（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第六部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订

The aromas of the city

城市的香气

'The feast of St Marcianus's church is on Good Friday. At the other churches, even St Sophia, no service takes place on Good Friday. On that day the churches are washed, and violet leaves are spread on the ground,' so we are told by the pilgrim Anthony of Novgorod.' Everyone knows of the nasty smells bred in crowded medieval cities. This Russian traveller, who saw Constantinople in 1200 just before it fell to the Crusaders, reminds us that medieval cities were also aromatic in the best sense. There are similar reminders in the Book of Ceremonies compiled by Constantine Porphyrogennetus. Rosemary, though seldom if ever used in cookery in early medieval times, was among the aromas ('chips of pine and wreaths of ivy, bay, myrtle and rosemary') that were used to improve the streets of Constantinople in preparation for an imperial progress; rosemary, myrtle and ivy are similarly prescribed for the decorations of an imperial dining room. On the feast of the Ascension crosses are woven of roses, then in flower, and one of them is presented to the emperor. On Palm Sunday palm leaves, marjoram and other seasonal aromatic plants are made into wreaths for presentation by the emperor to the members of the Senate in the church of St Demetrius.

          “圣马西亚努斯教堂的盛宴是在耶稣受难日。在其他教堂，甚至是圣索菲亚教堂，耶稣受难日都不举行礼拜。那天教堂被打扫干净，紫罗兰叶铺在地上，'诺夫哥罗德的朝圣者安东尼告诉我们。每个人都知道在拥挤的中世纪城市中滋生的难闻气味。这位俄罗斯旅行者在 1200 年君士坦丁堡落入十字军之手之前曾目睹过君士坦丁堡，他提醒我们中世纪的城市在最好的意义上也是芳香的。君士坦丁·波菲罗根图斯编纂的《礼记》也有类似的提示。迷迭香虽然在中世纪早期很少用于烹饪，但它是用于改善君士坦丁堡街道以准备帝国进步的香气（“松树片和常春藤、月桂、桃金娘和迷迭香的花环”）之一 ; 迷迭香、桃金娘和常春藤同样被规定用于皇家餐厅的装饰。在升天的盛宴上，十字架是用玫瑰编织的，然后是花朵，其中一个是献给皇帝的。在棕榈星期日，棕榈叶、马郁兰和其他季节性芳香植物被制成花圈，供皇帝在圣德米特里教堂向元老院成员展示。

The spice market is now a familiar feature of Istanbul. Long before the city had this name it was already a focus of long-distance trade, and in those days spices and aromatics were among the most important and the most-costly trading commodities. Just before 900 the emperor Leo VI (known to later generations as 'the Wise') issued a book of regulations for Constantinople's guilds of retail traders, regulations that were to be enforced by a local magistrate, the City Eparch. Naturally the trade in aromatics figures prominently in the Book of the Eparch, most obviously in the chapter dealing with myrepsoi 'perfumiers'. These tradesmen dealt not only in perfumes and dyes but also in the spices that were used in food, drink, medicines and incenses.

      Every perfumier shall have his own shop, and not invade another's. Members of the guild are to keep watch on one another to prevent the sale of adulterated products. They are not to stock poor quality goods in their shops: a sweet smell and a bad smell do not go together. They are to sell pepper, spikenard, cinnamon, aloeswood, ambergris, musk, frankincense, myrrh, balsam, indigo, dyers' herbs, lapis lazuli, fustic, storax, and in short any article used for perfumery and dyeing. Their stalls shall be placed in a row between the Milestone and the revered icon of Christ that stands above the Bronze Arcade, so that the aroma may waft upwards to the icon and at the same time fill the vestibule of the Royal Palace ... When the cargoes come in from Chaldaea, Trebizond or elsewhere, they shall buy from the importers on the days appointed by the regulations ... Importers shall not live in the City for more than three months; they shall sell their goods expeditiously and then return home ... No member of the guild may purchase grocery goods or those sold by steelyard. Perfumiers shall only buy goods that are sold by weight on scales ... Any perfumier who currently trades also as a grocer shall be allowed to choose one or other of these trades, and shall be forbidden henceforth to carry on the trade that he does not choose.

          香料市场现在是伊斯坦布尔的特色之一。早在这座城市有这个名字之前，它就已经是长途贸易的焦点，当时香料和香料是最重要和最昂贵的贸易商品之一。就在 900 年之前，皇帝利奥六世（被后人称为“智者”）为君士坦丁堡的零售贸易商行会颁布了一本规章制度，这些规章制度将由当地的地方长官 City Eparch 执行。自然，芳烃贸易在《纪元之书》中占有重要地位，最明显的是在涉及 myrepsoi “调香师”的章节中。这些商人不仅经营香水和染料，还经营用于食品、饮料、药品和熏香的香料。

