【简译】厄尔士山脉的历史与矿业文化

2023-03-22 11:54 作者:神尾智代 0人读过 | 我要投稿

The Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge) on the border between Germany and the Czech Republic is a region rich in history and culture connected to the mining industry. For centuries the cities on both sides of the mountain range had sustained themselves and flourished by the extraction of tin, copper, zinc, uranium, and most importantly silver. Even though the mines are now closed the mining culture and heritage is still widely celebrated and visible for visitors, with the hammer and chisel motif on many buildings in the different mining towns.

位于德国和捷克共和国边境的厄尔士山脉（Erzgebirge）是一个与采矿业相关的历史和文化丰富的地区。几个世纪以来，山脉两边的城市一直靠开采锡、铜、锌、铀以及最重要的银来维持生存和繁荣。尽管矿场现已关闭，但采矿文化和遗址广受赞誉，游客仍可以参观，不同采矿城镇的许多建筑上都有锤子和凿子的图案。

The rich mining heritage of the region was recently inscribed on the UNESCO world heritage list (July 2019 CE), with sites on both sides of the border. On the German side, in the Free State of Saxony, the cities of Freiberg and Annaberg-Buchholz has much to offer in educating visitors about the mining industry, both from the Middle Ages and more recent times and how this intensive industry shaped the lives and culture of the people living there. A visit is definitely recommended for anyone interested in mining history, early industrialization or for those who seek to experience an authentic German Christmas market.

该地区丰富的矿业遗产最近被列入联合国教科文组织的世界遗产名录（公元2019年7月），边界两侧都有遗址。在德国一侧的萨克森自由州，弗莱贝格和安娜贝格-布赫霍尔茨这两个城市可以为游客提供很多关于采矿业的知识，包括中世纪和近代的采矿业，以及这一密集型产业如何塑造了生活在那里的人们的生活与文化。对于那些对采矿历史、早期工业化感兴趣的人，或者那些想体验正宗德国圣诞市场的人，我们绝对推荐他们去参观。

弗莱贝格

Freiberg, a one-hour train ride from Dresden, traces its history back to 1168 CE. At that time the forest region was under the control of the Margrave of Meissen. A silver ore was discovered close to the small settlement Christiandorf and lead to the establishment of the city of Freiberg, which got its name from the mining rights belonging to the “free miner”. The mining industry became a very important source of income for the Margrave of Meissen, Otto II (r. c. 1156-1190 CE), known later as Otto the Rich. A large statue of the town's 'founder' can now be seen at the main square of the historic city center. Freiberg's importance and wealth increased rapidly after the discovery of silver, and it remained the economic center and mint of Saxony until the 16th century CE. The mining industry continued in the Freiberg region for 800 years until the mines were finally closed in 1968 CE.

弗莱贝格距德累斯顿仅一小时火车车程，其历史可追溯到公元 1168 年。当时，森林地区处于迈森侯爵的控制之下。人们在克里斯蒂安多夫（Christiandorf）这个小定居点附近发现了银矿，促使了弗莱贝格市的建立，该城市的名字来自于属于“自由矿工”的采矿权。采矿业成为迈森侯爵奥托二世（约公元1156-1190年）一个非常重要的收入来源，他后来被称为富翁奥托。现在可以在历史悠久的市中心的主广场看到该镇“创始人”的大型雕像。发现白银后，弗莱贝格的重要性和财富迅速增加，直到公元16世纪，它一直是萨克森州的经济中心和铸币厂。采矿业在弗莱贝格地区持续了800年，直到 1968 年矿山最终关闭。

Today Freiberg is a lively and charming city with many exciting sites to see, amongst other the Town Hall from the 15th century CE, and the Cathedral of St. Mary, first contracted in 1180 CE as a Romanesque Basilica, the current building dates to c. 1500 CE. On the south side of the cathedral, you can visit a part of the old church, The Golden Gate, a richly ornamented sandstone portal from 1230 CE.

