殖民地时期的美国面包店(含一份芝麻饼干配方)

As good a test of flour as can be had at sight, is to take up a handful and squeeze it tight; if good, when the hand is unclasped, the lines on the palm of the hand will be plainly defined on the ball of flour. Throw a little lump of dried flour against a smooth surface, if it falls like powder, it is bad.
检验面粉的最好方法是拿起一把面粉捏紧;如果是好的,当手掌松开时,手掌上的线条会在面粉球上清晰地显现出来。把一小块干面粉扔到光滑的表面上,如果它像粉末一样掉下来,那就是坏的。
As with most trades, baking in Colonial America was patterned after English bakeshops or bakehouses. But it was not until the emergence of cities and towns that professional bakers became firmly established in America. As towns grew in size and number and as the frontier expanded westward, commercial bakeries multiplied accordingly. Within a few decades of the founding of Jamestown, Plymouth, and New York, several commercial bakeries were started in the colonies, as early as 1640 in Plymouth and 1645 in New York. Other early settlements were supporting professional bakers by the end of the century. Growth was slow, though. For example, in 1776, New York bakeries numbered only twelve compared to seven for the year 1700.
与大多数行业一样,美国殖民地时期的烘焙业是以英国的面包店或烘烤室为模板的。但是,直到城市和城镇的出现,专业面包师才在美国扎根。随着城镇规模和数量的增长,以及边境向西扩展,商业面包店也相应增加。在詹姆斯敦、普利茅斯和纽约成立后的几十年内,几个商业面包店在殖民地开始营业,早在1640年普利茅斯和1645年纽约就有了。到本世纪末,其他早期定居点也开始出现专业面包师。然而,面包店的增长是缓慢的。例如,1776年,纽约的面包店只有12家,而1700年只有7家。
Bakehouses were usually low, square buildings with windows looking straight out to a river. Bakers worked long, hard hours for comparatively small profits. Work in a country bakery usually started at 5 a.m. with the firing of the oven.
面包房通常是低矮的方形建筑,窗户直视河流。面包师工作时间长,工作强度大,但利润相对较小。乡村面包房的工作通常在早上5点开始,用烤炉烧制面包。

An oven, which stood nearly opposite the entrance, had an iron door that opened to a deep and low cavern paved with flat stones. The oven was heated by burning bundles (faggots) of dried evergreen bushes (furze) or thorns and gorse. When the fuel burned itself out, the baker would rake out the embers and ashes into a trough or recess at the side of the oven (this was called douting). The oven was now ready to receive a batch of loaves
炉子几乎就在入口处对面,有一扇铁门,通向一个深而低的洞穴,里面铺着平坦的石头。炉子是通过燃烧一捆捆干枯的常绿灌木(furze)或荆棘和戈尔兹来加热的。当燃料燃烧殆尽时,面包师会将余烬和灰烬耙到炉子边上的一个槽或凹处(这被称为douting)。准备就绪,烤炉已经准备好接收一批面包了
After heating the oven, the next job was to make up the dough to add to the sponge, which had been left overnight to ferment. As for kneading, lumps of dough were torn off and flung upon the scales, and it was surprising how frequently an experienced man could remove exactly the amount to make a loaf.
在加热烤箱后,下一项工作是将面团加入其中,而海绵式的面团已经被放置了一晚上来发酵。至于揉面,则是把面团撕下来扔到天平上,令人惊讶的是,一个有经验的人可以经常准确地取出制作一个面包的量。
Loaves were made in two sizes, and in early times were not baked in tins. Dough rested for about 30 minutes, during which time rusk biscuits were made and there was a tea break. Using long-handled wooden spades known as peels, the loaves were put in the baking chamber to bake for one hour. After the first batch was cooked and removed, the baker would stoke up the oven again and make it ready for more bread, buns, or doughcakes.
面包有两种尺寸,在早期没有用罐子烘烤。面团静置约30分钟,在这段时间里,人们制作鲁斯克饼干,并有一个茶歇。面包师会使用被称为peel的长柄木铲,将面饼放入烘烤室烘烤一小时。第一批面包烤熟并取出后,面包师会再次点燃烤箱,为烘烤更多的面包、馒头或面团蛋糕做好准备。
When the day’s baking was done, preparations were made for the evening work—gathering the flour and dissolving yeast in warm water to make the sponge.
当一天的烘烤工作完成后,面包师就开始为晚上的工作做准备——准备面粉,将酵母溶解在温水中,制成海绵式的面团。
Because bakehouses were warm, in the wintertime they became places for people to gather and socialize or places for travelers to stop and get relief from inclement weather.
由于面包房很暖和,在冬季,它们成为人们聚集与社交的地方,或者是旅行者停下来等待恶劣天气消散的地方。
In my home state of South Carolina, rice was the colony's great staple and it was served with meats and shellfish and used to make breads, biscuits, flour, puddings, and cakes. Corn served all classes to make Johnny cakes as well as hominy. Wheat was grown by some of the Germans in the interior, but better grades were imported from Pennsylvania and New York. Lowcountry dwellers grew and enjoyed a variety of fruits: oranges, peaches, citrons, pomegranates, lemons, pears, apples, figs, melons, nectarines, and apricots, as well as an array of berries, which were baked into muffins and breads.
在我的家乡南卡罗来纳州,大米是殖民地的主食,它与肉类和贝类一起食用,用来制作面包、饼干、面粉、布丁和蛋糕。玉米为所有阶层的人享用,用于制作约翰尼蛋糕以及玉米粉。内地的一些德国人会种植小麦,但更好的小麦是从宾夕法尼亚州和纽约州进口的。低地居民种植并享用各种水果:橙子、桃子、柑橘、石榴、柠檬、梨、苹果、无花果、甜瓜、油桃和杏,以及各种浆果,它们被用作烤松饼和面包的配料。