          每个调香师都有自己的店铺，不得侵占他人的店铺。 公会成员要互相监视，以防止销售掺假产品。他们也不在自己的商店里存放劣质商品：甜味和难闻的气味不能并存。他们会出售胡椒、甘香、肉桂、沉香、龙涎香、麝香、乳香、没药、香脂、靛蓝、染药草、青金石、fustic、storax，简而言之，任何用于香水和染色的物品。他们的摊位应在里程碑和矗立在青铜拱廊上方的受人尊敬的基督圣像之间排成一排，这样香气就可以向上飘到圣像上，同时充满皇宫的前厅......当货物从迦勒底、特拉布宗或其他地方进入时，他们应在规定的日期内向进口商购买...... 进口商在本市居住时间不得超过三个月；他们应该迅速卖掉货物然后回家......公会成员不得购买杂货或秤杆出售的商品。 调香师只能购买在秤上按重量出售的商品...... 任何目前兼作杂货商的调香师应被允许选择这些行业中的一种或另一种，并且今后将被禁止从事他没有选择的行业。

This translation is based on the standard one by E.H. Freshfield, but it has needed several corrections in the list of aromatics - a sign of the difficulties that can be caused by the special vocabulary of Byzantine trade.

          此翻译基于 E.H. 的标准翻译。 Freshfield，但它需要在芳烃清单中进行几次更正 - 这表明拜占庭贸易的特殊词汇可能造成困难。

Already by the 890s, the date of this important text, Byzantine trade with southern Asia - by way of 'Chaldaea' or Iraq - had been under Arab control for more than two centuries. Hence there are several Arabic loanwords in the text, barzen 'balsam', loulakhi 'indigo' and lazouren 'lapis lazuli'. Byzantine control of Trebizond, a possible terminus of the Silk Road at the eastern end of the Black Sea, did not prevent an Arab monopoly over the trade in eastern exotics: the Silk Road passed through Iran, which was itself under Arab rule.

          早在 890 年代，也就是这个重要文本的日期，拜占庭与南亚的贸易——通过“迦勒底”或伊拉克——已经在阿拉伯控制之下长达两个多世纪。因此，文本中有几个阿拉伯语介词，barzen 'balsam'、loulakhi 'indigo' 和 lazouren 'lapis lazuli'。 拜占庭对黑海东端丝绸之路可能终点站特拉布宗的控制并没有阻止阿拉伯对东部外来贸易的垄断：丝绸之路穿过伊朗，而伊朗本身就在阿拉伯人的统治之下。

Some of the demand for spices and aromatics came from religion. To assist their customers and increase their profits, dealers set up stalls in the precinct of St Sophia, and apparently sometimes right inside the great church. 'One must not establish a shop within the sacred precincts or display foodstuffs or conduct other sales,' instructed the Canons of the Council at Trullo (section 76), safe evidence that some people did exactly this. They continued to do so in spite of the Canons: the later commentary by Zonaras and Theodore Balsamon draws attention to the problem. 'Note that this Canon relates to those who trade in the perfume shops and barbers' shops around the most holy Great Church, and even more so inside it. These deserve severe punishment,' the lawyers impotently insist.

          对香料和芳香剂的一些需求来自宗教。为了帮助他们的顾客并增加他们的利润，经销商在圣索菲亚区设立了摊位，显然有时就在大教堂内。“不得在圣地内开设商店或展示食品或进行其他销售，”特鲁洛市议会的大典（第 76 条）指示，这是某些人确实这样做的可靠证据。尽管有教规，他们仍继续这样做：佐纳拉斯和西奥多巴尔萨蒙后来的评论引起了人们对这个问题的关注。请注意，这与那些在最神圣的大教堂周围的香水店和理发店交易的人有关，在里面更是如此。这些行为应该受到严厉的惩罚，律师们无力坚持。

The perfumiers' shops even find their way into literature. For reasons that will become evident, Constantinople was fascinated by spices and aromatics - some of its inhabitants even more than others. The Empress Zoe, joint ruler of the Empire in 1042 and a power behind the throne for a rather longer period, took a very special interest in the subject, as Michael Psellus makes clear.

      [Zoe] was an enthusiast for all the most exotic [Indikotata, literally 'the most Indian'] of substances, and particularly for aromatic woods that had not yet lost their natural juices, and for special very small olives, and for very white bay berries ... Her only occupation, to which she devoted all her efforts, was to blend perfumes and to make aromas, to invent or replicate or improve them. Her private apartment was no more royal than a workshop off the market-place complete with perfumers and distillers: she had braziers set up all round it, and her maids were all employed in weighing, blending and other such work.