今天的弗莱贝格是一个充满活力和魅力的城市，拥有许多令人兴奋的景点，其中包括公元15世纪的市政厅，以及圣玛丽大教堂。这座大教堂最初是罗马式建筑，建于公元 1180 年，现存的建筑可以追溯到公元1500年左右。在大教堂的南侧，您可以参观老教堂金门的一部分，这是一个建于公元 1230 年的装饰华丽的砂岩门户。

Even though the town was destroyed by fire several times and suffered during the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648 CE), much of the medieval town is still standing. Walking around in the historic center, one architectural feature is especially remarkable: the Gothic patrician houses with very high and steep pitched roof constructions. The main square, Obermakt, is definitely worth a visit, where you will see both the statue of Otto the Rich and the beautiful Town Hall. On the north side of the square, you can also marvel at a gate with intricate carvings depicturing the miners hard at work.

尽管这座小镇在三十年战争（公元 1618-1648 年）期间多次被大火烧毁并遭受重创，但这座中世纪小镇的大部分地区仍然屹立不倒。漫步在历史中心，有一个建筑特点特别引人注目：哥特式贵族房屋的屋顶结构非常高且陡峭。小镇主广场Obermakt绝对值得一游，在那里你可以看到富翁奥托的雕像和美丽的市政厅。在广场的北侧，你还可以看到一扇大门，上面有复杂的雕刻，描绘了矿工们辛勤工作的情景，令人惊叹。

It is impossible to visit this city without being drawn towards the rich mining history and culture. To learn more, visitors are recommended to spend a couple of hours in the Freiberg City and Mining Museum. Located in a stunning late Gothic building, it is one of Saxony's oldest museums, established in 1861 CE. The museum is filled with tools, art, photographs, and other objects connected to work in the mines throughout the ages or the culture that flourished thanks to the mining industry. In addition, no one should leave without a visit to the Freudenstein Castle, where the mineral exhibition Terra Mineralia is on display with over 3,500 minerals, precious stones, and meteorites. The exhibition is presented by the Technical University Bergakademie Freiberg, the oldest university of mining and metallurgy in the world, and is a real treasure trove filled with gems from all over the world.

访问这座城市，不可能不被丰富的采矿历史和文化所吸引。为了了解更多，建议游客在弗莱贝格城市和矿业博物馆花上几个小时。它位于一座令人惊叹的晚期哥特式建筑中，是萨克森州最古老的博物馆之一，成立于公元1861年。博物馆里摆满了工具、艺术品、照片和其他与历代矿场工作或因采矿业而繁荣的文化有关的物品。此外，游客们都应该去弗罗伊登施泰因城堡（Schloss Freudenstein）参观，那里的矿物博物馆展出了超过3500种矿物、宝石和陨石。该展览由世界上最古老的矿业和冶金大学弗莱贝格工业大学(Bergakademie Freiberg)举办，是一个真正的宝库，里面装满了来自世界各地的宝石。

安娜贝格-布赫霍尔茨

To learn more about the rich mining heritage of the region the next stop of any traveler should be Annaberg-Bucholtz. Annaberg is named after St. Anne the patron of miners and was founded when silver was found there towards the end of the 15th century CE. The city flourished due to the riches that the mines brought, and the culture and heritage are still prominent all around when walking the scenic and steep streets of the medieval town. As in Freiberg, there is a museum about the city's history and its deep connection to mining, the Ore Mountains Museum. Also quite old, as it was established in 1887 CE, this is a place to learn more not only about the life of the miners but also the old craft of the pewterers, potters, and passementerie makers.

要想进一步了解该地区丰富的采矿遗产，任何旅行者的下一站都应该是安娜贝格-布赫霍尔茨。安娜贝格是以矿工的守护神圣安妮(St. Anne)命名的，建于公元 15 世纪末，当时在那里发现了白银。这座城市因矿山带来的财富而蓬勃发展，走在中世纪小镇风景秀丽的陡峭街道上时，文化和遗产仍然随处可见。与弗莱贝格一样，这里有一座博物馆，讲述这座城市的历史及其与采矿业的深厚联系，即厄尔士山脉博物馆。这座博物馆也相当古老，因为它建立于公元1887年，在这里不仅可以了解到矿工的生活，还可以了解锡匠、陶工和装饰品制造商的古老工艺。

A must-see is the St. Anne's Church on top of one of these steep streets. It is a late Gothic Hall church built between 1499 and 1525 CE, beautifully decorated and famous for its clear connection to the strong mining culture in the region. One example of this connection is the miner depicted at the lowest staircase on the pulpit – not a typical religious image!

