（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十七部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订  

Food for travellers and soldiers

旅行者和士兵的食物

 The pattern of Byzantine eating meant that one looked for little food during the day, expecting a single big meal in the evening. Hence the drinking shops in the cities, if closed by mid-evening, had no reason to develop into restaurants.

          拜占庭式的饮食模式，意味着一个人在白天很难寻找较多的食物，而在晚上则可以期待大餐一顿。因此，城市里的酒楼，如果到了半夜关门，就没有理由发展成餐馆了。

Travellers, for their part, would carry a midday snack with them or rely on chance. We hear of a party of Anglo-Saxon pilgrims, visiting the holy places of Asia Minor, who 'got some bread and went to a spring in the middle of the town and sat on the bank and dipped their bread in the water and ate it'. Even royalty, when out for a day's hunting, ate black bread with cheese and cress. Hoping possibly for some meat or fish, Bishop Michael Choniates, on his arrival at the island of Ceos, asked those at the harbour side: '''Do you have any prosphagion 'relish', children?" They at once offered me cheese, because these islanders use the general word prosphagion in the special sense of "cheese".

          就旅行者而言，他们会随身携带午间的小吃或补给品。我们听说有一群盎格鲁-撒克逊朝圣者在参观小亚细亚的圣地，他们得到了一些面包，走到镇中心的一个泉水边，坐在岸边，把面包浸在水里吃了 '。 即使是皇室成员，在外出打猎时也会吃黑面包、奶酪和水芹。 迈克尔·乔尼亚茨主教（Bishop Michael Choniates）可能希望吃点肉或鱼，在抵达塞奥斯岛时，他问港口边的人：“孩子们，你们有没有什么‘味道’（这里指一些额外的食物）？”他们立刻递给我奶酪， 因为这些岛民在“奶酪”的特殊含义中使用了一般的词prosphagion。

Those who were lucky enough to be able to stay with friends while travelling found that this was much the most pleasant way to get an evening meal and a comfortable bed. 'There was always someone to meet us,' said Timarion, speaking of the nightly stages of his journey to Hell via Thessalonica. In remote districts the ancient obligation of hospitality still impinged on all householders, and was still observed punctiliously. And for those with no other invitations, monasteries, country inns and travellers' hostels existed at intervals along the main roads. Of a monastery at Pera we are told by a Russian pilgrim that, in accordance with the will of the founding abbot, 'nowadays they offer bread, soup and a cup of wine to all. Every Christian on his way to and from Jerusalem is fed there for several days; the Greeks, also, are fed there, and thanks to the prayers of the Mother of God this monastery never becomes impoverished'. An epigram tells us that the poet Macedonius built an inn at Cibyra, while the philanthropic Mehmet II, the Empire's Turkish conqueror, in due course gave attention to the restoration of inns and hans on the roads that led to Constantinople. In general such establishments offered little more than shelter and security; yet one of them, at least, had once become famous for its cooking, so we learn from the Lift of St Theodore of Syceon. Theodore himself was born at the inn in the sixth century: his mother, his grandmother and his aunt had begun their career as prostitutes but came to rely on the quality of their food to attract customers. Their employee, 'a God-fearing man called Stephanus,' is the first restaurant chef anywhere in the world whose name is known.