Here's a recipe for the popular Benne Seed Cookies baked in colonial times in South Carolina.
这里有一个在南卡罗来纳州的殖民时代烤制的流行的芝麻饼干的配方。
Benne or sesame seeds were brought from Africa to our South by slaves. As they hoed the cotton, they dropped the seeds at each end of the rows, making a border of benne plants. Also, the seeds were scattered over doorsteps to bring good luck. The seeds were roasted and used extensively in desserts and candies.
芝麻是由奴隶从非洲带到南方的。当他们收割棉花时,他们将种子撒在两端,形成一个由芝麻植物组成的边界。此外,芝麻种子还被撒在门阶上,以带来好运。芝麻种子可以烘烤,广泛用于甜点和糖果。
Benne Seed Cookies芝麻饼干
3/4 cups butter 3/4杯黄油
1 1/2 cups brown sugar1 1/2杯红糖
1 egg 1个鸡蛋
1 cup all-purpose flour 1杯中筋面粉
1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2茶匙泡打粉
1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4茶匙盐
1 teaspoon vanilla 1茶匙香草
3/4 cup benne or sesame seeds, toasted 3/4杯烤过的芝麻
Cream butter until soft and pliable. Gradually beat in sugar until mixture is soft and fluffy. Beat in egg until mixture is smooth. Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together; stir into creamed batter. Add vanilla and benne seeds; stir until well blended. Drop teaspoonfuls of batter far apart on buttered cookie sheet; bake in preheated oven at 325 degrees 12-15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Makes about 4 dozen cookies.
搅拌黄油至软化和柔韧。逐渐加入糖,直到混合物变得柔软和蓬松。打入鸡蛋,直到混合物变得光滑。将面粉、泡打粉和盐一起过筛,搅拌到奶油面糊中。加入香草和芝麻籽,搅拌至混合均匀。在涂有黄油的饼干纸上,将一茶匙的面糊丢在一起,在预热好的烤箱中以325度烤12-15分钟,直到饼干微微变色。这些材料约可制作4打饼干。

原文作者:Susan F. Craft
历史小说作家,著有《洋甘菊》,该书获得南方独立书商联盟的奥克拉奖。

原文网址:
https://colonialquills.blogspot.com/2013/11/colonial-american-bakers.html