必看景点是位于这些陡峭街道之一顶部的圣安妮教堂。这是一座建于公元 1499 年至 1525 年之间的晚期哥特式大厅教堂，装饰精美，以与该地区浓厚的采矿文化有着明显的联系而闻名。这种联系的一个例子是讲坛上最底层楼梯上描绘的矿工——这不是典型的宗教形象！

Further, the mining heritage is most evident on the backside of the Annaberg Mountain Altar, which, in 2019 CE, was listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a part of the Ore Mountain Mining Region. Painted by Hans Hesse (1470-1539 CE), the altar depicts the different types of work done in or in connection to the mines. It is fascinating to study the painting and imagining all the men (and few women) who spent their lives in and around the mines for centuries. Today, hard labor in the complete darkness for hours and the dangerous conditions are almost incomprehensible for most people.

此外，采矿遗产在安纳伯格山祭坛的背面最为明显，该祭坛于公元 2019 年作为厄尔山矿区的一部分被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录。由汉斯·黑塞（Hans Hesse，公元 1470-1539 年）绘制的祭坛描绘了在矿山中或与矿山相关的不同类型的工作。研究这幅画并想象几个世纪以来在矿山及其周围度过一生的所有男人（和少数女人）是一件很有趣的事情。今天，在完全黑暗中数小时的艰苦劳动和危险的条件对大多数人来说几乎是无法理解的。

A little walk from the church and the town center, you can visit the Frohnauer Hammer Museum, located in the Frohnauer village, now a part of Annaberg-Buchholz. The most exciting part of the museum is a preserved hammer forge where you can experience what an authentic 17-18th-century CE hammer forge looked liked. With burning torches and the sound of the waterwheel in the background, you can see what tools and machines were used to shape and forge the metals from the mines into coins, tools, and more.

从教堂和镇中心步行不远，您可以参观位于Frohnauer 村的Frohnauer Hammer博物馆，该村现在是安娜贝格-布赫霍尔茨的一部分。博物馆最令人兴奋的部分是一个保存完好的锤锻炉，您可以在那里体验真正的 17-18 世纪 CE 锤锻炉的样子。在燃烧的火把和背景的水车声中，您可以看到使用了哪些工具和机器将矿山中的金属塑造和锻造成硬币、工具等。

Visiting the forge is an absolutely magical experience, where you really feel like you have traveled back in time. On the other side of the street, you can also visit the manor house of the owner of the forge, which is also preserved with its 18th-century CE interior. Here you can learn about another important aspect of Ore Mountain culture and tradition: bobbin lace making. Bobbin lace making was introduced to the region by the 16th-century CE entrepreneur Barbara Uthman (1514-1575 CE) and became an important source of income for the region next to mining. In addition, there is also a section of the museum dedicated to the folk art of carving and art connected to mining.

参观锻造厂绝对是一种神奇的体验，在这里你真的会感觉到你已经回到了过去。在街道的另一边，你还可以参观锻造厂厂主的庄园，它也保留了18世纪的内部装修。在这里，你可以了解到厄尔士矿山文化和传统的另一个重要方面：梭芯花边（bobbin lace，筒管花边）制作。16 世纪的企业家芭芭拉·乌斯曼（公元 1514-1575 年）将梭芯花边制作引入该地区，并成为该地区仅次于采矿的重要收入来源。此外，博物馆还有一部分专门展示民间雕刻艺术和与采矿有关的艺术。

探访矿区

After learning so much about mining culture, no visit to the Ore Mountains would be complete without actually entering a mine. In the Annaberg-Buchholz area, you can visit the Markus Rohling Stolln Visitor Mine. This mine was active in the silver and cobalt industry from 1733 to 1857 CE, and later in the uranium industry under SAG Wismut. After getting your helmet and proper gear, the mine tram will take you 600 meters into the mine. Here you will be given a guided tour, showing the different techniques and tools that had been used over time from candles and hammer and chisel to automatic drills and dynamite. When the hammer and chisel were used, it was normal to cut out approximately 3 cm of rock each day – that is not a lot when you have been hammering all you got all day! It makes you wonder where these miners got their motivation.

