【简译】古代世界的鱼露（Fish Sauce）

2022-08-11 15:39 作者:神尾智代 0人读过 | 我要投稿

古代世界的鱼露

The production and trade of fish sauce in the ancient world was a significant and widespread industry, stretching from Britain to the Black Sea. Roman fish sauce, known as garum, was one of the most popular and commonly used ingredients in the Roman pantry. Some historians have even argued that fish sauce, common throughout Southeast Asia today, was introduced to the continental subregion via the Silk Road.

在古代世界，鱼露的生产和贸易是一个重要及广泛的行业，它的贸易范围从英国延伸到黑海。罗马鱼露，被人们称为garum，是罗马厨房中最受欢迎和最常用的调料之一。一些历史学家甚至认为，今天在整个东南亚常见的鱼露是通过丝绸之路传入该大陆次区域的。

鱼露的起源

Not much is known about the earliest fish sauces in Europe. The first recorded fish sauce was produced by the ancient Greeks along the coastline of the Black Sea. The abundant fishery resources of the region may have been a significant factor in Greek colonisation of the area, even as early as the 7th century BCE. Called gàros, it was made by fermenting small fish with salt which produced an amber-coloured liquid.

关于欧洲最早的鱼露，人们所知不多。第一个有记录的鱼露是由古希腊人在黑海的海岸线生产的。该地区丰富的渔业资源可能是希腊人在该地区殖民的一个重要因素，殖民活动甚至早在公元前7世纪就开始了。这种鱼露被称为gàros，是通过将小鱼与盐发酵产生琥珀色液体而制成。

The Carthaginians were also early makers and traders of fish sauce, producing it along the coast of the Lake of Tunis, in modern day Tunisia. A Punic shipwreck from 5th century BCE, found off the coast of Ibiza, may have been carrying a cargo of fish sauce stored in amphorae made in Gades (modern day Spain) and Tingi (modern-day Morocco). There are many early Graeco-Roman literary references to fish sauce, from writers such as Aristophanes, Sophocles and Aeschylus. The numerous casual mentions suggest it was a commonplace ingredient in the ancient Mediterranean.

迦太基人也是早期的鱼露制造商和贸易商，在现代突尼斯的突尼斯湖沿岸生产鱼露。考古学家在伊比沙岛海岸发现了一艘公元前5世纪的布匿人沉船，可能载有储存在盖德（今西班牙）和廷吉（今摩洛哥）制造的双耳瓶中的鱼露。在早期的希腊-罗马文学中，有许多关于鱼露的记载，如阿里斯托芬、索福克勒斯和埃斯库罗斯等作家都曾提到过鱼露。大量不经意的提及表明鱼露在古代地中海是一种常见的配料。

古罗马的鱼露

The Roman version of fish sauce was called garum. Many believe it originated from the Greek gàros as contemporary accounts suggest they had many similarities, notably their pungent smell. But they may have been composed of different kinds of fish and manufactured in distinct ways.

罗马的鱼露被称为Garum。许多人认为它起源于希腊的gàros，因为当时的记载表明它们之间有许多相似之处，特别是它们的刺激性气味。但它俩可能是由不同种类的鱼、并以不同的方式制造的。

The Romans had a number of different varieties, including garum, liquamen, muria, allec and haimation. It can be hard to differentiate between the different kinds as the names were used interchangeably. Liquamen, for example, became a catch-all term for any fish sauce, though was also used as a specific term for a fish sauce made from the whole fish.

