(书籍翻译)拜占庭的味道:传奇帝国的美食 (第三十部分)


作者生平:
安德鲁·达尔比(Andrew Dalby)是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家,以他关于食物史(尤其是希腊和罗马帝国)的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍,获得了 Runciman(朗西曼)奖,他的第二本书《dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium :The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订

[x] Foods that produce bad humours
能产生坏液体的食物
[14] Bad humours are not all of one kind: some foods are more phlegmatic, some more bilious, some more atrabilious. All such foods are best avoided, even if they are good to eat, in case over time bad humours are stored in the veins, and from this small beginning putrefaction may cause dangerous fevers. The following produce bad humours.
The meat of sheep and goats, equally if it has a sharp taste; that of billy-goats and rams is worst, also of bulls, while that of castrated animals is the finest. Old animals are much worse than young ones. Hare meat produces very thick blood. The meat of oxen and sheep is better for producing good humours. The meat of deer fawns produces bad humours. So do the testicles of fully grown animals, except cocks; so does brain of all animals, and spinal marrow, and spleen. So does liver, a little more than these; and worst are the vital organs of animals.
Productive of bad humours are fried eggs, mature cheeses, grape hyacinth bulbs, mushrooms, fenugreek, lentils, einkorn, oats; [emmer, which is between wheat, einkorn and oats;] foxtail millet, broomcorn millet; no such foods produce good humours.
Among fish, gobies, dogfish, rascasses, groupers, red mullets that feed on shrimps, all large fish.
All fruits: fresh figs are a little more productive of bad humours than the rest; so are grapes. Dried figs in excess. Unripe pears.
Artichokes, particularly when they become coarse, cucumbers, melons. Gourds are the best of these if they are fully ripe.
No greens produce good humours. Midway between good and bad are lettuce and endive; after these mallows, orach, purslane, blite, sorrel. Vegetable roots, if sharp-flavoured, produce bad humours: onions, leeks, garlic, cabbage stalk, carrots, turnips, grape-hyacinth bulbs unless well boiled. Onions, leeks, garlic and Levant garlic lose their bad humours if boiled twice. Wild greens are productive of bad humours in the extreme, including dandelion, sow-thistle, chicory and the like.
Thick wines, austere and with poor aroma.
[14] 产生坏液体并不都是一种:有些食物吃了多痰湿,有些多胆汁,有些则比较可怕。这些食物最好都不要吃,即使它们是好东西,以防不良体液长期储存在静脉中,并可能导致发烧。下列食物会产生坏情绪。
绵羊和山羊的肉,如果味道尖锐,也是如此;小山羊和公羊的肉最差,公牛的肉也是如此,而阉割过的动物的肉是最好的。老的动物比年轻的动物要差得多。野兔的肉会产生很浓的血。牛和羊的肉更能产生好气色。鹿崽子的肉会产生坏液体。成年动物的睾丸也会产生坏液体,但公鸡除外;所有动物的大脑、脊髓和脾脏都是如此。肝脏也是如此,但比这些多一点;最糟糕的是动物器官。
煎蛋、熟奶酪、葡萄籽球茎、蘑菇、葫芦巴、小扁豆、小米、燕麦;[小米,介于小麦、小米和燕麦之间;] 糜子,谷子;没有这样的食物能产生好气色。
在鱼类中,虾虎鱼、狗鱼、鲈鱼、石斑鱼、以虾为食的红鲻鱼,所有大鱼。
所有的水果:新鲜的无花果比其他食物更容易产生坏液体;葡萄也是如此。干无花果过量。未成熟的梨子。
朝鲜蓟,特别是当它们变得粗糙的时候,黄瓜,甜瓜。葫芦是其中最好的,如果它们完全成熟了。
没有绿色植物能产生良好的体液。介于好与坏之间的是生菜和苣荬菜;在这些之后是柳树、燕麦、马齿苋、白菜、苏木。蔬菜的根部,如果味道尖锐,就会产生坏液体:洋葱、韭菜、大蒜、卷心菜茎、胡萝卜、芜菁、葡萄籽球茎,除非充分煮熟。洋葱、韭菜、大蒜如果煮沸两次,就会失去其制造坏液体的能力。野生蔬菜会产生极端的坏液体,包括蒲公英、耧斗菜、菊苣等。
浓厚的葡萄酒,朴素且香气不佳。