在了解了如此多的矿业文化之后，如果不真正进入一个矿场，就不能算是完整的矿山之行。在安娜贝格-布赫霍尔茨地区，你可以参观Markus Rohling Stolln游客矿区。这个矿场在公元1733年至1857年期间服务于银和钴工业，后来在SAG Wismut的领导下服务于铀工业。拿到头盔和适当的装备后，矿山电车将带您进入矿山 600 米。在这里，您将在导游的带领下参观，展示随着时间的推移使用的不同技术和工具，从蜡烛、锤子和凿子到自动钻和炸药。当使用锤子和凿子时，每天凿出大约 3 厘米的岩石是正常的——当你一整天都在锤击时，这并不多！这让你想知道这些矿工的动力来自哪里。

As the different sections of the mine are dedicated to different time periods it is fascinating to track the development of the industry and the progressively advanced machinery. You will also get to see the advanced waterwheel and pump system that was constructed to keep the rising water out of the mines. Today much of the lower levels are underwater, but the waterwheel is functioning, and if you are lucky, they might turn it on so you can get a real sense of how it works.

由于矿井的不同部分是针对不同时期的，因此追踪行业的发展和日益先进的机械是一件很有趣的事情。你还可以看到先进的水轮和水泵系统，该系统是为了防止矿井中的水上升而建造的。今天，下层的大部分地方都在水下，但水车仍在运作，如果你幸运的话，他们可能会把它打开，这样你就能真正感受到它是如何运作的。

An alternative mine to visit is the exhibition mine in Freiberg, Silber Bergwerk Freiberg, where guided tours take you 60-180 meters underground. This mine offers the full package with helmets, boots, and coveralls, and you will travel down in the Reiche Zeche shaft with a tiny cage elevator in complete darkness. You can choose from different tours, focusing on different time periods and sections of the large complex called “underground Freiberg”. You will learn both about the different metals found here and the different mining techniques, as well as stories and myths connected to the dangerous life in the dark underground. A visit to this mine is especially interesting because it is still an active mine, even though the mining for mineral has stopped. Students and academics of the Technical University Bergakademie Freiberg continue to conduct research here, and they even have a classroom over 100 meters underground! On your way through the narrow passageways, you might meet a geologist or physicist carrying instruments and tools, making this mine feel more alive.

另一个值得参观的矿山是弗莱贝格的展览矿山Silber Bergwerk Freiberg，在导游的带领下，你可以在地下60-180米处参观。这个矿场提供全套服务，包括头盔、靴子和工作服，你将在完全黑暗的环境中通过一个小小的笼式电梯在Reiche Zeche井下行走。您可以选择不同的游览路线，重点关注称为“地下弗莱贝格”的大型建筑群的不同时间段分区。您将了解这里发现的不同金属和不同的采矿技术，以及与黑暗地下危险生活相关的故事和神话。参观这个矿场特别有趣，因为它仍然是一个活跃的矿场，尽管矿物的开采已经停止。弗莱贝格工业大学的学生和学者们继续在这里进行研究，他们甚至在地下100多米处有一个教室。在穿过狭窄的通道时，你可能会遇到携带仪器和工具的地质学家或物理学家，这让矿井充满生机。

厄尔士山脉的圣诞节

Elaborate Christmas markets are becoming increasingly popular all over Europe and beyond, but the original and most authentic ones can be found in Germany. The Christmas markets in the Ore Mountains are wonderful to visit not only because of their authenticity but also because the Christmas traditions are so strongly linked to the mining culture of the region. Christmas traditions from this little part of the world are now an integrated part of most Europeans' Christmas decorations, and the region is even referred to as the “Home of Christmas”. The most visible mining element of the Ore Mountains is the Mettenschicht, the miners' parade. The Mettenschicht is a celebration of the miners' last shift before Christmas and is celebrated with traditional food, music, and people dressing up in miner uniforms.