罗马人有许多不同品种的鱼露，包括garum、liquamen、muria、allec和haimation。由于这些名称可以互换使用，因此很难区分不同的种类。例如，Liquamen可以是任何鱼露的总称，但也被用作由整条鱼制成的鱼露的特定术语。

Below are definitions for the main Roman fish sauces:

Garum - The term is often used to describe all Roman fish sauces. It may come from the Greek, gàros. Garum began as an elite food made from fish blood and could be extremely expensive. Pliny said that garum was 'blended to the colour of old honey wine' (Walker, 300).
Liquamen - Another general term for fish sauce. Translating as 'liquid mixture', Pliny described it as the sediment of garum. It is believed to have had a lower status than garum and might have been used to extend salt supplies. The fish sauce industry was called liquaminarium and a dealer in fish sauce a liquaminarius. Liquamen was made primarily with sardines, herring, shad and eel.
Muria - Muria was the brine filtered out after salting the fish and was usually made from tunny.
Allec - More of a paste than sauce allec was made from leftover sediment. It contained bones and other parts of the fish that did not rot.
Haimation - A type of garum, this was the highest quality fish sauce and therefore mainly for wealthier citizens. Haimation, or 'blood sauce', was often made from the blood and guts of tunny.

下面是罗马主要鱼露的定义：

Garum：这个词经常被用来描述所有的罗马鱼露。它可能来自希腊语，gàros。Garum开始是一种由鱼血制成的精致食品，可能非常昂贵。普林尼曾说，Garum是 "混合老蜜酒的颜色"（沃克，300）。
Liquamen：鱼露的另一个术语。普林尼将其翻译为 "液体混合物"，将其描述为Garum的沉淀物。据说，它的地位低于Garum，可能被用来作盐的替代品。鱼露行业被称为liquaminarium，鱼露经销商被称为liquaminarius。Liquamen主要是用沙丁鱼、鲱鱼、鲥鱼和鳗鱼制作的。
Muria ： Muria是盐腌鱼后过滤出来的盐水，通常是用金枪鱼制作的。
Allec：与其说是酱汁，不如说是糊状，Allec是由剩余的鱼露沉淀物制成的。它包含鱼的骨头和其他没有腐烂的部分。
Haimation：一种garum，这是最高质量的鱼露，因此多出现在富裕人家的餐桌上。Haimation，或称 "血酱"，通常用长尾鱼的血和内脏制成。

Broadly speaking, Roman fish sauces were made by mixing fish blood, guts and heads with large quantities of sea salt. The mixture was then left to ferment for varying amounts of time. According to Pliny, garum could be made with a variety of fish or shellfish, including maena, murena, tunny, mullet, oysters, and sea urchins, although mackerel was the most popular.

概括地说，罗马鱼露是由鱼血、内脏和鱼头与大量海盐混合而成。混合物被放置在不同的时间段内发酵。根据普林尼的说法，garum可以用各种鱼或贝类制作，包括尖尾鱼、海鳗、金枪鱼、鲻鱼、牡蛎和海胆，但青花鱼是最受欢迎的。

人们的喜爱程度

Garum was popular with every level of Roman society for a number of reasons. It was an important way of preserving fish, which spoiled easily once dead. By adding salt to fish and leaving it to ferment, the growth of mould was prevented, extending the shelf life considerably. It also provided a valuable source of protein and nutrients, especially to the poor. More importantly, however, was a love of the salty, umami taste. According to Pliny, garum was an "exquisite liquid" which was "so pleasant that it can be drunk" (Walker, 300). Not everybody loved fish sauce, however. The statesman Seneca described it as "poisonous fish" which "burns up with stomach with its putrefaction" (Rimas, 51).

由于一些原因，Garum受到罗马社会各个阶层的欢迎。它是保存鱼的一种重要方式，因为鱼一旦死了就很容易变质。通过在鱼中加入盐并让其发酵，可以防止霉菌的生长，大大延长保质期。它还提供了宝贵的蛋白质和营养物质的来源，特别是对穷人家庭来说。然而，更重要的是，人们对咸味、鲜味的喜爱。根据普林尼的说法，Garum是一种 "精致的液体"，"味道非常令人愉快，可以饮用"（沃克，300）。然而，并非所有人都喜欢鱼露。政治家塞涅卡将其描述为 "有毒的鱼"，"用它的腐烂来烧毁胃"（Rimas，51）。

使用方法

Relatively little is known about how garum was used in the Roman world until the 1st century CE, through the works of Marcus Gavius Apicius. Apicius, the renowned epicure, records nearly 350 recipes that use fish sauce. It was added as an ingredient in almost every recipe, including many sweet dishes. It may have also been used as a table condiment, though there is little evidence to support this.