[xi] Foods that produce phlegm
生痰的食物
[15] Fibrous parts of animals, such as the feet and the skin, brain, lungs, spinal marrow. Lamb. Mushrooms, meat of hard-shelled seafood and of cephalopods. Unripe apples.
[15] 动物的纤维部分,如脚和皮肤、大脑、肺、脊髓骨髓。羊肉。蘑菇,硬壳海产品和头足类动物的肉。未成熟的苹果。

[xii] Foods that produce black bile
产生黑胆汁的食物
[16] Meat of oxen and of goats, and in particular the meat of bulls and of billy-goats, also hares, [wild boar.] Salt meat of quadrupeds. Among seafood, tuna; winkles. Among vegetables, cabbage and the young shoots of trees prepared in brine or vinegar and brine. Lentils are more productive of black bile than any other legume. Also wheat bran and that of einkorn, broomcorn millet, [foxtail millet,] vetch. Thick and black wines.
[16] 牛和羊的肉,特别是公牛和小山羊的肉,还有野兔、[野猪]四足动物的咸肉。海产品中,金枪鱼;水貂。在蔬菜中,卷心菜和用盐水或醋和盐水烹制的树木的嫩芽。扁豆比其他任何豆类都更能产生黑胆汁。还有麦麸和糜子,谷子,Vetch的麦麸。浓酒和黑酒。

[xiii] Foods that produce bile
能够产生胆汁的食物
[17] Carobs, artichokes, honey (but they reduce bile in hot constitutions). Sweet wines.
[17] 角豆、洋蓟、蜂蜜(但它们在热性体质中会减少胆汁)、甜酒。

[xiv] Foods that produce thin humours
产生稀薄体液的食物
[18] Durum wheat bread and durum wheat itself and trakhanas. Animal offal, the bones, ears, snouts, neck; fresh pork and caprine meat. Equally, grape-hyacinth bulbs, [cucumbers,] semi-dried dates.
[18] 硬质小麦面包和硬质小麦本身以及特拉卡纳斯。动物内脏、骨头、耳朵、鼻子、脖子;新鲜猪肉和山羊肉。同样的,葡萄籽球茎,[黄瓜,]半干的枣。

[xv] Foods that produce raw humours
产生原始体液的食物
Fresh dates. Turnips. The flesh of hard-shelled seafood after long boiling, discarding the cooking liquor; also soft-bodied seafood such as octopuses, cuttlefish, squid, curled octopus; also larger fish including tuna, scad, swordfish. Animal offal: intestines, tripe, womb. Yoghourt, [young cheeses, lupins, grapes: when they control the digestion] these produce cold humours also.
鲜枣。萝卜。长时间煮沸后的硬壳海鲜的肉,但要倒掉烹调液;还有软体海鲜,如章鱼、墨鱼、鱿鱼、卷曲的章鱼;还有较大的鱼,包括金枪鱼、竹英鱼、剑鱼。动物内脏:肠子、肚皮、子宫。酸奶[新鲜奶酪],羽扇豆,葡萄:当它们控制消化时]这些也会产生湿寒。

[xvi] Foods that are not windy
不受风的食物
cumin, seed and root of lovage, linseed, hemp seed, roasted broad beans, grape-hyacinth bulbs, boiled, in olive oil and fish sauce and eaten with vinegar. Honey if skimmed. Honey vinegar, in order also to open the lungs. Barley bread.
小茴香、野菜的种子和根、亚麻籽、麻籽、烤蚕豆、葡萄籽球茎,煮熟后放在橄榄油和鱼露中,和醋一起吃。蜂蜜如果脱脂。蜂蜜醋,也是为了打开肺部。大麦面包。