精心设计的圣诞市场在整个欧洲和其他地区越来越受欢迎，但最原始和最正宗的圣诞市场可以在德国找到。厄尔士山脉的圣诞市场非常值得一游，不仅因为它们的真实性，还因为圣诞节传统与该地区的采矿文化息息相关。来自这个小地方的圣诞传统现在已经成为大多数欧洲人圣诞装饰的组成部分，该地区甚至被称为“圣诞之乡”。厄尔士山脉最明显的采矿元素是Mettenschicht，即矿工的游行队伍。Mettenschicht是庆祝矿工在圣诞节前的最后一次轮班，人们穿上矿工制服，吃着传统的食物，享受着传统音乐，来庆祝这场盛大的节日。

The wooden Christmas figures that now are crucial for a proper Christmas were first made in these mountains. Wood carvings, in the form of toys, pyramids, and nutcrackers are on display all over towns such as Freiberg and Annaberg around Christmas. The carving tradition has a long history and is also linked to the mining culture of the region. From the 16th century CE, the miners who lost their jobs in unstable periods had to earn money some other way. They then started to use their delicate hand skills learned in the mines to carve wooden figures with motifs often linked to life in the mines or special celebrations such as Christmas. It became an important aspect of Erzgebirge folk art and is now a crucial part of the Christmas traditions in the region and many other places around the world. A special type of wooden figure is especially fascinating; the smoking man. The smoking man is hollow so that you can put incense there, and the smoke will come out of his open mouth so that it looks like he is puffing his pipe.

现在对于圣诞节至关重要的木制圣诞人物最初是在这些山区制作的。在圣诞节前后，玩具、金字塔和胡桃夹子等形式的木雕作品在弗莱贝格和安娜贝格等城镇到处展出。雕刻传统有着悠久的历史，也与该地区的采矿文化有关。从公元16世纪开始，在不稳定时期失去工作的矿工们不得不通过其他方式赚钱。于是，他们开始使用在矿山中学到的精湛手艺来雕刻木制人物，其图案通常与矿山生活或圣诞节等特殊庆祝活动有关。这成为厄尔士山脉民间艺术的一个重要方面，现在是该地区和世界上许多其他地方圣诞节传统的一个重要组成部分。有一种特殊类型的木制人物特别吸引人：吸烟者。吸烟者是中空的，所以你可以把香放在那里，烟会从他张开的嘴里冒出来，这样看起来就像他在吸烟斗。

The celebration of light has always been an important part of Christmas traditions in the northern hemisphere because of its connection to the earlier tradition of celebrating the winter solstice and the return of the sun. However, in the mining region, the focus on light is especially prominent as it was the most sought after 'luxury' amongst the miners. During winter times the miners did not see light except on Sundays if the weather was nice when they went to church. Christmas thus became the time to celebrate light and provide a colorful, warm, and cozy atmosphere for the miners who were most of the time surrounded by cold darkness. When you visit these incredible Christmas markets, the wonderful and magical atmosphere with a focus on lights also stems from the deep darkness of the mines.

庆祝光明一直是北半球圣诞节传统的重要组成部分，因为它与早期庆祝冬至和太阳回归的传统有关。然而，在矿区，对光的关注尤为突出，因为它是矿工中最受追捧的“奢侈品”。在冬季，除了周日天气好的时候去教堂，矿工们几乎看不到光。因此，圣诞节成为庆祝光明的时刻，并为大部分时间被寒冷黑暗包围的矿工们提供一个多彩、温暖、舒适的氛围。当你参观这些令人难以置信的圣诞市场时，以灯光为主的美妙而神奇的气氛也源于矿区的深沉黑暗。