在公元1世纪之前，通过马库斯·加维乌斯·阿庇西乌斯的作品，人们对罗马世界如何使用鱼露的了解相对较少。阿皮基乌斯是著名的美食家，他记录了近350种使用鱼露的食谱。鱼露被作为一种调料添加到每种食谱中，包括甜菜食谱。它也可能被用作餐桌上的调味品，尽管没有什么证据支持这一点。

Garum was mixed with other liquids to create new sauces, such as oenogarum (fish sauce with wine) and oxygarum (fish sauce with vinegar). The most famous sausage in the ancient world, lucanica, was smoked, spiced and given a salty flavour with the addition of liquamen. Galen, the famed 1st-2nd century CE Roman physician, even prescribed a bowl of lentils and garum for those suffering from diarrhoea.

人们将Garum与其他液体混合，创造出新的酱汁，如oenogarum（加酒的鱼露）和oxygarum（加醋的鱼露）。古代世界最有名的香肠，Lucanica，被熏制，加了香料，并通过添加liquamen而获得了咸味。公元1-2世纪著名的罗马医生盖伦甚至给那些患有腹泻的人开了一碗小扁豆和加仑姆的处方。

生产情况

While the garum industry was not as large as that of olive oil or wine, it was still significant and widespread. Factories dedicated to the production existed across the empire, mainly found in Spain, Portugal, southern France and North Africa. To date, the largest factory uncovered in the western Mediterranean, located at Lixus (in modern-day Morocco). The site included ten factories with a salting capacity of over 1,000,000 litres. By comparison, the largest olive oil factory discovered could only produce one-tenth of this amount.

虽然鱼露产业不像橄榄油或葡萄酒那样大，但它仍然很重要。帝国各地都有专门用于生产的工厂，主要在西班牙、葡萄牙、法国南部和北非。迄今为止，考古学家在地中海西部发现了最大的古代鱼露工厂，位于Lixus（在今天的摩洛哥）。该遗址包括十个工厂，盐渍能力超过100万升。相比之下，迄今为止所发现的最大的古代橄榄油工厂只能生产这一数量的十分之一。

The production of fish sauce could also take place more widely than those of other foods, such as olive oil and wine, which could not be grown in certain parts of the empire. Fish, on the other hand, could be processed near any body of water that had access to a salt supply. While fish sauce was imported to Roman Britain mainly from the Iberian peninsula, archaeological sites near London, Lincoln and York have been identified as possible garum factories. Not always popular, at certain times, when the smell from production became too overwhelming, local governors had to temporarily halt production.

鱼露的生产也可以比其他食物的生产更灵活，如橄榄油和葡萄酒，后者的原材料在帝国的某些地区不能种植。另一方面，鱼可以在任何有盐供应的水体附近加工。虽然鱼露主要是从伊比利亚半岛进口到罗马-不列颠的，但伦敦、林肯和约克附近的考古遗址已被确定有鱼露工厂的痕迹。鱼露在某些时候，并不总是受欢迎的，当生产的气味变得过于压抑时，当地的总督不得不暂时停止鱼露的生产。

Due to varying types of fish and processes used, each location produced a sauce with a distinct taste, colour and consistency. By the time of Augustus (27 BCE – 14 CE), a type of fish sauce made in Cartagena and Cadiz, Spain, called garum sociorum, was considered the highest quality. Garum sociorum could be sold for 1,000 sesterces for 12 pints, the equivalent of over 950 kg (1.05 tons) of wheat in Pompeii in 79 CE or 2,000 loaves of bread.

