（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第十一部分）

作者生平：

          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订 

Fish and fish sauce

鱼和鱼露

 This sketch of the medieval markets of Constantinople serves to introduce a quick survey of Byzantine foodstuffs.

           这张君士坦丁堡中世纪市场的草图用于介绍对拜占庭食品的快速调查。

Early Byzantion had been a fine place for fish, and so is modern Istanbul. Imperial Constantinople was no different. Empty nets in the Hellespont in the tunny season were rare indeed - and were considered the work of the Devil.  In addition to all the seafood delicacies known to classical Greece, the Byzantines appreciated salted grey mullet roe, ootarikhon (literally 'egg pickle': the Greek word is the source of Coptic outarakhon and thus of Arabic butarkhah and of the modern term 'botargo');' by the twelfth century they had tasted caviar, kabiari, the new fish delicacy of the Black Sea. Still later they imported kippered herrings, rengai, from distant Britain.

           早期的拜占庭是捕鱼的好地方，现代的伊斯坦布尔也是如此。君士坦丁堡也不例外。在金枪鱼季节，赫勒斯庞特的空网确实很少见——这被认为是魔鬼的杰作。除了古典希腊已知的所有海鲜美食外，拜占庭人还喜欢盐渍灰鲻鱼子 ootarikhon（字面意思是“鸡蛋泡菜”：希腊词是科普特语 outarakhon 的来源，因此也是阿拉伯语 butarkhah 和现代术语“botargo”的来源） );' 到 12 世纪，他们已经尝到了鱼子酱、卡比亚里（kabiari），这是黑海的新鱼类佳肴。 再后来，他们从遥远的英国进口了鲱鱼，renai。

In surveying the fish (and other foods) detailed in the texts in chapter 6, one keeps in mind that dieticians do not write about foods that nobody eats. They advise, wisely or unwisely, those who have the power of choice. One author thought that 'grey mullet is rather unhealthy' and that 'oily fish ... are poor eating and produce bad humours' and that tuna is 'to be eaten pickled or salted'; we conclude that grey mullet, oily fish (such as mackerel) and (in season) fresh tuna were certainly on the Byzantine menu. Also on the menu were red mullet, as highly favoured as ever it had been in classical times; sea bass, still one of the pleasures of Istanbul; skate, monkfish and also sting-ray and electric ray, the last two less favoured nowadays. Crabs, lobsters and crayfish were sought after; so were octopuses, curled octopuses, squids and cuttlefish. The range of shellfish included oysters, mussels, scallops, cockles and winkles.

           在调查第 6 章中详述的鱼（和其他食物）时，请记住，营养师不会写没人吃的食物。 他们明智地或不明智地建议那些有选择权的人。 一位作者认为“灰鲻鱼相当不健康”，“油性鱼……吃得不好，脾气不好”，金枪鱼“腌制或腌制食用”； 我们得出结论，灰鲻鱼、油性鱼（如鲭鱼）和（时令）新鲜金枪鱼肯定在拜占庭菜单上。 菜单上还有红鲻鱼，它在古典时期一直备受青睐； 鲈鱼，仍然是伊斯坦布尔的特色之一；安康鱼，还有黄貂鱼和电鳐，最后两种现在不太受欢迎。螃蟹、龙虾和小龙虾受到追捧； 章鱼、卷曲章鱼、鱿鱼和墨鱼也是如此。 贝类的范围包括牡蛎、贻贝、扇贝、鸟蛤和海螺。

The fish sauce of Constantinople is very circumstantially mentioned by Liutprand of Cremona. He expresses drily his distaste at being sent a portion of a fat kid of which the Emperor had himself partaken, 'proudly stuffed with garlic, onion, leeks, swimming in fish sauce'. This was not his first encounter with the product. He had been invited to dine at the Palace shortly after his arrival:

       That day he summoned me to dine with him. But he would not place me above any of his own great men, so I sat fifteen places from him and without a tablecloth. Not only did no one of my suite sit with me: they did not even set eyes upon the building where I was entertained. This dinner was quite nasty and unspeakable, drunkenly awash with oil and drenched with another very unpleasant liquid made from fish.