          那些有幸在旅途中与朋友待在一起的人发现，这是获得晚餐和舒适床铺最愉快的方式。 “总有人来接我们，”提马里昂在谈到他经塞萨洛尼卡前往Hell（感觉这里翻译成“地狱”不太对）的夜间旅程时说。在偏远地区，古老的好客思维仍然影响着所有的住户，并仍然被他们严格遵守。而对于那些没有其他邀请的人来说，他们在主要道路上时常能够发现寺庙、乡村旅馆和旅店。关于佩拉的一座修道院，一位俄罗斯朝圣者告诉我们，按照开国方丈的意愿，‘如今，他们向所有人提供面包、汤和一杯酒。每个基督徒在往返耶路撒冷的路上都会在那里吃几天。希腊人也在那里吃饱，他们感谢天主之母，祈祷这座修道院永远不会变得贫穷。”有一句警句告诉我们，诗人马其顿在西比拉建造了一家旅馆，而慈善家穆罕默德二世，帝国的土耳其征服者，在适当的时候关注了这些通往君士坦丁堡道路上的旅馆和汉斯的修复。一般来说，这些机构提供的只是庇护和安全。然而，其中至少有一个曾经因其烹饪而出名，所以我们向 Syceon 的圣西奥多学习。西奥多本人在 6 世纪就出生在这家旅馆：他的母亲、祖母和姑姑早早开始了他们的妓女生涯，但后来，这家旅管依靠她们的食物来吸引顾客。他们的员工，“一个名叫斯蒂芬努斯的、敬畏上帝的人”，是世界上第一位大众普识的餐厅厨师。

There were two useful substitutes for freshly-baked bread, for those who were out of reach of this prized commodity. They were the ring-shaped loaf boukellaton and the thickly sliced toasted barley bread paximadi. Both were typical food for the Byzantine army.

          对于那些无法获得这种独特商品的人来说，有两种有用的替代品可以替代新鲜出炉的面包。 它们是环形面包boukellaton和厚切片烤大麦面包paximadi。 两者都是拜占庭军队的典型食物。

In fact the book on Stratagems attributed to the emperor Maurice names three alternative basic army rations: the troops were to be supplied with boukellaton (ready made), or millet meal, or wheatmeal. On campaign, so Maurice instructs, a soldier should carry in his saddlebag water and one or two pounds of boukellaton or meal. Boukellaton was such a necessity that the commander of certain auxiliary troops comes to be called boukellarios, a name explained as 'the one who looks after the bread so that soldiers do not need to'. One of the inland provinces of northern Asia Minor came to be called Boukellarion after this military title.

          事实上，归因于莫里斯皇帝的《计谋》一书列举了三种可供选择的基本军队口粮：部队将获得 boukellaton（现成的）、小米粉或小麦粉。 莫里斯指示，在战役中，士兵应该在马鞍包里装水和一两磅面包或膳食。 布凯拉顿是如此必要，以至于某些辅助部队的指挥官被称为布凯拉里奥斯，这个名字被解释为“照顾面包的人，因此士兵不需要这样做”。 在这个军事头衔之后，小亚细亚北部的内陆省份之一被称为 Boukellarion。

Instead of boukellaton other sources, such as Constantine Porphyro-gennetus On Ceremonies, tend to list paximadia. Both of these can fairly be included under the classical name dipyros artos 'twice-baked bread'. Their common feature is that they were baked to dryness: in fact, they were practically inedible without moistening. 'The bread that soldiers are to eat in camp has to go into the oven twice and be so thoroughly baked that it will last as long as possible and not quickly spoil. Bread so baked is much lighter in weight,' explains the military historian Procopius.  Unenticing? Yet boukellaton or paximadia in some fancy form (biscoctum delicatum, 'fine biscuit' in William of Rubruck's Latin) were attractive enough and typical enough for William to take along with him to the Crimea as a present from Constantinople.

          代替 boukellaton 的其他来源，例如 Constantine Porphyro-gennetus On Ceremonies，倾向于列出 paximadia。 这两者都可以归入经典名称 dipyros artos '二次烤面包'。它们的共同特征是被烤干：事实上，它们是不能食用的，因为没有水分。“士兵在营地吃的面包必须放进烤箱烤两次，要烤得彻底，才能尽可能长时间地保存，不然很快会变质。 如此烤制的面包重量要轻得多，”军事历史学家普罗科皮乌斯解释道。这种面包没有吸引力吗？ 然而，某种花哨形式的 boukellaton 或 paximadia（biscoctum delicatum，在鲁布鲁克的威廉的拉丁语中是“优质饼干”）足够吸引人，也足够典型，足以让威廉带着他到克里米亚作为君士坦丁堡的礼物。

未完待续！