先秦风尚——黑水白描的古朴清扬
盘古开天地，女娲抟土造人，第一张披身的毛羽，第一枚骨针，第一架纺轮，“冬日麑裘，夏日葛衣”，“伏羲化蚕为穗帛”……源远流长的中华服饰文化自此起始。
Pangu created the world, Nuwa kneaded the soil to create men. The first feather over person’s body, the first bone needle, the first spinning wheel, ”wore clothes of deerskin in winter and wore clothes of kudzu in summer”, ”Fuxi raised silkworms to make silk”②…The long - standing Chinese clothing culture began from then on.
一、“最早服设大佬”黄帝的“上衣下裳”
FIRST--"The earliest fashion designer" Huang Di’s"Shangyi and Xiachang"
“衣，依也，人所以依以庇寒暑也。”——《释明·释衣服》
其实山顶洞人都已会用骨针缝衣服了。新石器时代，人们会以羽皮、麻葛、蚕丝为材料制作衣，并有纺坠、纺轮，甚至云南和海南少数民族中至今还有应用的原始织机……
The Upper Cave Man already knew how to sew clothes with bone needles. In the Neolithic Age, people would used feather skin, hemp, silk as materials to make clothes, and there were spinning pendants, spinning wheels, and the original loom that ethnic minorities in Yunnan and Hainan are still seldom use ...
当时的织造技术已经基本完备，但那时的衣服就是咱小时候披床单的进阶版，基本爱咋穿咋穿，汉服体系的第一个款式——上衣下裳是谁开创的具体不知，但普遍引用的是一位耳熟能详的人物：
At that time, the weaving technology was basically complete, but the clothes at that time were the advanced version of the sheets we wore when we were young, people can dress however they want. We don't know who created the first style of The Hanfu system -- "Yi and chang"(“Yi”is the coat, “Chang”is the dress.“Yi”wearing above and “Chang”wearing down,), but be considered a familiar figure: Yellow Emperor.
“黄帝尧舜垂衣裳而天下治，盖取诸乾坤。”——《周易·系辞下》
"The Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun lowered their hands and made use of clothes to govern their country, because clothes contained the meaning of heaven and earth." -- 《周易·系辞下》
都知道他推算历法；教导百姓播种五谷；兴文字；作干支，制乐器，创医学，他也是汉服体系的第一个款式——“衣裳”的设计推广者。上衣下裳有何妙处，黄帝能“垂衣裳而治天下”（就是把手一垂，顺其自然）？
We all know that he taught the people to sow grain, promoted writing, made Musical Instruments, create medicine and so on, but he was also the designer and promoter of the first style of hanfu system. What is the meaning of "Yi and Chang"，so that Yellow Emperor lowered their hands and made use of clothes to govern their country?
东汉苟爽的《九家易》回答了这个问题：“衣取象乾，居上覆物，裳取象乾，在下含物也。”乾是天，对应上衣；坤是地，对应下裳。大礼服还要上衣为代表天的玄色，下裳为代表地的黄色。这就不是头悬神明了，是直接把“天地”穿在了身上啊！
The 《九家易》 by Gou Shuang of the Eastern Han Dynasty answers this question: “Yi” represent the image of heaven, worn above, and “Chang” represent the image of earth, worn below. The formal dress also has a black shirt representing the sky and yellow clothes representing the ground. There is not merely a god right above the head, is directly the "heaven and earth" wear on the body !
天人合一，天地秩序在人身，在人心。自然就可以手一垂，无（佛）为（系）而（治）治（国）啦~
At that time, people believed in deity, who would dare to break the law! If so, the Yellow Emperor can put his hands down and let nature take its course.
二、连衣裙鼻祖——深衣
SECOND--The earliest one-piece dress - ”Shenyi”
汩汩的清泉，纤柔的水草，和淑女高挑丰硕的身影。宽袖随微风拂起，三角的裾裹细细柳腰，极宽的绸带缠其上，下裳展开，随步摇曳。衣袂轻盈，步态袅袅，端庄古朴，彰显出颀长的硕人之美，更将古典之美展现到极致。
有人说，深衣是最美的汉服。
The gurgling spring, the soft float grass, and the tall figure of lady. Wide sleeves with the breeze, triangular train wrapped in a thin willow waist, extremely wide silk ribbon wrapped around it, the next skirt spread out, swaying with the step. The clothes are light, the gait is elegant, dignified and simple, showing the beauty of the “beauty of buxom lady”, and showing the beauty of the classic to the extreme.
