（书籍翻译）拜占庭的味道：传奇帝国的美食 （第三部分）

作者生平：
          安德鲁·达尔比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典学者、历史学家、语言学家和翻译家，以他关于食物史（尤其是希腊和罗马帝国）的书籍而闻名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德鲁·达尔比的第一本美食书籍，获得了 Runciman（朗西曼）奖，他的第二本书《Dangerous Tastes》在2001年获得了美食作家协会年度美食书籍。他还是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和维纳斯的传记的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本书完整的 CIP 记录可从大英图书馆、美国国会图书馆获得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和装订

Peoples, languages and 'ethnic foods' of Constantinople

君士坦丁堡的民族、语言和“民族食物”

It is easily forgotten to what extent the Byzantine Empire was a multicultural and multilingual state.

          人们很容易忘记拜占庭帝国在多大程度上是一个多元文化和多语言的国家。

In its origin it was the Greek-speaking half of an Empire founded by Latin speakers. Its founding marks the moment when Christianity became the state religion of the Roman Empire. Constantine's mother Helena was Christian and he himself was baptized on his deathbed. All his successors were Christian with the single exception of Julian. Constantinople was thus the capital of a great Christian empire with a magnificent inheritance of pagan literature, art and philosophy.

          它的起源是由讲拉丁语和讲希腊语各占一半的群体所建立的帝国。它的建立标志着基督教成为罗马帝国国教。君士坦丁的母亲海伦娜是基督徒，他本人在临终前接受了洗礼。他的所有继任者都是基督徒，除了朱利安。因此，君士坦丁堡是一个伟大的基督教帝国的首都，拥有丰富的异教文学、艺术和哲学遗产。

After the division in 286, Latin, though the mother tongue of only a small proportion of the Eastern Empire's subjects, remained for some hundreds of years an official language of administration in the East. Latin, or rather the Romance speech of the Balkans, was still the language of command in the Byzantine army. So we are not surprised to find names of foods that seem to have Latin roots. There is boukellaton (Latin bucellatum), the ring-shaped dry loaf typical of the rations for which the auxiliary armies depended on their commanders. There is phouska (Latin posca), the watery, vinegary wine that was typical of soldiers' drinking in early Byzantine times. There is konditon (Latin conditum), the famous spiced wine aperitif of late Rome and Constantinople. Then there are rodakina, peaches, whose Greek name seems to describe these fruits as 'rosy' (Greek rodos'rose') but actually derives from the old Latin variety name duracina 'clingstone’.

            在 286 年分裂之后，拉丁语虽然只是东方帝国一小部分臣民的母语，但数百年来一直是东方的官方行政语言。拉丁语，或者更确切地说是巴尔干地区的罗曼语，仍然是拜占庭军队的指挥语言。因此，我们对发现似乎有拉丁词根的食物名称并不感到惊讶。 有 boukellaton（拉丁文 bucellatum），一种环形干面包，是辅助军队指挥官的典型口粮。有 phouska （拉丁语 posca），一种含水的、带有醋味的酒，这是拜占庭早期士兵饮用的典型饮品。 有konditon（拉丁语conditum），罗马晚期和君士坦丁堡著名的五香开胃酒。然后是 rodakina，桃子，其希腊名称似乎将这些水果描述为“玫瑰色”（希腊语 rodos'rose'），但实际上源自古老的拉丁品种名称 duracina 'clingstone'。

All the peoples of the Empire were naturally represented in the population of Constantinople. Some of its inhabitants had come from much further afield, as observed in about 1096 by a participant in the First Crusade: 'In this city are Greeks, Bulgarians, Alans, Comans, Pigmaticans, Italians, Venetians, Romanians, Dacians, English, Amalfitans, even Turks; many heathen peoples, Jews and proselytes, Cretans and Arabs and people of all nations come together there."