由于鱼的品种和使用的工艺不同，每个地方生产的酱汁都有独特的味道、颜色和浓度。到奥古斯都时期（公元前27年-公元前14年），西班牙卡塔赫纳和加的斯生产的一种鱼露，被认为是最优质的。Garum sociorum（这种鱼露最初来自迦太基地区）可以卖到12品脱1000塞斯特，相当于公元79年庞贝城超过950公斤（1.05吨）的小麦或2000个面包的价格。

衰落

Some historians believe fish sauce was introduced to Asia by the Romans via the Silk Road, while others maintain that Asian communities independently invented their own varieties. Either or both may be true. Interestingly, in 2010 CE, a team of researchers analysed samples of garum taken from containers preserved at Pompeii. They found that Roman fish sauce from the 1st century CE had an almost identical taste profile to those produced today in southeast Asia.

一些历史学家认为鱼露是由罗马人通过丝绸之路传入亚洲的，另一些人则认为亚洲社区独立创造了自己的鱼露品种。这两种说法都可能是真的。有趣的是，2010年，一个研究小组分析了从庞贝城保存的容器中提取的鱼露样品。他们发现，公元1世纪的罗马鱼露与今天在东南亚生产的鱼露有着几乎相同的味道特征。

In Europe, the fall of the Roman Empire led to heavy taxes on salt, driving up the price of garum. Alongside this, an increase in pirate activity in the Mediterranean meant traditional trades routes were disrupted. Some areas continued localised production, such as the famous colatura di alici fish sauce made in Cetara, southwest Italy. In general terms, however, production almost entirely disappeared across the West.

在欧洲，罗马帝国的衰落导致中央对盐征收重税，推高了鱼露的价格。与此同时，地中海地区海盗活动的增加意味着传统的贸易路线被破坏。一些地区继续进行本地化生产，如意大利西南部切塔拉生产的著名的colatura di alici鱼酱。然而，从总体上看，整个西方的鱼露生产几乎完全消失了。

References to garum crop up again in later accounts from Byzantium. It is mentioned by Liutprand of Cremona in the 10th century CE, who wrote:

There was a liquor called garum which was once as widely used at Rome as vinegar is now. We found it as popular in Turkey as it ever was. There is not a fishmonger's shop in Constantinople that has not some for sale…

(Dalby, 2010, 68)

在后来来自拜占庭的记载中，再次提到了鱼露。西元10世纪克雷莫纳的利乌特普兰德提到了它，他写道：

有一种叫garum的料酒，在罗马曾经像现在的醋一样广泛使用。我们发现它在土耳其和以前一样流行。在君士坦丁堡，没有一家鱼贩子的商店不出售这种液体......

Though garum was probably not as popular as Liutprand claims as it was only mentioned sporadically.

鱼露可能并不像利乌特普兰德所说的那样受欢迎，因为它只是被当时的人们零星地提及。

带有彩绘铭文的鱼露瓶，标识其内容物是庞贝生产商 Aulus Umbricius Scaurus 制造的 Garum。

复苏

Since Roman times, and perhaps before, fish sauce has been extremely popular in the southeast Asian countries of Cambodia, Lao, Myanmar, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam. Fish sauce had at one point been used widely across Japan, Korea and parts of China but from the 14th century CE soy sauce replaced it as the salt-giving, umami-enhancing ingredient. Today, with the cuisines of Southeast Asia becoming more prominent in the West and with more Westerners travelling to the region than ever before, varieties of fish sauce are regaining their ancient popularity.

自罗马时代以来，也许是更早的时候，鱼露在柬埔寨、老挝、缅甸、菲律宾、泰国和越南等东南亚国家非常流行。鱼露曾一度在日本、韩国和中国部分地区广泛使用，但从公元14世纪开始，酱油开始逐渐取代了鱼露，成为补充盐分、增进味觉的配料。今天，随着东南亚的菜肴在西方变得更加受欢迎，以及越来越多的西方人到该地区旅行，鱼露的使用越来越像古代一样流行起来。