[xvii] Foods that are windy
易胀气的食物
[19] Chickpeas, lupins, black-eyed peas, Lathyrus Ochrus, broomcorn millet, broad beans, fresh dates. Milk, especially cold. Grape hyacinth bulbs if undercooked. Honey if boiled. Wines that are both sweet and austere. Figs, both fresh ripe and dried.
[19] 鹰嘴豆、羽扇豆、黑眼豌豆、赭色香碗豆、糜子、蚕豆、鲜枣。牛奶,特别是冷牛奶。未煮熟的葡萄风信子球茎。煮过的蜂蜜。既有甜味又有苦味的葡萄酒。无花果,包括新鲜成熟的和晒干的。

[xviii] Foods that produce thick humours
能产生浓稠体液的食物
[20] Bread baked in the clay oven, must-cakes, pasta, cakes. Black-eyed pea pods, lupins, [roasted broad beans, sesame.] Shark-like fish, cuttlefish, octopuses, oysters, mussels, scallops, fan-mussels, horn shells, clams, razor-shells, eels, winkles. Venison, caprine meat, beef, hare, pork. Liver, kidneys, testicles, brain, [spinal marrow,] udder, tongue. Fully boiled milk, cheeses of all kinds, yoghourt, hard-boiled eggs; more so, oeufs en cocotte cooked till they are hard; still more so, fried eggs. Chestnuts, acorns, grape-hyacinth bulbs, turnips, truffles. Arbutus fruits, slightly unripe figs, the flesh of lemons, gherkins, melons, ripe apples. Sweet wines; more so, fresh must and concentrated must.
[20] 泥炉中烘烤的面包,芥末饼,意大利面,蛋糕。黑眼豆荚,羽扇豆,[烤蚕豆,芝麻。] 类似鲨鱼的鱼,墨鱼,章鱼,牡蛎,贻贝,扇贝,角壳,蛤蜊,蛏子,鳗鱼,温克尔。鹿肉,山羊肉,牛肉,野兔,猪肉。肝脏、肾脏、睾丸、大脑、[脊骨髓、]乳房、舌头。煮熟的牛奶、各种奶酪、酸奶、煮熟的鸡蛋、煎鸡蛋。栗子、橡子、葡萄球茎、萝卜、松露。熊果、未成熟的无花果、柠檬的果肉、小黄瓜、甜瓜、成熟的苹果。甜酒;更多的是新鲜的葡萄汁和浓缩的葡萄汁。

[xix] Foods that are especially nourishing
特别滋补的食物
[2I] Pork. Beef. Brain, testicles, heart, spinal marrow and other marrow. Chicken wings, and the wings of geese and other birds. The coarser of hard-shelled seafood, including horn-shells, winkles, lobsters, crabs [pagouria], shrimps, [crayfish,] ocropuses, cuttlefish, squid and the like. Electric ray, sting-ray, skates and rays, monkfish, red mullet. Durum wheat bread and white flour bread, boiled wheat, durum wheat, broad beans, chickpeas, black-eyed peas, Lathyrus Ochrus, fenugreek, [lablab beans,] grape-hyacinth bulbs twice boiled. Skimmed honey; well-boiled honey water. Lupins, chestnuts, lentils. Sweet dates, sweet and 'oily' raisins. Acorns. Turnips. Thick wines, rose wines: more than these, black, sweet and thick wines; and astringent wines.
[2I] 猪肉。牛肉。脑、睾丸、心脏、脊柱骨和其他骨髓。鸡翅,以及鹅和其他鸟类的翅膀。较为粗糙的硬壳海鲜,包括角壳、温克鱼、龙虾、螃蟹[寄居蟹]、虾、[小龙虾、]虾蛄、墨鱼、乌贼等。电鱼、刺鱼、鳐鱼和魟鱼、鮟鱇鱼、红鲻鱼。硬质小麦面包和白面面包,煮熟的小麦,硬质小麦,蚕豆,鹰嘴豆,黑眼豆,糜子,葫芦巴,[拉布拉豆,]葡萄籽球茎两次煮熟。脱脂蜂蜜;煮熟的蜂蜜水。羽扇豆,栗子,扁豆。甜枣,甜的和 "油"的葡萄干。橡子。萝卜。浓酒、玫瑰酒:比这些更多的是黑酒、甜酒、涩酒。