          君士坦丁堡的人口自然而然地代表了帝国的所有人民。 它的一些居民来自更远的地方，大约在 1096 年，第一次十字军东征的参与者观察到：“在这个城市里有希腊人、保加利亚人、阿兰人、科曼人、猪人、意大利人、威尼斯人、罗马尼亚人、达契亚人、英国人、阿马尔菲人 ，甚至是土耳其人； 许多异教民族，犹太人和改信者，克里特人和阿拉伯人以及各国人民都聚集在那里。”

Russians were naturally well-represented, for Constantinople was the source of their Christian culture. So Ignatius of 5molensk, member of a party of Russian pilgrims, was able to find homely food and familiar company at the monastery of 5t John the Baptist: 'On the first of July we went to the Monastery of 5t John Prodromus, which means "the Forerunner", and worshipped. The Russians who live there entertained us splendidly.' North Europeans, including English, were also at home in the city, some of them as mercenary troops enrolled in the famous Varangian Guard, others as traders. It was these, we must suppose, who introduced the novel delicacy of rengai 'herrings' to late medieval Constantinople. Arabs and other Muslims had a settled community in Constantinople and achieved freedom of worship by treaty in the course of the twelfth century. Arab historians tell of the day on which Islamic worship was first practised publicly in the city.

          The ship brought a preacher, a pulpit, several muezzin and Koran reciters. Their entrance into Constantinople was a day noteworthy in the history of the religion ... The preacher mounted the pulpit and pronounced the liturgical prayer in honour of the Abbasid Caliphate, in presence of all the faithful and of the resident merchants.

          俄罗斯人自然有很好的代表性，因为君士坦丁堡是他们基督教文化的源泉。 因此，摩棱斯克的伊格内修斯（Ignatius）是俄罗斯朝圣者团体的成员，能够在施洗者约翰修道院找到家常食物和熟悉的陪伴：“七月一日，我们去了修道院约翰普罗德罗姆斯，这意味着” 先行者”，并供奉。 住在那里的俄罗斯人给我们带来了极好的娱乐。包括英国人在内的北欧人也住在这座城市，其中一些人作为雇佣兵加入了著名的瓦兰吉卫队，其他人则作为商人。我们必须假设，正是这些人将rengai “鲱鱼”的新奇美味引入了中世纪晚期的君士坦丁堡。 阿拉伯人和其他穆斯林在君士坦丁堡有一个定居社区，并在 12 世纪通过条约实现了礼拜自由。阿拉伯历史学家讲述了伊斯兰崇拜首次在该市公开进行的那一天。

          “这艘船带来了一位传教士、一个讲坛、几个宣礼员和古兰经朗诵者。 他们进入君士坦丁堡是宗教历史上值得注意的一天……传教士登上讲坛并在所有信徒和居民商人面前宣布了礼仪祈祷，以纪念阿拔斯哈里发。”

The delicacies that came 'from the city of Mosul' were brought by Arab merchants (actually, they came from far to the east of Mosul, but it was at Mosul that they emerged into Byzantine knowledge); they included 'the best kind of cinnamon' according to the eleventh-century dietician Simeon Seth. This may be the earliest reference to the cinnamon of Sri Lanka.

          来自“摩苏尔城”的美食是由阿拉伯商人带来的（实际上，它们来自摩苏尔东部很远的地方，但他们是在摩苏尔才进入拜占庭知识的）； 根据 11 世纪的营养师 Simeon Seth 的说法，它们包括“最好的肉桂”。 这可能是最早提到斯里兰卡的肉桂。

How much blending of local traditions went into the Byzantine culinary melting-pot? There is plenty of evidence that the blending took place. We shall encounter some fine flavours inherited from early Greece, notably the fish (kephalos 'grey mullet', labrax 'bass' and many others) that were just as important to the gourmets of Constantinople as they had been to those of Athens. We shall find tastes introduced long ago from the early Greek colonies: garos, for example, the fermented fish sauce first encountered as a product of the northern Black Sea coast, later to become ubiquitous in the food repertoire of the Romans, by whom it was more often called liquamen. Some favourite foods indicate by their names that the Romans of the early Empire had brought them into fashion: laktenta 'sucking pigs'; konditon 'spiced wine'. A new focus on Asia Minor, natural consequence of the establishment of Constantinople as Imperial capital, leads to important gastronomic discoveries, such as the gazelle, the 'deer commonly called gazelia' noted by Simeon Seth (On the Properties of Foods p. 33). For the same reason the Black Sea and its great rivers became the sources of new fish specialities with strange northern names, including the sturgeons mourzoulin and berzitikon and their caviar khabiarin.