Some people said, “Shenyi” is the most beautiful kind of hanfu.
深衣却是最流通接地气儿的衣服。都知道在古代，什么人什么场合什么衣服规矩得很。而深衣，无论你是男是女，出身或尊或卑，办红、白事皆可穿，打破着一切界限。
Shenyi is the most current and down-to-earth clothing. We all know that in ancient times there were rules about who wore what on what occasions. However, Shenyi, no matter you are male or female, can be worn by people of high or low birth, wedding or funeral, breaking all boundaries.
深衣从春秋战国开始流行。深衣在裁剪时上衣下裳依旧分开做，以尊崇古时的天地秩序，缝制时由“分体裙”接成了“连衣裙”，故分为上衣下裳两部分，并配有丝绦和大带作为腰带。
Shenyi became popular from the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States Period. In tailoring, the "Yi" and "Chang" were still make separately, in ordered to respect the ancient order of heaven and earth. When sewing, the "split skirt" is connected to the "dress", so it is still divided into two parts, "Yi" and "Chang", and is equipped with silk sash and belt.
深衣分为曲裾和直裾。曲裾，顾名思义，把上衣的裾也就是右襟接成三角形，再把它绕圈到背后用丝带系上。下摆交叠错落，衣襟参差不齐，所以叫曲裾。
There are two kinds of Shenyi: curved train and straight train. The curved train, as the name suggests, is triangular with the right lappet of the jacket, loop around the back and tied with a ribbon. Hem overlapping at random, lappet uneven, so called the curved train.
长长下摆的分层包裹，长长的衣襟用绸带绷着显出腰身。好家伙，视觉修身瘦腰可让老祖宗玩明白了！
The layering of long hem is wrapped, long lappet is stretched with silk belt to show slender waist. Visually being taller and making the waist slender were brilliantly mastered by the ancient Chinese!
等，都在说曲裾，直裾呢？
Wait , all talking about the curved train, where is the straight train.
哦，这不重要。当时还没有裤子，直裾的下摆是垂直的，在侧边，走路一不小心就走光。先秦时期，直裾只落得个“非主流”，下期才是它闪亮登场之时。
Oh, it doesn't matter. There were no trousers then, and the straight lappet hem was vertical, on the side, and it was easy to walk naked. In the pre-Qin period, the straight train only ended up as "non-mainstream", and the next chapter is its shining debut.
稍微了解汉服的都知道，汉服穿的是衣服，更是礼仪。穿深衣，还得“讲礼仪”。
领口直角，象征地道方正；袖根宽袖口收，象征天道圆融；背后一条直缝贯通象征人道正直；下裳用布十二幅象征一年十二月；据《礼记》记载“短毋见肤，长毋被土”，短了暴露肌肤，不彳亍！长了沾上土了，不彳亍！颜色还不能穿错。父母和祖父母建在的可以用花布镶边，只有父母健在的得用青布镶边，30岁没到父亲没了的要用白布镶边；“深衣尚素”，还不能花里胡哨……
Those who know a little about Hanfu know that hanfu is clothes, but also etiquette. Wear Shenyi, but also "etiquette".
A straight slit in the back symbolizes integrity; Twelve pieces of cloth to symbolize the twelve months of the year; According to the 《礼记》, it should not be short enough to expose the skin, and not long enough to drag on the ground. You can't wear the wrong color. Parents and grandparents built can be bordered with floral cloth, only parents living to be bordered with green cloth, 30 years old not to the father's death to be bordered with white cloth; Shenyi should be plain, not fancy...
你晕了吗？反正我是晕了。
Are you confused? I'm confused anyway.
“这应该是一种自由的衣服，具有蓬勃的生命力。”——《华夏遗产 中国衣冠》
"It's supposed to be a free garment with a vibrant vitality." -- Huaxia Heritage Chinese Dress
1982发生了中国古代服饰史上划时代的大事——湖北江陵马山一号楚墓的发掘，这位贵族女子跨越千年，带我们首次领略了先秦服装。
这位女子身高跟本人一样是一米六，随身携带服饰20多件，其中8件是深衣。为什么考古工作者却皱起了眉头呢？因为她穿在外面的那件锦面深衣足足又两米长！一米六的人穿上，是要免费给人拖地啊！
此外，这位女子的深衣下裳的分片数量有五片的、八片的、九片的，就是没有标准的十二片的；颜色缤纷斑斓，纹样是各种奇异华丽的鸟，甚至更繁杂……
好家伙，全是“异端”，雷踩了个遍！
In 1982, an epoch-making event in the history of ancient Chinese clothing took place -- the excavation of the No.1 Chu Tomb in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei province. This noble woman took us to appreciate the clothing of the pre-Qin period for the first time across thousands of years.