[xx] Foods that are least nourishing
最没营养的食物
[22] The extremities of animals; the womb, intestine, tripe, tail, ears; the fat. In general all kinds of birds are less nourishing than quadrupeds, and all kinds of old animals by comparison with those that are still growing. Fish as food produces very light blood. Among hard-shelled seafood, those with soft flesh, such as oysters. Barley bread, bran bread, whole meal bread, [but also 'washed' bread, frumenty;] oats, broomcorn millet, foxtail millet, rice, fresh broad beans. Mulberries, almonds, pistachios, cornels, plums, peaches, aubergines, apricots, sloes, [black olives, hazelnuts and especially filberts, walnuts, jujubes.] Capers, beet, sorrel, dock, purslane, radish, turnip, mustard, cress, asparagus [of all kinds], carrot. Onion, garlic, leek and Levant garlic, raw, provide absolutely no nourishment, but a very little if boiled two or three times. Pomegranates, pears, gourds. Raisins if astringent and not 'oily'. Figs are more nourishing, but they make the flesh spongy and porous, as do grapes; grapes are less nourishing than figs.
[22] 动物的四肢;子宫、肠道、肚皮、尾巴、耳朵;脂肪。一般来说,各种鸟类的营养都不如四足动物,各种老的动物与那些仍在生长的动物相比,营养更少。鱼类作为食物会产生很轻的血液。在硬壳海鲜中,那些肉质柔软的海鲜,如牡蛎。大麦面包、麦麸面包、全麦面包,[但也有'洗过的'面包,牛奶麦粥;]燕麦、栗子、谷子、大米、新鲜蚕豆。桑葚、杏仁、开心果、玉米、李子、桃子、茄子、杏子、苏子、[黑橄榄、榛子,特别是丝瓜、核桃、红枣]。 辣椒、甜菜、苏子、马齿苋、萝卜、芜菁、芥末、水芹、芦笋[各种]、胡萝卜。洋葱、大蒜、韭菜和大蒜,生吃完全没有营养,但如果煮两三次就会有、一些营养。石榴、梨子、葫芦。葡萄干具有收敛性且不 "油腻"。无花果更有营养,但会使肉质变得松软多孔,葡萄也是如此;葡萄的营养比无花果要差。

[xxii] Foods that produce excrement
能产生排泄物的食物
[23] Wood pigeons; geese, except the wings. All vital organs including liver, spleen, [kidney,] tripe, womb, intestine, spinal marrow, brain. Birds that feed in lakes. Chickpeas, fresh broad beans. Piglets; mutton and the meat of all animals pastured in wild country. River and lake fish, fish that feed on mud, shark-like sea creatures.
[23] 木鸽子;鹅,除了翅膀。所有重要器官,包括肝脏、脾脏、[肾脏、]肚皮、子宫、肠道、脊髓、大脑。在湖里觅食的鸟类。鹰嘴豆,新鲜蚕豆。小猪;羊肉和所有在野外放养的动物的肉。河流和湖泊的鱼,以泥土为食的鱼,类似鲨鱼的海洋生物。