          调香师的商店甚至进入文学领域。 出于显而易见的原因，君士坦丁堡对香料和芳香剂着迷——其中一些居民甚至比其他人更感兴趣。佐伊皇后是 1042 年帝国的共同统治者，并且在相当长的时期内是王位背后的权力，正如迈克尔·普塞勒斯所明确指出的那样，她对这个主题非常感兴趣。

          [佐伊] 热衷于所有最具异国情调的 [Indikotata，字面意思是“最印度的”] 物质，尤其是尚未失去天然汁液的芳香木材，特别是非常小的橄榄，以及非常白的海湾浆果... 她唯一的职业，她全力以赴，就是调配香水和制造香味，发明或复制或改进它们。她的私人公寓并不比市场外的一个工作室更奢华，那里有调香师和酿酒师：她的四周都放着火盆，她的女仆们都被雇来做称重、混合和其他类似的工作。

The courtier Psellus evidently had occasion (on Palace business of course) to invade Zoe's apartment, to inhale its charged atmosphere and to observe her maids toiling over their unfamiliar tasks. He is no doubt right that Zoe's private hobby was an unusual one for an empress. But the scent of spices and aromatics was a normal one in the Imperial apartments. The Book of Ceremonies, which will not be suspected of lying on such matters, lists a whole range of them that must be stocked in the emperor's cabinet, 'ointments, various incenses, fumigations: mastic, frankincense, sugar, saffron, musk, ambergris, aloes and dry aloeswood, true cinnamon of first and second grades, cassia [xylokinnamomon] and other aromatics'. The list begins to show us how many uses such products had, with those initial words 'ointments, incenses, fumigations', to which one might add 'medicines, flavourings for foods and drinks'.

          朝臣 Psellus 显然有机会（当然是为了宫廷事务）闯入 Zoe 的公寓，感受其中充满活力的气氛，并观察她的女仆们辛勤地完成他们不熟悉的任务。毫无疑问，佐伊的私人爱好对于一位皇后来说是不寻常的，他是对的。但香料和香料的气味在皇家公寓里是很正常的。《礼记》，不会怀疑在这些事情上撒谎，列出了一系列必须存放在皇帝内阁中的物品，“药膏，各种香，熏蒸：乳香、乳香、糖、藏红花、麝香、龙涎香、沉香和干沉香、一级和二级真肉桂、决明子 [xylokinnamomon] 和其他芳香剂。该清单开始向我们展示这些产品有多少用途，最初的词是“软膏、熏香、熏蒸”，人们可能会在其中添加“药物、食品和饮料的调味剂”。

 Spices and perfumes were necessities across the whole Mediterranean and Near Eastern world. Here Constantinople was not at odds with its neighbours. The importance of exotic aromatics is signalled afresh by a curious story of military standoff in the sixth century, at the period when the nomadic Avars were threatening the Empire's northern frontier.

      Meanwhile the Avar Khagan gathered his forces and advanced through Moesia, suddenly appearing at the gates of Tomis. Priscus heard of this and made for the threatened city. Romans and enemy both encamped in the neighbourhood of Tomis and did not break camp when winter came on.

      As spring approached, the Roman troops faced famine, which became acute just before the great Feast of the Passion and Resurrection [30 March 598]. The Khagan miraculously made an offer to the Romans to relieve their famine. Priscus was puzzled and suspicious at this unusual offer, but after guarantees from both sides a five-day truce was agreed: fears were allayed, and the Khagan sent wagons laden with food to the starving Romans. This instance of enemy compassion is still counted as a miracle.

      Three days later, while the Romans were enjoying this unexpected windfall, the Khagan sent Priscus a request for some Indian spices. The general, in response, sent pepper, tejpat, cassia and putchuk, and the enemy leader took great pleasure in these exotic aromas. During the subsequent cease-fire, which lasted until the Romans had celebrated their great public festival, the two forces mingled with no fear on either side.

          香料和香水是整个地中海和近东世界的必需品。君士坦丁堡在这里与其邻国并无矛盾。 6 世纪一个关于军事对峙的奇怪故事再次表明了异国香料的重要性，当时游牧的阿瓦尔人正威胁着帝国的北部边境。

          与此同时，阿瓦尔可汗集结了他的军队，穿过莫西亚，突然出现在托米斯前。普里斯库斯听说了这件事，便前往受威胁的城市。罗马人和敌人都在托米斯附近安营扎寨，冬天来临时没有休息。

          随着春天的临近，罗马军队面临饥荒，就在伟大的激情和复活盛宴（598 年 3 月 30 日）之前变得严重。可汗奇迹般地向罗马人提出了解除饥荒的提议。 普里斯库斯对这个不寻常的提议感到困惑和怀疑，但在双方保证后，双方同意了为期五天的休战：恐惧得到缓解，可汗派出满载食物的马车补给饥饿的罗马人。 这种对仇敌的慈悲，至今仍算奇迹。

          三天后，正当罗马人享受这意外的意外之财时，可汗向普里斯库斯提出要一些印度香料的请求。作为回应，将军送来胡椒、tejpat、决明子和putchuk，敌方首领对这些异国情调的香气非常满意。在随后的停火期间，一直持续到罗马人庆祝了他们的盛大公共节日，两股力量混合在一起，双方都没有恐惧。

未完待续！