所有这些食物中，对人体有益的肉来自于尚未完全长大的鸟类；老鸟和幼鸟的肉都是不好的。最好的是在野外觅食的家养母鸡和鸽子，以及一般来说以相对干燥的食物喂养并呼吸良好的新鲜空气的散养禽类：人们应该更喜欢这些肉，特别是肉质鲜嫩的禽鸟类，或来自被喂养得很饱的动物，人们应该少吃其他肉。山羊羔肉是所有山羊中最好的肉，如果带着皮煮的话反而会对身体有害。

         深海和近海鱼类，包括灰乌鱼（所有鱼中最好的）和鲈鱼；还有软骨鱼、虾虎鱼和狗鱼，以及其他鱼类，只是大红乌鱼肉质比较粗。吉他鱼、鳎目鱼、鲽鱼的产量不高，但也有好坏之分。在所有的鱼中，最好的是那些质地有一定粘性、味道吃起来有一点不愉快的鱼。

           在四足动物中，膘肥体壮的小猪肉，如一到两岁的小猪，包括肌肉胸和蹄子；较差的是鼻和耳朵。但是，野生动物的肉比家养动物的肉更能产生良好的满足感。

          制作精良的白面包；埃默尔粥，或粗捣小麦的粥；去壳的大麦煮熟后。豆类，一般是豆子。水果类，成熟的无花果和成熟的葡萄要悬挂自然晾干。如果是吃那些迅速晒干的无花果干，胃内会产生良好的气体；如果是慢慢晒干的，那么胃里会产生不良的气体。如果与核桃一起吃，效果很好，但那些将新鲜或干的无花果与其他食物一起吃的人反而会受到伤害。栗子不会产生坏情绪，但不能消化；不过，一旦烤熟，就可以消化了。开心果和杏仁可以时常食用。

          蔬菜类，有生菜，还有少量的菊苣，[锦葵，煮过的葫芦，如果没有煮过头的话]。

          葡萄酒类，那些有甜美香气和容易饮用的葡萄酒。

[ii] Foods that are digestible

容易消化的食物

[6] Bread that has been well kneaded and well baked, with proper amounts of salt, flour and water.

[All inshore fish, goby, ray, sting-ray.]

The meat of birds such as partridge and francolin [is not very digestible: nor that of] pigeon, capon, chicken and pheasant. The wings of geese are digestible [and also those of chickens]. Most digestible are [the wings of] plump young birds, scrawny and old ones least so. The livers of geese fattened on cream; the testicles of birds similarly fattened.

Calves are better than older cattle, kids are better than older goats; in both cases, best of all if they have grazed in dry places.

[Soft-boiled eggs; raw eggs.] Among vegetables [lettuce, endive,] mallow and boiled gourd [if not overcooked. Walnuts are more digestible than] hazelnuts.

Sweet wines, drunk before the meal, are better than austere ones.

But all foods that are pleasant to eat are more digestible than those that are unpleasant.

          [6] 揉得很好的面包，烤得很好，有适量的盐、面粉和水。

          [所有的近海鱼、虾虎鱼、鳐鱼、刺魟。］

          像鹧鸪和松鸡这样的禽类的肉不容易消化，鸽子、阉鸡、鸡和野鸡的肉也不容易消化。鹅的翅膀容易消化[鸡的翅膀也一样]。最容易消化的是丰满的幼鸟的翅膀，而瘦弱和年老的则是最不容易消化的。用奶油养肥的鹅的肝、鸟类的睾丸吃多了同样容易胖。

          小牛比老牛好，羔羊比老羊好；在这两种情况下，如果它们在干燥的地方吃过草，那肉质就更最好了。

          [蔬菜中[莴苣、苣荬菜、]锦葵和煮葫芦[如果没有煮得太熟的话]，核桃比榛子更容易消化。

          饭前喝甜酒，比普通方法酿制的酒好。

          但所有吃起来愉快的食物都比那些不愉快的食物更容易消化。

[iii] Foods that are indigestible

不易消化的食物

[7] Goat meat, beef, venison: the worst of these is the meat of Billy goats, likewise that of rams and of bulls. All meat of older animals is indigestible, including offal: trotters, tripe, womb, heart, liver, ears, kidneys, all vital organs, brain, tail, and (when not castrated) testicles.

Geese (except the wings), wood pigeons, thrushes, blackbirds and all meat of small birds that is coarse; and more especially turtle-dove, duck; and most of all peafowl and bustard; and the intestines of all birds.

Snails.

Yoghourt; mature cheese.

Shellfish, lobsters, crabs [pagouria, karkinoi], crayfish, shrimps, octopuses, cuttlefish, curled octopus, squid, skate, ray, monkfish, weever, gobies, rascasse, red mullet, grouper, pagres.

Hard-boiled eggs, oeufs en cocotte, fried eggs.

Boiled wheat, broad beans, Lathyrus Ochrus, the pods and the seeds of black-eyed pea, grass pea, chickpea, rice, lupin, [broomcorn millet, lentils, sesame, chestnuts.

Apples, pears, figs,] unripe sorbs, acid grapes, dates of any kind, carobs, lemons (except the peel), undercooked turnip, undercooked grape-hyacinth bulbs, carrot and all vegetable roots, and leaf vegetables too with the exception of lettuce and endive.

Thick and young wines are indigestible; water even more so.

          [7] 山羊肉、牛肉、鹿肉：其中最糟糕的是山羊的肉，同样还有公羊和公牛的肉。所有年老动物的肉都不易消化，包括内脏、蹄子、肚皮、子宫、心脏、肝脏、耳朵、肾脏、大脑、尾巴和（未被阉割时）睾丸。

          鹅（除了翅膀）、木鸽、鸫、黑鸟和部分禽类的粗肉；尤其是斑鸠、鸭子；以及大部分的珍珠鸡和鸨；以及所有鸟类的肠子。

          蜗牛。

          酸奶；成熟的奶酪。

          贝类、龙虾、螃蟹[pagouria, karkinoi]、小龙虾、虾、章鱼、墨鱼、卷曲章鱼、乌贼、鳐鱼、鳐鱼、安康鱼、威化鱼、乌贼、拉斯卡塞、红鲻鱼、石斑鱼、pagres。

          水煮蛋，煎蛋。

          煮熟的小麦、蚕豆、Lathyrus Ochrus、黑眼豌豆的豆荚和种子、草豆、鹰嘴豆、大米、羽扇豆、碎小米、扁豆、芝麻、栗子。

          苹果、梨、无花果、未成熟的苏子、酸葡萄、任何种类的枣子、胡桃、柠檬（除了果皮）、未煮熟的萝卜、未煮熟的葡萄籽球茎、胡萝卜和所有蔬菜根部，叶类蔬菜也是如此，但生菜和苣荬菜除外。

          浓稠和新鲜的葡萄酒不容易消化；水更是如此。

未完待续！