[xxiii] Slimming foods
瘦身食品
[24] Garlic, onions, leek, cress, mustard, pepper, oregano, mint, hyssop, pennyroyal, Cretan thyme, Roman hyssop served fresh, rocket, celery, parsley, radish, cabbage, beet, golden thistle, fennel, coriander, rue, dill, cumin, capers, anise, carrot seed. Barley. Inshore fish. Birds that feed on dry land, the smaller birds and mountain birds: starlings, thrushes, blackbirds, partridges, wrens; small birds caught in vineyards, pigeons fed in their towers. Among deep sea fish, sting-rays and [electric rays have the same effect, also sole, brill; larger animals and birds, to be eaten one day after slaughtering; salt meats if tender.] The more succulent and juicier of fruits, dried figs with walnuts, pistachios, slightly bitter almonds. Olives are moderately slimming. White and light wines. Cream is helpful to slimming and to a light diet, and honey vinegar is especially so.
[24] 新鲜的大蒜、洋葱、韭菜、水芹、芥末、胡椒、牛至、薄荷、牛膝草、菥蓂、克里特百里香、罗马牛膝草、芝麻菜、欧芹、香菜、萝卜、卷心菜、甜菜、金蓟、茴香、芫荽、芸香、莳萝、小茴香、辣椒、八角、胡萝卜籽。大麦、近岸的鱼。在旱地上觅食的鸟类,小鸟和山鸟:椋鸟、鸫鸟、黑鸟、鹧鸪、鹪鹩;在葡萄园捕获的小鸟,在其塔内喂养的鸽子。在深海鱼类中,刺魟和[电鳐也有同样的效果,还有鳎目鱼、青鱼;较大的动物和鸟类,宰杀后一天内食用;如果肉质鲜嫩,就加盐吃盐肉。] 多汁的水果,无花果干与核桃、开心果、微苦的杏仁。橄榄具有一定的减肥效果。白葡萄酒和淡葡萄酒。奶油对瘦身和清淡饮食有帮助,蜂蜜醋更是如此。

[xxiv] Heating foods
加热食品
[25] Boiled wheat and bread made from wheat, including leavened bread. Fenugreek. Sweet dates, sweet apples, sesame, hemp seed, sweet grapes. Celery, rocket, radish, turnip, mustard, cress, carrot. Garlic, [onion, leek, Levant garlic. Mature cheese.] Sweet wines; yellow wines and old wines are even more heating.
[25] 煮熟的小麦和用小麦做的面包,包括发面面包。葫芦巴。甜枣,甜苹果,芝麻,麻籽,甜葡萄。芹菜、火箭、萝卜、萝卜、芥末、水芹、胡萝卜。大蒜,[洋葱,韭菜,黎凡特大蒜。熟奶酪。]甜酒;黄酒和老酒更有热量。

[xxv] Cooling foods
冷却食品
[25] Barley, however cooked; broomcorn millet. Truffles, well-cooked gourd, melons, watermelons, gherkins, cucumbers. Plums, sycomore figs, acid grapes, astringent raisins, astringent apples, acid pomegranates. Lettuce, endives, purslane, myrtle berries, water, watery wine. White, austere, thick and new wines are noticeably cooling, as is vinegar. Midway berween heating and cooling are 'washed' loaves, frumenty, wine-flavoured grapes.
[25] 大麦,无论如何煮熟;栗子。松露,煮熟的葫芦,甜瓜,西瓜,小黄瓜,黄瓜。李子、无花果、酸葡萄、涩葡萄干、涩苹果、酸石榴。莴苣、韭菜、马齿苋、桃金娘浆果、水酒。白色的、朴素的、厚重的和新的葡萄酒明显地冷却,醋也是如此。在加热和冷却之间的中间地带是 "洗过的 "面包、富隆蒂、葡萄酒味的葡萄。

[xxvi] Foods that dry
干燥的食物
[26] Lentils. Cabbage, which for this reason also clouds the eyes, unless the eyes as a whole are particularly moist; cabbage stalk is not as drying as the leaf. In the case of other vegetables, the stalk is drier than the rest. Radishes, turnips, mustard, linseed. Bitter vetch, twice boiled and thoroughly sweetened in water, becomes a drying food.
White foods are better, and what is baked and fried; also foods that are dressed with wine and fish sauce are drier than those that are not; also those seasoned with seeds or flavoured with five-spice mixture, caraway, pennyroyal and the like.
[26] 扁豆。卷心菜,由于这个原因,它也会使眼睛变浑浊,除非眼睛整体上特别湿润;卷心菜的茎部不像叶子那样干燥。在其他蔬菜的情况下,茎部比其他部分更干燥。萝卜、萝卜、芥菜、亚麻籽。苦菜,在水中煮两次并彻底变甜,成为一种干燥的食物。
白色的食物比较好,烘烤和油炸的东西也比较好;用酒和鱼酱调味的食物也比没有调味的食物干燥;还有那些用种子调味或用五香粉、荠菜、五香粉等调味的食物。