The woman was 1.6 meters tall and carries more than 20 pieces of clothing, eight of which are Shenyi. Why did the archaeologists frown? Because the Shenyi made by brocade that she wore outside is two meters long! The height of her is 1.6 meters, she's mopping floors for free?
Moreover, there were five, eight, or nine pieces of cloth for “Chang”, which was not the standard twelve; Patterns are colorful and exotic birds, even more gorgeous...
Oh my god! “thunder” trample all over!
然而随着考古研究的进展，人们惊奇，深衣极度风靡的时代，竟没有一件完全符合《礼记》规矩的深衣。或许一场服饰的革命给深衣带来了百变的自由，或许《礼记》中的“标准深衣”始终只是一种理想。
正如我们说，规矩是死的，人是活的。端庄秀雅，又百花齐放，才是深衣有灵魂的美。
However, with the progress of archaeological research, people are surprised that in the era when Shenyi was extremely popular, there is no Shenyi that completely conforms to the rules of 《礼记》. Perhaps a clothing revolution has brought changeless freedom to Shenyi, or the standard Shenyi in 《礼记》 has always been an ideal.
As we say, rules are dead, people are alive. Dignified and elegant, and Like hundreds of flowers with their own characteristics, is the beauty of the soul of Shenyi.
深衣作为我们最熟悉的汉服之一，到秦汉又继续发展。欲知后事如何，静待下回分解~
As one of the most familiar “hanfu”, Shenyi continued to develop in the Qin and Han dynasties. If you want to know what happens next, wait for the next time ~
三、先秦时期的女子也戴假发？浅谈那些时尚头饰
THIRD--The women in the Pre-Qin period also wore wigs? Something about those fashionable headdresses.
就算现在人们打扮来打扮去，绝大多也就是装饰头这块，古人对脑袋的重视程度就不言而喻啦。接下来就为大家介绍先秦时出现的主要头饰：“髢”、“笄”、“瑱”、“副”、“六珈”。
Nowadays, most people decorate their heads. It is self-evident that the ancients attached great importance to the head. The authors then introduce the main headdresses at the pre-Qin period: "di", "ji", "tian", "fu", "Six Jia" .
“髢(dí)”，就是假发，不用说，是用来增发美发的。
The "di," which is a wig, needless to say, is used to increase hair volume.
《诗经·君子偕老》中“鬓发如云，不屑髢也”的意思就是黑亮的头发像云霞一样，哪还用戴假发。
The Book of Songs said, "Black hair like clouds, no need to wear a wig."
还有一个耳熟能详的发饰就是“笄”，都说“及笄之年”，笄就是女子十五岁行成年礼时固定发髻的簪子。梳髻插笄，叫“及笄”，代表这位姑娘可以出嫁了。
Another well-known hair ornament is the "ji", which is said to be "the age to wear the” ji". The “ji” is the hairpin fixed in a bun at the age of 15 when a girl performs the rite of coming of age, means the girl is ready to get married.
除此之外，还有“瑱(tiàn)”——挂在耳上的玉饰。
In addition, there are "tian", which are jade ornaments hanging from the ear.
接下来，就是上流社会专属“奢华高定”
Next, there's "luxury haute Couture" for the upper classes.
毛传：“副者，后夫人之首饰编髮为之。笄，衡笄也。珈，笄饰之最盛者，所以别尊卑。”
如果女子有幸成为王后或诸侯夫人，她会获得超级加倍华贵的“副笄六珈”一套头饰。“副”就是包含髢的头饰组，还要在上面根据穿着者的地位配上笄、六珈。
is the superlative kind of `ji,` used to distinguish between high and low status."
If a woman becomes a queen or the lady of a vassal, she will receive a set of luxurious headdresses called "Fuiji Liujia". "fu" refers to the headdress group containing “Di”, on which the “ji”and “Xis jia” are matched according to the wearer's status.
刚才提到的珈，就是带着玉饰的笄。在先秦时期，能戴珈，家世可就不是有钱这么简简单单的了，珈的数量是用来显示身份的，数量越多背景就越厚，而“六珈”是侯伯夫人才可以使用的。
Jia, mentioned just now, is the planer with jade ornaments. In the pre-Qin period, people who could wear jia were not only rich, the number of jia was used to show their status, and the more the number of jia, the more noble the wearer would be. while the "Six Jia" was only used by the queen or the princes' wives.