          君士坦丁堡的鱼露被克雷莫纳的 Liutprand 间接地提及到。“自豪地塞满了大蒜、洋葱、韭菜，在鱼酱里游泳”。 这不是他第一次接触该产品。 抵达后不久，他被邀请到皇宫用餐：

          那天他叫我和他一起吃饭。但他不会把我放在他所知的任何伟人之上，所以我坐在距离他十五位的地方，没有桌布。 不仅我的套房中没有人和我坐在一起：他们甚至没有看到我招待的那栋建筑。 这顿晚餐非常恶心，难以形容，醉醺醺的，沾满了油，还沾满了另一种非常难闻的鱼制成的液体。

To judge from the way Liutprand puts it, fish sauce (garum or liquamen in Latin), once a familiar flavour across the whole Roman Empire, had clearly been forgotten in the West by the tenth century, for better or for worse. He and his expected readership knew little of it. But Constantinople, as he discovered, retained its liking for garos. In fact it continued to do so until the early years of Turkish rule and the visit of Pierre Belon in the sixteenth century:

      There was a liquor called garum which was once as widely used at Rome as vinegar is now. We found it as popular in Turkey as it ever was. There is not a fishmonger's shop in Constantinople that has not some for sale ... The garum-makers of Constantinople are mostly in Pera. They prepare fresh fish daily, sell it fried, and make use of the entrails and roe, steeping them in brine to turn them into garum.

           从Liutprand 的说法来看，鱼露（拉丁语中的garum 或liquamen）曾经是整个罗马帝国熟悉的风味，到了10 世纪，无论好坏，显然已经被西方遗忘了。 他和他的预期读者对此知之甚少。但正如其所发现的那样，君士坦丁堡仍然喜欢加洛斯。事实上，它一直如此，直到土耳其统治的早期和 16 世纪皮埃尔·贝隆的访问：

          有一种酒叫做garum，它曾经在罗马被广泛使用，就像现在的醋一样。 我们发现它在土耳其和以往一样受欢迎。 君士坦丁堡没有一家鱼贩店不出售一些鱼……君士坦丁堡的garum 制造商大多在佩拉。 他们每天准备新鲜的鱼，将其油炸出售，并利用内脏和鱼子，将它们浸泡在盐水中将它们变成鱼腥味。

Fermented fish sauce gives a strong and unmistakable aroma to any food, but, just as with soy sauce, its chief nutritional effect is to add salt. Fish sauce had been an ingredient in hundreds of the Roman recipes of Apicius (salt per se was called for in only three of them). Similarly, salt is seldom mentioned in the Byzantine texts translated in this book, while fish sauce occurs in them frequently.

          发酵鱼露给任何食物都带来强烈而明显的香气，但就像酱油一样，它的主要营养作用是添加盐分。 鱼露是阿皮丘斯数百种罗马食谱中的一种成分（其中只有三种需要盐）。 同样，在本书翻译的拜占庭文本中，盐也很少提及，而鱼露却经常出现在其中。

The recipes for garos in chapter 7 are probably of Roman date, like most of the texts incorporated in the Byzantine farming manual Geoponica, which, incidentally, was compiled in Liutprand's own lifetime. The bishop, when dining at the Palace, may be supposed to have smelt and tasted the result of just such processes as these. The traditional method for making fish sauce as a cottage industry in modern south-east Asia is entirely similar.

          第 7 章中的garos 食谱可能是罗马日期的，就像拜占庭农业手册 Geoponica 中包含的大多数文本一样，顺便提一下，该手册是在Liutpran自己用一生所编写的。主教在皇宫用餐时，可能已经闻到并品尝了这些美食过程的结果。 现代东南亚家庭手工业制作鱼露的传统方法与过去拜占庭完全相似。

未完待续！