[xxvii] Foods that moisten
滋润的食物
[27] Boiled barley, gourd, melons, watermelons, gherkins and cucumbers, green walnuts, plums, sycomore figs, mulberries, lettuce, endives, purslane, mallow, blite. Orach is moistening, as is lettuce seed and the seeds from a poppy head, fresh broad bean and chickpea, water.
[27] 煮熟的大麦、葫芦、甜瓜、西瓜、小黄瓜和黄瓜、绿核桃、李子、无花果、桑葚、莴苣、内脏、马齿苋、锦葵、白菜。赭石是滋润的,莴苣种子和罂粟头的种子也是滋润的,新鲜蚕豆和鹰嘴豆,水。

[xxviii] Foods that are easily broken down
容易被分解的食物
[28] Peaches, aubergines, apricots and all fruits if they are not too quickly expelled: hence they should be eaten before other foods, when they will be quickly assimilated and lead the way for other food. If eaten afterwards they are themselves wasted and they waste other food along with themselves.
[28] 桃子、茄子、杏子和所有水果,如果它们没有被过快地排出体外:因此,它们应该在吃其他食物之前吃,因为它们会很快被吸收,并成为其他食物的先导。如果吃完之后,他们自己就被浪费了,他们和自己一起浪费其他食物。

[xxix] Foods that are slow to break down
分解缓慢的食物
[29] Winkles, horn-shells, lobsters, crayfish, crabs [pagouroi], shrimps, fan-mussels: these are recommended to those who fail to absorb their food through excess of bad humours. Boil two or three times in purest water, replacing with new water when the first becomes briny.
[29] 温克尔,角壳,龙虾,小龙虾,螃蟹,虾,扇贝:这些都是不推荐给那些吸收能力差的人的食物,不过这些食物会产生过多的坏体液。在最纯净的水里煮两三次,当第一次的水变咸时用新水代替。

[xxx] Foods that are slow to excrete
排泄较慢的食物
[30] Anything made with pasta and durum wheat Bour is slow to excrete. Roasted broad beans, white bread, lentil without the shell. Brain, spinal marrow, liver, foie gras, heart. Oeufs en cocotte, hardboiled eggs, and even more so fried eggs. Lupins, black-eyed peas, sesame, acorns. Underripe apples and pears, carobs. Sweet wine and particularly astringent wine, and water.
[30] 任何用意大利面和杜伦麦做的东西。烤蚕豆、白面包、无壳扁豆。大脑、脊椎骨、肝脏、鹅肝、心脏。煮蛋、煮鸡蛋,甚至是煎蛋。羽扇豆、黑眼豆、芝麻、橡子。未成熟的苹果和梨,胡桃。甜酒和特别涩的酒,以及水。

[影响神经的食物]
[31] Mulberries, blackberries, juniper berries, hemp seed, dates. Rocket, fenugreek, linseed. Yellow and austere wine. All aromatic wines affect the head and the nerves, while watery wine affects neither. Milk. Plums. Saffron. Walnuts. New wine. Chestnuts. Leeks, onions, garlic. Tarragon. Phoukas.
桑葚、黑莓、杜松子、麻籽、枣。Rocket、葫芦巴、亚麻籽。黄色和朴素的葡萄酒。所有芳香的葡萄酒都会影响头部和神经,而含水的葡萄酒则不会影响两者。牛奶。李子。藏红花。核桃。新酒。栗子。韭菜,洋葱,大蒜。龙蒿。普卡。


未完待续!
上一章

这个系列快完结了,后面可能事情比较多,更新的频率会降一降,到时候会换一个系列,比如拜占庭的外交呀,环境呀之类的。