“副笄六珈”这一整套下来，再用衡笄（用来横着通传过去的簪子）一插，天家富贵这范儿立马就上来了！
a whole set of "Fuji liujia" wear on the head, and then use the thwartwise ji to fixed, the wearer immediately have a noble aura!
四、极致的风雅——详解《诗经》中的“硕人之美”
FOURTH--Extreme Elegance: A Detailed Explanation of the “beauty of buxom lady” in The Book of Songs
一晃间，见两棵粗糙老树只见黑褐枝丫，挂着千年如一的皎月，洒下绵绵的柔光。树后木房中，映着火光，修长的剪影徐徐转向前，带着青铜器一般的端正凝重，带着乡土天地一般的朴实淳厚。始终高傲地挺立着，却又那么娉婷秀颀。
Absentminded, I saw two rough old trees only with black and brown branches, hanging the same bright moon for thousands of years, sprinkle under the soft light. In the wooden house behind the tree, reflecting the fire, the slender silhouette slowly turned forward, With the same dignified as bronze, with the same simple as the field. Always standing proud, yet so graceful.
《诗经》，是中国古代诗歌开端，真实地反映了西周初年至春秋中叶的社会风尚。请诸君与我感受人的诗情与美的画意。
The Book of Songs, the beginning of ancient Chinese poetry, truly reflects the social fashion from the early Western Zhou Period to the middle of the Spring and Autumn Period. Please join me in feeling the emotion and beauty of this poem.
硕人其颀，衣锦褧衣。齐侯之子，卫侯之妻。东宫之妹，邢侯之姨，谭公维私。
手如柔荑，肤如凝脂，领如蝤蛴，齿如瓠犀，螓首蛾眉，巧笑倩兮，美目盼兮。
硕人敖敖，说于农郊。四牡有骄，朱幩镳镳。翟茀以朝。大夫夙退，无使君劳。
——《诗经·卫风·硕人节选》
翻译：
好个修美的女郎，麻纱罩衫锦绣裳。她是齐侯的女儿，她是卫侯的新娘，她是太子的阿妹，她是邢侯的小姨，谭公又是她姊丈。
手像春荑好柔嫩，肤如凝脂多白润，颈似蝤蛴真优美，齿若瓠子最齐整。额角丰满眉细长，嫣然一笑动人心，明眸一转摄人魂。
好个高挑的女郎，车歇郊野农田旁。看那四马多雄健，红绸系在马嚼上，华车徐驶往朝堂。诸位大夫早退朝，今朝莫太劳君王。
What a beautiful girl, a beautiful cambric blouse. She was the daughter of The Marquis of Qi, the bride of the Marquis of Wei, the sister of the crown prince, the aunt of The Marquis of Xing, and tan Gong was her brother-in-law.
Her hands were soft as burgeon, his skin as white as grease, her neck as graceful as longicorn's larva, her teeth as neat as a vegetable marrow’s seeds. Forehead plump and eyebrow slender. A smile moving heart, bright eyes a turn to take the soul.
What a tall girl, driving beside a field. Look at the four horses, with their red silk tied to their horses' chews, and the magnificent chariot driving slowly towards the court. Leave the court early. Do not strain your king today.
--The Book of Songs buxom lady
简直是生物爱好者写美人对不对？别着急，先往下翻。
诗中的女子是嫁给卫庄公的齐国公主——庄姜。介绍庄姜身材的“硕人其颀”、“硕人敖敖”中的“颀”和“敖”都是形容高的，而“硕”——高挑壮硕、健美丰满，是先秦时期女性身材的典范。
“这种对女性壮硕丰满的赞扬，带着夏禹前中国母系社会对女性尊重的历史惯性，行将驶向审美并不相同的未来。”——《粉黛罗绮 中国古代女子服饰时尚》。
另一个原因是，当时社会生产力低，人类要面对大自然的腥风血雨，女孩子也要有强健的体魄才行！
It's like a biology lover writing about beauty, isn't it? Don't worry. Just keep reading.
The woman in the poem is zhuang Jiang, a princess of the State of Qi who married Duke Zhuang of Wei. Zhuang Jiang's figure was introduced in the words "硕人其颀" and "硕人敖敖", where the "颀" and "敖" are both tall , which is the model of female figure in the pre-Qin period.