          拜占庭烹饪大熔炉融合了多少当地传统？有大量证据表明这些传统发生了混合。我们将遇到一些从早期希腊继承下来的精美风味，尤其是对君士坦丁堡美食家和雅典美食家一样重要的鱼类（kephalos 'grey mullet'、labrax 'bass' 及其他）。我们会发现很久以前从早期希腊殖民地引入的口味：例如，发酵鱼露，首先是作为黑海北部海岸的产品出现，后来在罗马人的食物中无处不在， 更常称为 liquamen。一些最喜欢的食物的名字表明早期帝国的罗马人已经将它们带入时尚：laktenta 'sucking pigs'； konditon '五香酒'。对小亚细亚的新关注是建立君士坦丁堡作为帝国首都的自然结果，导致了重要的美食发现，例如瞪羚，Simeon Seth 指出的“通常称为瞪羚的鹿”。出于同样的原因，黑海及其大河成为具有奇怪北方名称的新鱼类特产的来源，包括鲟鱼 mourzoulin 和 berzitikon 以及它们的鱼子酱 khabiarin。

The end result was a massive amount of cultural exchange. The paximadia in Justin 1's knapsack were a standby that was well known Empire-wide, to judge by later derivatives of the name: these extend from Venetian pasimata, Croatian peksimet and Romanian pesmet to Turkish beksemad and Arabic bashmat, baqsimat. The lucanica sausages that early Roman soldiers learnt to appreciate while on campaign in Lucania (southern Italy), in due course inherited by Byzantium from the Roman army, were transmitted in their turn to Bulgaria (lukanka), Greece and Cyprus (loukanika), Spain (longaniza) and eventually even Brazil (linguira).' Several important foods were introduced from the east after Egypt and Syria became Muslim lands, and these new foods naturally have Arabic names: mazizania 'aubergines', nerantzia 'oranges', spanaki 'spinach'. As Arab power expanded, much of Byzantium's eastern trade came under Arab control; hence the Arabic names of foods, especially spices, became well known in later Constantinople, sometimes supplanting the native name, as did nanakhoua for older ammi 'ajowan'. Eastern spices and aromatics that were wholly unknown in the earlier Mediterranean include iasmion 'jasmine' and koubebe 'cubebs'.

          最终的结果是大量文化的交流。贾斯汀1号背包里的坚果是全帝国都知道的备用品，从后来的名字衍生来判断:这些衍生词从威尼斯的 pasimata、克罗地亚的 peksimet 和罗马尼亚的 pesmet 延伸到土耳其的 beksemad 和阿拉伯的 bashmat、baqsimat。早期罗马士兵在卢卡尼亚（意大利南部）的战役中学会品尝的卢卡尼卡香肠，在适当的时候被拜占庭从罗马军队那里继承下来，依次传到保加利亚（卢坎卡）、希腊和塞浦路斯（卢卡尼卡）、西班牙（香肠），最终甚至是巴西（linguira）。埃及和叙利亚成为穆斯林国家后，从东方引进了几种重要的食物，这些新食物自然有阿拉伯名字：mazizania '茄子'、nerantzia '橙子'、spanaki '菠菜'。随着阿拉伯势力的扩张，拜占庭东部的大部分贸易都在阿拉伯人的控制之下。因此，食物的阿拉伯名称，尤其是香料，在后来的君士坦丁堡变得广为人知，有时取代了当地名称，就像 nanakhoua 为较老的 ammi 'ajowan' 命名的那样。在早期地中海完全不为人知的东方香料和芳香剂包括 iasmion '茉莉花' 和 koubebe 'cubebs'。

未完待续（拜占庭印章系列也在持续更新！！！）