"This kind of praise for women's strength and fullness carries the historical tradition of respecting women in the Chinese matriarchal society before Xia and Yu, and then moves to a different aesthetic future." -- Fandai Luoqi-Fashion of Women's Clothing in Ancient China
Another reason was that at that time, social productivity was low, human beings had to face the violence of nature, and girls also had to have a strong body!
参差荇菜，左右流之。窈窕淑女，寤寐求之。
参差荇菜，左右采之。窈窕淑女，琴瑟友之。
参差荇菜，左右芼之。窈窕淑女，钟鼓乐之。
——《诗经·风·周南·关雎节选》
翻译：
左右摇摆的荇菜，在船的左右两边采摘。文静美好的淑女，日日夜夜都思念着她。
参差不齐的荇菜，在船的左右两边摘取。娴静美好的淑女，弹琴鼓瑟来同她友好。
交叉错落的荇菜，在船的左右两边去挑选。贤良美好的淑女，敲起钟鼓使她快乐。
Swinging Nymphoides peltatum, picked on either side of the boat. Quiet and beautiful lady, day and night miss her.
Ragged Nymphoides peltatum, picked on the left and right sides of the boat. Demure lady, play the harp to be friendly with her.
Crossed Nymphoides peltatum, picking on the left and right sides of the boat. Virtuous lady, beat the bell drum to make her happy.
--The Book of Songs Guan Ju
静女其姝，俟我于城隅。爱而不见，搔首踟蹰。
静女其娈，贻我彤管。彤管有炜，说怿女美。
自牧归荑，洵美且异。匪女之为美，美人之贻。
——《诗经·邶风·静女》
翻译：
娴静姑娘真美丽，约我等在城角旁，却故意躲藏起来，搔头徘徊心紧张。
娴静姑娘真貌美，送我身漆朱的笔。鲜红笔管有光彩，喜爱它漂亮光泽。
远自郊野赠柔荑，诚然美好又珍异。不是荑草本身美，美人相赠情意厚。
Demure girl is so beauteousl, I wait at the corner of the city, but deliberately hide, head wandering nervous.
The lady at ease is pretty. Give me a pen in ink. Bright red pen tube has luster, love its beautiful luster.
She gave me bulrush from a distant country, indeed beautiful and rare. The bulrush itself is not so beautiful, but lover gives affection is thick.
--The Book of Songs Demure female
读者老爷发现了吗？《硕人》中的“手若柔荑”中的“柔荑”的意思是初生的嫩芽，形容手的柔嫩；“齿如瓠犀”中的“瓠犀”的意思是瓠瓜的籽，形容牙齿齐且白；还有“华如桃李”中的“桃”，“参差荇菜”以“荇菜”喻淑女的勤劳品格。《诗经》取花草等自然之物，朴素清扬，彰显着天然去雕饰的自然之美。
在水一方的伊人，湖畔间与爱人以荑草定情的女子，溪水中采荇的佳人……反而处处显着“素然真率”。毫不着色的至纯，正是最迷人的人性之美。
Did you notice that? The Book of Songs take flowers and plants and other natural things, freshness and simple, highlighting the natural beauty .
They were in the water side, or love with catkin grass as a token of love between the lake, or in the water lettuce picking. Pure and uncolored, it is the most charming human nature their beauty.
钱锺书先生曾道：诗经中美人如画像之水墨白描，未渲染丹黄。我们找不到受周礼禁锢的循规蹈矩的形象。身形不求娇柔，生性纯朴真率，一股扑面而来的野性质朴气息，给人留下无限遐想空间。
屏幕前的你，是否苦苦追求着当今框架中的所谓“美”呢？试着自然洒脱一些吧，最令自己畅快的，正是应追求的。
Qian Zhongshu once said:The women in The Book of Songs is like an ink painting, without fancy colors. We can't find an image of propriety imprisoned by zhou etiquette. The shape does not ask for the delicate, the character is pure and simple, a feeling of wild simplicity, leaving infinite imagine space for people.
In front of the screen, are you struggling to pursue the so-called "beauty" in today's frame? Try to be free and easy, what makes you happy is what you should pursue.
先秦风尚就告一段落。“秦王扫六合，虎视何雄哉！”伴随着辣个猛男的到来，又迎来新的秦汉篇章，等待下期会仔细唠！
Pre-qin fashion will come to an end. "sweeping through six kingdoms, How majestic he looked at the six vassal states like a tiger!" With the arrival of this eminent persons in history, ushered in a new chapter of the Qin and Han dynasties, please waiting for the next period ~
